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Crazy overheating problem amongst other things


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This is the 93 ea82 in a Loyale. I got this car a year ago now with a major oil leak that the owner told me was from a blown head gasket. I ran the car and yes it leaked oil all over the ground, so being the adventurous type I just pulled the engine. I replaced the cam seals, the thermostate and the timing belts and dropped it back in. I couldn't get the timing to come in and was just two marks off the right degree mark. I ran the car on the road for five minutes and it overheated and after a few checks and seeing bubbles in the water pulled the engine again and replaced the head gaskets. I was really careful about the timing belts again but again the distributor won't quite make it (moving it a tooth didn't help as it was then out the other way). I ran the car on the road for about ten minutes and as I started thinking all was well it overheated again. Help!!

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No bubbles, just nice clean glycol. It took about a gallon and three quarters to fill.

 

YOu may have air bubbles, a T-stat installed backwards, or both.

 

A clogged or decrepid radiator usually showd up under load, where as a sudden overheat would be from the other two.

 

 

nipper

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Can you install the thermostat upside down in these? I just put it in the same way I found it. I would consider this a sudden overheat as there appears to be no cooling at all.

 

A easy test is to remove it and let it run without the thermo stat. It's easy to install it backwards in any car. Also when you remove it compare it to the old one, do they look exactly alike?

 

Are your cooling fans coming on or functioning?

 

nipper

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The electric fan is not working. I'll pull the thermostat out and see what happens. I must be getting old because it never occurred to me to try that.

 

 

Thats ok i dont remeber if you have one or two fans on this. If the fans arent working ...... your going to boil over.

 

nipper

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T-stat should be spring down. Aftermarket t-stats often are smaller that OE so those are easy to install upside down. OE usually cause a fit issue when installed upside down, as they are too large to fit that way.

 

If you put in a over a gallon and a half you should be full, however small bubbles can cause overheating. I usually wait until it gets hot once, while hot stab the throttle a few times to circulate coolant while the t-stat is open and some more bubbles come out.

 

Otherwise you are up against a radiator...(overheats while under a load)

or a fan switch (overheats at idle, though tough to do with a mechanical fan running.)

 

While it "overheating" put you hand in the air flowing from the radiator and see if it hot, to check if the radiator releases heat to the air, if not it is most likely too plugged up.

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I just talked to the guy I bought this thing from and he said that it never overheated when he had it and that it just leaked oil. This leads me to believe that something else may be causing the problem. I changed the timing belts (twice now) and then the problem arose. Like I said the engine cannot be timed to 21 degrees but only to about 18 or so and then the distributor hits the stop.

Just some more food for thought. Thanks for the help so far!!!!

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I assume it has a water valve but don't know for sure. I have the factory manual and the Haynes manual and I'm pretty sure I did it right. I've done it twice now and the only thing that even seemed odd to me was that they don't tell you which end of the engine their looking at when they tell you which way to rotate it when you install the second belt. I figured that it was from the rear as everything else on a car including engine rotation is from the rear looking forward. Am I right here?

 

The engine does run rough and does not have the power it should. It has plenty of power on the highway but not on the hills.

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As a general rule, all automotive engine references are as viewed from the front of the car. Regardless, this should not affect rotating the engine 360degrees and aligning the second belt. Also, you did use the center of the 3 scribed lines on the flywheel, and NOT anything associated with ignition timing marks, right?

 

Your car has fuel injection, controlled by the ECU. Did you "tell" the ECU not to fiddle with the ignition timing while you were fiddling with it? This is done by connecting the green single wire connectors that are next to your wiper motor. Remember to disconnect these when done. Also, make sure black single-wire connectors in the same location are not connected.

 

I am reasonably sure that there is no water valve in the EA82-series heater system. I believe that it is mixed-air only.

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Yes, i had it right on the center mark on both belts with the notches in the cam gears aligned with the marks on the covers I rotated the engine 360 between belt installation. As far as the ECU goes I didn't touch that nor did I see in the books anything about that. I had the engine out on the bench.

 

The book says to rotate 360 degrees clockwise but I can't remember for for sure if I did this from the front or rear of the engine. Would it even run if I did it wrong?

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It's not easy to properly fill the coolant in the EA82's. Because you have had the engine out several times I am leaning toward there being air pockets that you have not bled out of the system. This will cause overheating. Try filling the radiator on a slant with the cap pointing uphill and the rest of the car sloped down. Massage the upper and lower radiator hoses and run the engine with the cap off while you do it. Keep filling till it won't take another drop. Drive it around a bit till it's at operating temp then repeat the procedure again when it's cooled off.

 

EA82's do not have a water valve on the heater core. Those went out with the EA81's. The core is always in the cooling system and the air is simply directed through or around the core.

 

GD

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yup im rusty on the older cars, but they all fill the same. The trick is to have the car running when you are filling the cooling system, and SLOWLY add coolant. Wait for a surge of coolant out of the radiator, that will be the T-stat opening. Wait for that to settle down, and SLOWLY add more coolant.

 

i bet your airlocked

 

nipper

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I doubt your timing is off, but try this method instead:

 

1. Drivers side cam mark straight up.

 

2. Passenger side cam mark straight down.

 

3. Install both belts. Make sure to compensate for where the tension will be applied to the belt and be sure to have any slack at the tensioning point.

 

4. Position the #1 cylinder at TDC on the comp. stroke using your finger over the plug hole while you rotate the engine.

 

5. Rotate the crank BACK to 20 degrees BTDC.

 

6. Install distributor such that the rotor is pointing at the plug tower you wish to be #1 (it doesn't matter which one you choose).

 

7. Install wires counter-clockwise in the order 1,3,2,4 starting with the one you picked in step 6.

 

GD

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today I pulled the timing belt covers and verified that the valve timing was on. I found that it doesn't matter if you turn the engine clockwise or counter between belts. I still couldn't get the ignition timing on the twenty degree mark and finally modified the distributor slot so that it would move to the mark. Cruising down the road at 55 it maintains temperature and obviously doesn't have a head gasket problem since it ran for over an hour. The temp is right on the edge though and will still heat up if its run hard. I'm going to wire the electric fan to run full time and see if that helps plus flush the radiator. If that helps even more then I'll figure the thing is worth spending the money on for a tune up. If it heats up again I'm selling it for parts!!

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