DavieGravy Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 This 91 Legacy of mine just doesn't like me as it's done nothing but break and develop problems since I've owned it. Regardless, I'm having a misfiring priblem. I've replaced all ignition cables going from the distributer to the spark plugs. I've also replaced the #1 and #2 spark plugs themselves. Yet, the problem continues. It acts like it's the #1 cylindar isn't firing. If I unplug #2 from the distributer it evens out a bit and if I unplug #1 it seems to make no difference. There is a check engine light but I can't plull the codes. The connectors that the guide on this site asks me to plug in don't exist on my car or are hidden behind such a massive cluster of wires I can't get to them. Does anyone know what the problem might be? Fuel injector perhaps? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 Have you replaced the cap and rotor? nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unibrook Posted June 23, 2009 Share Posted June 23, 2009 If it has been more than 40k miles since you last replaced your front 02 sensor, you might try that. It can cause misfire, and it doesn't always throw a code more specific than misfire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavieGravy Posted June 24, 2009 Author Share Posted June 24, 2009 I didn't realize it last night but after driving it today the car is no longer misfiring while the gas peddle is engaged. However, it's still idling extremely rough and shaking. Regarding the cap and rotor: when I unplug each lead from the distributer one at a time, I can see the spark coming from each terminal. So that tells me it's fine but I could be wrong. I have not replaced the O2 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Actually there should be no arcing at the cap if the wires are fully away from the cap. You need a new cap and rotor, you cant tell just by looking at them sometimes that they are good. If you dont replace it and still have issues, its, well, your doing 1/2 a tuneup. Youll just be chasing your tail. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 Actually there should be no arcing at the cap if the wires are fully away from the cap. You need a new cap and rotor, you cant tell just by looking at them sometimes that they are good. If you dont replace it and still have issues, its, well, your doing 1/2 a tuneup. Youll just be chasing your tail. nipper 91 Legacy? There is no CAP and ROTOR. There is a coilpack. The connectors for reading the codes are also there, probably just tucked up behind the wiring for the computer. I know it requires actually trying hard, but you can get them, promise. I don't think spark is the problem, I think it is fuel, and a failed or clogged injector. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nipper Posted June 24, 2009 Share Posted June 24, 2009 soory my mind goes between legacys and loyalesmodels in those years. Still there should be no spark leakage at the coil towers even with the wires removed, cap or no cap., especially on a waste spark system, since two plugs fire together. The voltage will find the path of least resistance, and if it is finfing the coil tower the easiest path, that indicates a hairline crack. Put the wires on with the car running and wet the coils and wires. There should be no sparking. best done in the early evening. nipper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
njdrsubaru Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 i've seen this happen to many of the 1st gen legacys your problem lies on the ignitor, its that square type of slim box by the fire wall right above the pitchstop.. change that and u are good to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavieGravy Posted August 14, 2009 Author Share Posted August 14, 2009 (edited) The car is still missing on and off and idles rough after sitting in my garage for a few weeks while I replaced the starter. Thanks for the suggestion on the ignitor. I'll try it and post back. Is this what you're talking about? Edited August 14, 2009 by DavieGravy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davebugs Posted August 14, 2009 Share Posted August 14, 2009 That IS the ignitor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavieGravy Posted August 25, 2009 Author Share Posted August 25, 2009 Unfortunately replacing the ignitor didn't help. The car is still missing on and off. Sometimes it'll be fine, other times it will miss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 25, 2009 Share Posted August 25, 2009 Use a spark tester to see if the misfire is really due to lack of spark. A clogged or faulty fuel injector will also cause a misfire. You could have a vacuum leak, bad O2 sensor, dirty MAF sensor, the list goes on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavieGravy Posted August 26, 2009 Author Share Posted August 26, 2009 Well the check engine light is on constantly now and the car is extremely bad when it's cold. So bad it will stall and not move when you hit the gas . I found the hard to get to connectors and was able to pull a code of 21 (2 long flashes followed by 1 short one). If I looked it up correctly that's "Coolant temperature sensor or circuit". I don't see how that could be causing a misfire. Normally you can hear vacuum leaks so I've ruled that out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairtax4me Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 (edited) A bad temp sensor would either cause the ECU to deliver excess fuel to the engine thinking that the engine hadn't yet warmed up (running rich, which could cause driveability issues). OR it will tell the ECU that the engine is warm all the time even when it's actually cold which will cause hard cold starting issues. There are two Temp sensors. One is a sender or switch for the gauge/light in the cluster. The other is a sensor for the ECU. The one for the ECU will have two wires. That is the one that the ECU has determined to have an issue. Edited August 26, 2009 by Fairtax4me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 The one for the ECU will have two wires. That is the one that the ECU has determined to have an issue. +1! I'm willing to bet it will clear up your problems, it sure did for me. Good thing is it's a relatively inexpensive fix and not terribly difficult to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gloyale Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 This 91 Legacy of mine just doesn't like me as it's done nothing but break and develop problems since I've owned it. Let me guess...you bought it super cheap from someone who didn't maintain it? now why in the world would it need work????? Regardless, I'm having a misfiring priblem. I've replaced all ignition cables going from the distributer to the spark plugs. I've also replaced the #1 and #2 spark plugs themselves. Yet, the problem continues. It acts like it's the #1 cylindar isn't firing. If I unplug #2 from the distributer it evens out a bit and if I unplug #1 it seems to make no difference. You should test that the wires are firing either with a timing light.....or pull the plug end of the wire.....insert a spare spark plug in the wire and hold it with rubber handled plier against the engine block or intake while someone cranks the engine. That should show you spark. If both wires spark....then see below. There is a check engine light but I can't plull the codes. The connectors that the guide on this site asks me to plug in don't exist on my car or are hidden behind such a massive cluster of wires I can't get to them. Yes they are commonly behind the wiring for the TCU. 2 10mm bolts at the top of the TCU braket can be removed, and the TCU drops down to access the wires. Untape them from the harness and stretch them out and bolt the TCU back in. Does anyone know what the problem might be? Fuel injector perhaps? If you checked that there is spark at all cylinders, then the miss is most likely an injector. Remove the wires from each injector and test resistance across the contacts of each one. Should be around 11 ohms IIRC. If any are zero or higher than the spec(over 13) then that injector is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lefty Posted August 27, 2009 Share Posted August 27, 2009 Ive had misfirings steming from corrosion on the coil pack terminals. some sand paper and break cleaner did the job for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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