'86 oopsie Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Due the lift or wheelin' to hard:confused:, my tranny mounts have torn out of the body of my car. Has this ever happened to anyone, if so how did you fix it?? Thanks, Nate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott in Bellingham Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Due the lift or wheelin' to hard:confused:' date=' my tranny mounts have torn out of the body of my car. Has this ever happened to anyone, if so how did you fix it?? Thanks, Nate[/quote'] no. now is it rusted out or is it ripped?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'86 oopsie Posted September 15, 2008 Author Share Posted September 15, 2008 Its ripped,no rust at all...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbone Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 Explain wheeling to hard. Were you jumping it? You would have to do something pretty crazy to rip the tranny mounts out of the body. What kind of lift do you have on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bheinen74 Posted September 15, 2008 Share Posted September 15, 2008 how are the motor mounts? I have tore them both out on a ej22 before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
'86 oopsie Posted September 15, 2008 Author Share Posted September 15, 2008 (edited) No jumping, just average wheeling. I have an AA 4" lift, and the bolts through the "triangle" parts that support Tranny and control arm stabilizer have pulled out of the body...... and taken part of the underside of my car with them. Edited September 15, 2008 by '86 oopsie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 16, 2008 Share Posted September 16, 2008 Metal fatigue probably. I would wager they got loose and you wheeled too far before inspecting and tightening all your lift blocks. Under normal circumstances, with the bolts all tight, that would be nearly impossible to accomplish. But if the bolts work loose a bit they can apply forces that the body wasn't designed to handle when they bounce in the holes and pull sideways ect. You should check and tighten everything after every run, and several times durring the first outing with a new lift, or modifications. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rguyver Posted September 17, 2008 Share Posted September 17, 2008 I had to do a similar fix to the rear when the lift bolts broke out of my car you will have to find the spot right over the bolt hole in side of the car and cut a hole in the floor big enough to get at the top of the bolt and re weld a nut in then patch up the floor , there will be a couple layers to cut through . good luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
torxxx Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 easy fix I just did this last weekend. broke both bolts. easy way take a lag bolt and run it up through the lift block and crossmember hole through the floor so u know where to air hammer. then trim out the metal on the floor with an airhammer it has a captive nut (junk piece of metal thats threaded, isnt even a nut) I replaced the bolt from bolt head on top with the nut on the underside so if it breaks or comes lose at least the bolt stays in there and keeps stuff aligned. He most likely didnt do anything wrong. It happens with the lifts. you are adding a 4 inch longer bolt that flexes and the captive nut is very very mild steel. fix should take bout 20 min a side. I used a 5 1/2 inch long bolt 7/16 diameter. pm me if u need anymore help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 20, 2008 Share Posted September 20, 2008 He most likely didnt do anything wrong. It happens with the lifts. you are adding a 4 inch longer bolt that flexes and the captive nut is very very mild steel. You are correct - long bolts put high stress loads on the capture nuts - they were not designed for this and that should be taken into account when properly designing a lift. It's a poor design. On all my lifts I have used the original bolt's to secure the blocks to the body and then separate bolts to secure the suspension components to the blocks. This avoids almost all the unnecessary stressing of the capture nuts and the uni-body. On 4" lifts this is super easy as the lift blocks are just 2" sections of 2"x4"x1/4" wall channel. I gusset the channel on the open sides as well leaving an opening to slip the bolts through and get a ratchet/breaker bar on them. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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