1997reduxe Posted March 18, 2009 Share Posted March 18, 2009 Yeah i just got it done. Runs great. Wonderful! I can only recommend two things mainly: 1. Buy a new hydraulic tensioner so you don't need to compress old one. 2. Replace all parts possible, including water pump. 3. (okay, three) get a chain wrench like they recommend on this list. I don't think they sell the one at Harbor Freight mentioned here anymore. i checked their store and the website and it's seemed to have disappeared. '97 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickb21 Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 This is a great thread, very helpful as I'm about to tackle my 02 TB. Two questions regarding the tensioner... As I understand it, post-97 you need to use the "new" syle tensioner, unless you use the bracket for the older one. I will assume this is true for 2000+? Like others I'll use a mix of OE and ebay parts. My tensioner has acted up in the past, so I will replace it. Any issues with the tensioner in the ebay kits, any particular brand to look for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 The last Ebay new tensioner I purchased was from theimportexperts and it was NTN. Seemed like a decent part. Their bearings usually are GMB. Actually I haven't opened the latest box from them but that's what they have been shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickb21 Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 Awesome, thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted March 20, 2009 Share Posted March 20, 2009 Used the kit tonight for a 95 2.2 - all GMB bearings. Some in a GNB box, some in a PCI box, all say GMB on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simbey1982 Posted April 8, 2009 Author Share Posted April 8, 2009 went with the import experts kit....will report back with any problems...thank you for the great discussion... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Got my kit from the same guys. Everything looked great. All I suggest is you use your original bolts for the idlers and torque everything down according to spec while your in there. Timing belt FSM here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 I don't recall ever getting bolts for anything but the special one for the tensioner. But I usually reuse the ones that I take off anyways. And I have never seen lock washers on the bolts. Where did they come from? I have installed a lot of those kits but I get my own belt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 They came from in the box lol. To begin with they were to short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) I've probably bought a dozen or so kits from theimportexperts and I don't recall ever getting any bolts like I said. And why in the world lock washers? I'd be interested in hearing if anyone else received bolts, the correct length bolts, or lock washers. I'm thinking yours was a fluke. Like I said usually I have them send the idlers, usually an extra idler or two (especially the splined one), and no TB so they may not just throw the bolts in mine. Edited April 8, 2009 by davebugs typing abilities Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Hm...interesting. Those two smooth pullies, are they identical? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Yes they should be identical. They ship them both the same (and the sturdier version) so that folks don't put them in the wrong place. Occasionally I buy a car where folks have re-installed the OEM's and switched positions and the one fails that is now on the top that should be on the bottom. Skip actually had posted a pic a while ago with an engine that he had with the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ericem Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 hopefully they are identical they looked exactly the same the originals were rough and noisy not much play though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 I know now Subaru ships the double row for both positions. I was just wondering about the ones in that pic it's hard to tell they look like they might be both single row? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 i've gotten the bolts before as well, they're unnecessary, ignore them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 I know now Subaru ships the double row for both positions. I was just wondering about the ones in that pic it's hard to tell they look like they might be both single row? If you put them beside the ones that you take off they certainly look like "double row" rahter than the bottom "single row" idler. Atleast to me they have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Will someone please explain what you mean by "double row" and "single row." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porcupine73 Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Single row and double row are types of ball bearing setups. Single row has just that, one row of ball bearings. Double uses two rows for more load carrying capability. Subaru used to have a pulley with a single row on the top and a double row for the bottom pulley, but the single row bearing pulley was later superceded by the double row and the double row is now used in both positions. The single row bearing pulley cannot handle the load long term if used in the spot where the double row bearing pulley is required. Like in this pic, the black pulley top left has two rows of ball bearings. The orange one lower left has just one row. examples http://www.kilianbearings.com/single-row-ball-bearings.shtml http://www.kilianbearings.com/double-row-ball-bearings.shtml Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted April 8, 2009 Share Posted April 8, 2009 Well live and learn--I never knew that. Thanks, porc! Any idea what year they changed over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Petersubaru Posted April 10, 2009 Share Posted April 10, 2009 Well live and learn--I never knew that. Thanks, porc! Any idea what year they changed over? ..I don't think they actually automaticly changed over by sending both the same pulleys...but when looking at one of the subaru sellers on line, the upper and lower pulleys are the same when only applied to the 2004-2009 Turbo...which leads to me to ask...are the fastening bolts the same for each bearing, be it single or double row Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.