Putting another on the road, a few quick Q's

[Niku-Sama]

first off the cars back together, no ticking, slight noise from the exhaust, and noise comming from the passenger side timing cover. louder when the timing cover is off, i think i flipped the belt over and its being a bit noisy and wearing the other way because its a bit hard but no cracks and stuff yet, i just didnt have the money for the belts when i had it open and they are easy to get too.

 

so some pics:

its straight and needs a good cleaning....

 

i think my camera is dieing because the outside pics look like crap, will have to look into the settings the exposure may be way off....any way.

 

most of the rust is on the back hatch, theres a spec here and there on the body that i am going to hit and the front fenders along the edge but the j yard has a wagon i may pull replacements off of. but its not bad for $300 plus about $60 in parts/seals and $120 to title, plate and tag (damn 7 year rule) the car

 

so i do have a few questions...

this is a 1990 Loyale Turbo with Full time 4WD

 

i was curious the sensor on the top of the thermostat housing with an injector style connector, which temp sensor is this? is it the one that relays temp back to the computer and it adjusts mixture according to temp?

 

then i had to get in under the dash to replace the hood release i noticed a few things.

 

under the dash there were these black and green connectors, both male and female ends to one another down under the wheel unhooked like so:

 

what are these for and should they be hooked up?

i take it the white connector is some sort of service connector

 

then theres this funkyness....i dont know where to start with this:

 

is this a common thing to do? the grey wire is going into the herness and the one missing is the fuel pump

 

then i found a funky box:

 

doesent look factory and judging from the "Made in U.S.A." its not

the writing off to the side on the left edge of the picture just says programming switches, up is on down is off. my best guess is cruise control but then it still has all the factory cruise stuff in it

[Bucky92]

those green and black connectors are for running your codes and then erasing stored codes..should be ..but they are usually under the hood on EA82s.

The grey wire ..not sure...but the other box looks like it could be an old alarm system or remote start system and the adjust is for sensitivity...that would be my guess...which might also tie into the mystery grey wire.

 

BTW Nice wagon.. I have a thing for white wagons..especially EA82 style.

[Niku-Sama]

oh ok so one set i hook up to get the light to blink another to clear the memory. i guess thats easier than turning an unmarked screw on the side of the ecu like on my other cars in the past.

 

one thing i forgot to ask, i am gonna fix the rust spot on the back hatch but i was gonna ask, should i just fix the one spot and do it the same as the body color or would you think it'd look good if i did that whole recessed area arround the plate in black, like a semi gloss to keep it OEM like

[Turbone]

oh ok so one set i hook up to get the light to blink another to clear the memory. i guess thats easier than turning an unmarked screw on the side of the ecu like on my other cars in the past.

 

one thing i forgot to ask, i am gonna fix the rust spot on the back hatch but i was gonna ask, should i just fix the one spot and do it the same as the body color or would you think it'd look good if i did that whole recessed area arround the plate in black, like a semi gloss to keep it OEM like

 

That might look interesting with the whole plate area black.

Heres the link for reading the codes...

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49918

[Niku-Sama]

yea i dont have a CEL, the battery was out for a long while and it didnt have any when i bought it so i am gonna assume everything is ok for the most part, the coolant sensor that controls the guage may be shot but giving a good signal to the computer not causing a light though.

 

and i am gonna attribute the quick stumble i get when i first step on the gas when i start it to re-learning because thats the only time it does it.

 

you still lookin for a hood?

[Turbone]

I Still have sometime before I need the hood.

I always wait until the last minute to get things done

[zyewdall]

those green and black connectors are for running your codes and then erasing stored codes..should be ..but they are usually under the hood on EA82s.

 

At some point they moved them to under the dash instead. i think my '89 had them under the dash, though I may be remembering a '91 that I took an engine out of.

[Niku-Sama]

I Still have sometime before I need the hood.

I always wait until the last minute to get things done

 

well lemme know, i think this comming week or next i am gonna go to the yard and pull that white hood thats wass there and swap it with mine, the paint on mine is funky but its straight with some minor things.

[GlTurbo1987]

those connectors are in the right place.... my 87 has them there too

[Niku-Sama]

alright i got it insured and had its maiden voyage today.

 

sprung a new oil leak but its a valve cover, no big, i think it sprung because i now have volume and pressure instead of just pressure.

i also need to get the exhaust fixed because it comes inside, it'll be finr when i can have the windows open but when it gets colder its gonna be a wee bit of a problem.

driving home on I5 north from everett i about fell asleep because i had the windows up and was listening to whats going on, hopefully it'll help some of the turbo lag aswell

[Turbone]

alright i got it insured and had its maiden voyage today.

 

sprung a new oil leak but its a valve cover, no big, i think it sprung because i now have volume and pressure instead of just pressure.

i also need to get the exhaust fixed because it comes inside, it'll be finr when i can have the windows open but when it gets colder its gonna be a wee bit of a problem.

driving home on I5 north from everett i about fell asleep because i had the windows up and was listening to whats going on, hopefully it'll help some of the turbo lag aswell

 

Depends on where the leak is.

If its after the turbo, it wont have any effect on lag.

[Niku-Sama]

its before, under the heat sheilds on the passenger side just comming out of the head, its also shoothing hot air over the power steering lines that run along that rail too

[Turbone]

its before, under the heat sheilds on the passenger side just comming out of the head, its also shoothing hot air over the power steering lines that run along that rail too

 

I had my header break right at the point where they meet.

But I lost ALL boost when that happened :-\

Hopefully yours isnt in the same place.

I might have another one floating around in my shed.

[Niku-Sama]

its a new pipe so i am hoping i can find some place that'll peel back the heat sheilds and weld up the crack and wrap it up again.

 

i still get boost but some times i have to wind it up to 3500rpm for it to really kick in.

[GeneralDisorder]

its a new pipe so i am hoping i can find some place that'll peel back the heat sheilds and weld up the crack and wrap it up again.

 

Better to get a used header probably. For starters the "places" that would do such a thing.... well.... aren't the places I would want doing it if you know what I mean. Welding sheet metal is not easy and the heat sheild can't be "peeled" - it has to be cut away in sections (sometimes three or four peices), the leak repaired, and then the heat sheild carefully peiced back together. I just did it for an EJ22 header that was cracked right at the bend under the driver's side head. No big deal for me personally, but I have a lot of welding experience and some with sheet goods as well. Exhaust shops are (mostly) the last place on earth I would go to find a decent welder

 

Also, welding on it will cause work-hardening of the steel in the header - it will probably crack again right next to the weld. The only way to insure that doesn't happen would be to anneal that whole section to releive all the stress and work hardening of the welding process.

 

What I'm telling you is that you should take Rob up on his offer of a solid used header - a proper repair to the one you have would cost more than what he will charge you and you are assured that you will only be R&R'ing the thing one time.

 

GD

[Niku-Sama]

we'll see. moneys tighter than i thought it was gonna be and i have a funky sound out of the passenger side head too but i guess it could be partly due to the fact that the exhaust header on that side is the cracked one.

 

i guess it could be caused by the crack because every poof out from behind the sheild is when i hear the noise in the head, its not like a lifter tick its like somethings loose, i wonder if its been cracked for a while and it burned a valve.

 

dont hear it when its cold though so i donno runs really good otherwise, i am gonna change the oil really early (500mi) because i had the oil system open, the previous owner seafoamed and MMOd the hell out of the engine trying to get the tick to stop and now that it has pressure and volume i am sure its knocked alot of junk loose, might try some 15/40 aswell see if the noise goes away/lessens when warmed with something a little thicker when its warm

 

i guess at the same time the exhaust leak is pretty loud when warm too

Edited June 10, 2009 by Niku-Sama

[Loyale 2.7 Turbo]

Nice Subie! ... I Like It!

 

 

...i dont know where to start with this:

...

 

The Added Wire Should be the one Needed in the New Stereo Units: a Permanent Hot Wire (+) that is Always "ON" to Keep the Radio Stations and Other Presets in Memory.

Is Good Idea to Start There, Removing it from the Front of the Panel... you can Weld it to a Hot Wire at the Panel`s Back: Be Careful to Weld it AFTER the Fuse.

Then Fix the Fuelp Pump Fuse: The Engine Starts Without it? ... if So, Check for any "Bridge" that could be done at the Panel`s Back.

Good Luck!

[Niku-Sama]

Nice Subie! ... I Like It!

 

The Added Wire Should be the one Needed in the New Stereo Units: a Permanent Hot Wire (+) that is Always "ON" to Keep the Radio Stations and Other Presets in Memory.

Is Good Idea to Start There, Removing it from the Front of the Panel... you can Weld it to a Hot Wire at the Panel`s Back: Be Careful to Weld it AFTER the Fuse.

Then Fix the Fuelp Pump Fuse: The Engine Starts Without it? ... if So, Check for any "Bridge" that could be done at the Panel`s Back.

Good Luck!

 

yep it runs fine, idles a little low some times but after i drive it the idle evens out

 

I had my header break right at the point where they meet.

But I lost ALL boost when that happened :-\

Hopefully yours isnt in the same place.

I might have another one floating around in my shed.

 

i missed the floating arround in the shed part, how much do you think you'd want for it?

i've looked at removing the pipe, seems like a huge pain in the rump roast, i can only see 2 of the 4 bolts that it bolts to the turbo with, do you have to take the turbo out with it?

[Niku-Sama]

well i think i am gonna wait on the hood and grab the fenders, they are rotted worse than i thoght and fenders keep dissappearing from the junk yard pretty rapidly lately.

 

also the temp isnt ever getting past 1/4 up the guage and the fan isnt comming on so i am thinkin the thermostat is stuck or missing, what is a good temp thermostat for something like this? 160F? or is it possible the coolant sensor sending to the guage is shot?

[one eye]

well i think i am gonna wait on the hood and grab the fenders, they are rotted worse than i thoght and fenders keep dissappearing from the junk yard pretty rapidly lately.

 

also the temp isnt ever getting past 1/4 up the guage and the fan isnt comming on so i am thinkin the thermostat is stuck or missing, what is a good temp thermostat for something like this? 160F? or is it possible the coolant sensor sending to the guage is shot?

 

 

This is off the main topic but where at "up North" are you?

 

 

Jeff

[GeneralDisorder]

well i think i am gonna wait on the hood and grab the fenders, they are rotted worse than i thoght and fenders keep dissappearing from the junk yard pretty rapidly lately.

 

also the temp isnt ever getting past 1/4 up the guage and the fan isnt comming on so i am thinkin the thermostat is stuck or missing, what is a good temp thermostat for something like this? 160F? or is it possible the coolant sensor sending to the guage is shot?

 

190 F is the stock thermostat.

 

You need to watch how you treat this thing. Seriously you are cruising for major destruction - high viscocity oil and now a 30 degree drop in the thermostat? Do you have any idea what the tollerances are on these engines? :-\

 

GD

[Niku-Sama]

This is off the main topic but where at "up North" are you?

 

 

Jeff

 

not quite as north as you but close.

I'm in Arlington for the moment, if i cant find a job soon i dont know where i'm gonna wind up. thats a long story for another time though, i run up to Mt Vernon every now and again, check out thrift shops and been trying to figure out school

 

190 F is the stock thermostat.

 

You need to watch how you treat this thing. Seriously you are cruising for major destruction - high viscocity oil and now a 30 degree drop in the thermostat? Do you have any idea what the tollerances are on these engines? :-\

 

GD

 

well considering its a 20 year old engine based off of older technology than that i am pretty sure the tolerances arent too tight.

10/40 isnt exactly what i would call high viscosity oil, what would you use, straight 40?

 

and then given the temp problems these have to begin with and then add its a turbo motor with a single row radiator 160/170 might not be a bad idea. pretty sure it might acually warm up then.

[GeneralDisorder]

well considering its a 20 year old engine based off of older technology than that i am pretty sure the tolerances arent too tight

 

Having had more of them apart than you have likely ever seen, I am "pretty sure" (damn positive in fact) that the tollerances are VERY tight. An order of magnitude tighter than you'll find in similar vintage american engines. They are rated in hudredths of millimeters. They may be old, but they are of german design.

 

10/40 isnt exactly what i would call high viscosity oil, what would you use, straight 40?

 

The manual calls for 30 weight for good reason. Unless you *need* multi-viscocity oil (probably not this time of year), you shouldn't be running it. Furthermore - 10/40 has WAY too much viscocity modifier in it. A spread that high is only going to cause more wear. And oil that thick will ultimately not lubricate as well. You are going to lose a rod doing stuff like that.

 

and then given the temp problems these have to begin with and then add its a turbo motor with a single row radiator 160/170 might not be a bad idea. pretty sure it might acually warm up then.

 

So you band-aid a temp problem by trying to get an overly taxed radiator to keep it even cooler? The engine is designed to operate at 190 degrees - so is the oil. Not reaching operating temp will cause a lot of issues - 160 is not enough to effectively eliminate condensation from the oil - you need to get it hot enough to flash the water off as vapor.

 

There's good reasons for what the manual sugests. Change it up at your own risk. Many have come before you and found out the hard way.

 

GD

[Ever Victorious]

Hey, I didn't write those last two! Leave me out of this!

[Niku-Sama]

the coolant systems been changed up before i bought it.

it looks like the electric fan was wired to be on all the time and then it was dis connected, the temp guage has never gone past 1/4 the way up. if i pop open the thermostat housing and find there is no thermostat i am going to start low and work my way up, the low temp thermos will be usefull in el paso tx or durring the summer in medford or, depending on where things wind up.

 

if i pop it and i find theres a thermostat in there and its stuck open i am going to go one colder, if i find one and its not stuck open i am going to go one warmer and i am going to check the sensor repporting to the guage on the car but its not very warm after i drive all day and i pop open the hood.

 

judging from the things that have been done to the car i wouldnt be supprised if it has a thermostat that locks open when the coolant temp reaches a certian temp.

 

edit:

ok the oil thing didnt sound right, dont know about your manual but mine says for normal ranges, 0-90+ F it says to use 10/30 10/40 30 F and under 5/30

 

it says in desert areas with high temps or "heavy duty applications" 30, 40, 10/50, 20/40, 20/50 may be used

Edited June 11, 2009 by Niku-Sama