So I just put a "new" engine in my GL last week.

It had a slight coolant leak since then and I figured it was the old heater hoses (one was seeping a bit) so I replaced them today.

 

Got it all cleaned up and filled back up and such.

warmed it up.

 

Still coolant coming from the top of the engine.

Close inspection revealed a it was coming through the top of the block, small crack.

 

Any way to seal that up? (like a JB type deal maybe)

 

Engine runs great and it would suck to scrap it and hunt down a new one.

Especially since I blew my funds on all the gaskets and seals for this one.

 

I've had good luck with JB Weld type stuff in the past on various things.

Had it not work so great on other things.

 

Which one of those things might this be?

It's just a seep right now. Can barely tell it's cracked. I thought it was coming from the rear bolt on top the holds the block halves together but it looks to be originating further up and kinda has a crack type line to it.

I have an entire EA81 engine sitting here in my garage...

did you check the 1/4" small coolant hose to the carb intake.....? it runs from right by the alternator over to the passenger side top of intake near the front

 

If it is a crack in the block, might be able to jb weld it, but remember, cracks get bigger and bigger over time.

I have an entire EA81 engine sitting here in my garage...

 

If it's a known good runner I may take you up on that.

this one was supposed to go into another guy's project but he never got around to it and sold it to me. He thought it was all fine. And I fully think he did not know about it's leak. But he never actually ran it.

did you check the 1/4" small coolant hose to the carb intake.....? it runs from right by the alternator over to the passenger side top of intake near the front

 

If it is a crack in the block, might be able to jb weld it, but remember, cracks get bigger and bigger over time.

 

I'll have to look but I don't remember such a hose on mine.

The intake manifold came off my old engine.

 

 

Ok i went out and looked again. It has a small hose fromt the top of the block in the middle behind the disty that goes to the manifold on the pass side. And it is a coolant hose. I may replace it tomarrow.

I also went and hosed down the engine real good to make sure all old collant was gone.

I'll run it in the morning and check for new leaks. Maybe some was sitting up ther hiding and fooled me (I hope).

Edited August 15, 200916 yr by TeamCF

it was in my brat and running alright. It didn't like to idle below 900 so that annoyed the emissions guys. And I was getting 2200 ppm on the hydrocarbon emissions which everyone said was due to a severe miss at idle. So instead of searching for a fix, i bought a $180 legacy and did the EJ22 swap!

I'll have to look but I don't remember such a hose on mine.

The intake manifold came off my old engine.

 

Take your alternator off and you'll see what he is talking about.

it was in my brat and running alright. It didn't like to idle below 900 so that annoyed the emissions guys. And I was getting 2200 ppm on the hydrocarbon emissions which everyone said was due to a severe miss at idle. So instead of searching for a fix, i bought a $180 legacy and did the EJ22 swap!

 

An option. i gotta see how this one pans out first though.

I know my carb and such is working good so I may get by on the emissions thing. (Passed with flying colors with the old engine that had a rod knock)

Take your alternator off and you'll see what he is talking about.

 

I found it but it was not behind the alt (see my edited reply above). I have no hoses behind the alt for coolant. there is a plug in the top of the manifold back there though. (it is not leaking)

Interesting. Can you get some pictures of your engine bay from all sides?

Interesting. Can you get some pictures of your engine bay from all sides?

 

I'll see about some tomarrow.

 

And thanks for the replies guys.

Hey gwilson87.

How much for that engine and how many miles did it have on it.

 

I started mine up today and watched the coolant spray out of the crack.

This sucks, the thing runs beyond perfect. I may never find a stronger engine short of calling up RAM.

 

 

And mine does have a hose going from bhind the alt to the manifold under the carb on the driver's side. Then another going from off the block under the carb on the pass side to the manifold. Niether were leaking.

Well clean it up nicely and give some jb weld a go

Pull the engine and have the crack welded by a good TIG welder, then bead blast the repaired area on the outside and it will look like it never happened

 

-Bill

I'm JBing it. Gonna go for broke and see how much time it buys me.

Prep will be the key.

 

Give me some time I can wheel it while I obtain the next heart.

Get some Devcon for Aluminium - JB weld is not the right stuff to use for that type of repair.

 

GD

Get some Devcon for Aluminium - JB weld is not the right stuff to use for that type of repair.

 

GD

 

Crap, too late. it's on there and sticking like sap on fingers. :-\

 

Anyway here was the crack.

 

I think my plan is to rebuild the engine that came out of it and hope this one holds just long enough to get it done.

If it fails, remove the JB weld, use a die-grinder to put a slot along the crack and then fill it with Devcon.

 

Or just have it TIG welded - that would be a simple repair. Hell we broke 12" off the end of a 36" aluminium pipe wrench handle at work. My boss TIG welded it back together and I've had all my weight on a 6 foot cheater pipe hanging on that repair. If the engine runs and doesn't overheat - I say weld it and save the work of putting in another engine.

 

Don't be surprised if the JB weld doesn't hold. Especially if you didn't make a slot for it to get more purchase on the edges of the crack.

 

GD

If it fails, remove the JB weld, use a die-grinder to put a slot along the crack and then fill it with Devcon.

 

Or just have it TIG welded - that would be a simple repair. Hell we broke 12" off the end of a 36" aluminium pipe wrench handle at work. My boss TIG welded it back together and I've had all my weight on a 6 foot cheater pipe hanging on that repair. If the engine runs and doesn't overheat - I say weld it and save the work of putting in another engine.

 

Don't be surprised if the JB weld doesn't hold. Especially if you didn't make a slot for it to get more purchase on the edges of the crack.

 

GD

 

Will do.

Proly have it TIG'ed.

Gonna see if I know anyone with one that can come to the house with it.

I got 220 here. But I would hate to have to pull the whole thing again.

Or if maybe Gregg has a TIG at his shop.... I could tear it down have it welded and put it back together there.

It had to be a "do it now" repair and fresh JB was all that was available short notice with enough time for it to harden.

 

I have ( ) to wheel it tomarrow . Everything is put back together but I'm waiting until morning to fill it with coolant and such.

Just gonna let it sit and harden.

 

Meanwhile I'll arrange a better fix.

Sorry for the late reply. The motor had 202K miles on it when I pulled it. As for price... 1. How do I ship such an item? (would you want me to remove random items such as intake manifold, etc to try and cut down on weight and size) 2. whats your best offer? I am not looking to make money on this since I would only get like 10 bucks at a recycling yard.

Sorry for the late reply. The motor had 202K miles on it when I pulled it. As for price... 1. How do I ship such an item? (would you want me to remove random items such as intake manifold, etc to try and cut down on weight and size) 2. whats your best offer? I am not looking to make money on this since I would only get like 10 bucks at a recycling yard.

 

Ship? I thought you were close by...... there is a "Happy Valley" right near me.

202K is about 118K less than the one that came out of it.