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Power window - wont go up please help


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97 legacy L 159k miles automatic

 

the rear drivers side window wont go up.

 

it has power windows, it will go down, but wont come up..

 

from the drivers control or the door control switch.

 

any one have any advice?

 

is it a switch, or a motor? (in general)

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I had a similar problem a couple of years back it was gradual and eventually the window would not go up until I pulled it will pushing the switch. Although your problem may be caused by something else here is what I did and I haven't had problems since. Remove the inside panel so you have access to the main mechanism and put grease on the track and the rollers.

 

Good Luck

 

Sam

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This is most likely a main switch going bad. The is the one on the drivers door. I have had this problem with a few cars and once I replaced the switch on the drivers door the problem was solved. I just found that to be easier than fiddling with trying to fix the switch. I hate electrical components and would rather replace than try to repair.

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This is most likely a main switch going bad. The is the one on the drivers door. I have had this problem with a few cars and once I replaced the switch on the drivers door the problem was solved. I just found that to be easier than fiddling with trying to fix the switch. I hate electrical components and would rather replace than try to repair.

 

But if the main switch and the individual door switch are not working...I would tend to think it is the motor no? Unless someone knows that when the main switch goes, the door switch won't work either ...but that seems odd

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The main switch controls the other door switches. If it goes out the others will go dead. It is a wiring quirk of these cars. I have done this several times and the new switch fixes the problem. I always use a used, but known good switch and I keep one in reserve for the future. Brand new the master is around 200.00 and at the JY about 20.00. I have an extra if you want to go that way.

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Before you take the motor out, use a 12 volt battery ad try to run the widow up. Just unplug the motor and put juice to the pulg directly. It shold go up with the wires hooked up one way and down the other. If that works, then yor motor is fine. If you need a good one let me know as I have one. If the window goes up and down with direct power, then your master switch is definitely bad.

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Before you take the motor out, use a 12 volt battery ad try to run the widow up. Just unplug the motor and put juice to the pulg directly. It shold go up with the wires hooked up one way and down the other. If that works, then yor motor is fine. If you need a good one let me know as I have one. If the window goes up and down with direct power, then your master switch is definitely bad.

 

thanks for the info.

 

and heres my thought. i planned to test the motor with a battery as well. but i also checked the switch... i had someone go upand down on the drivers switch and ran from the wires to a ground and i got 12 volts on the up and down..

 

since that is the case,

i would assume that the master switch is good.

and checking the motor is pointless.. but i still plan to check the motor anyway....

 

correct?

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Just because the main switches (which usually are the culprit) pass a MM check doesnt mean they can carry all the current to power the motor.

 

Take the main switch apart, clean and lube the contacts. Check the harness that goes through the drivers door.

 

Test the motor by hot wiring it, but usually the first step fixes it.

 

nipper

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Just got done with this on my 92 leg wagon. Thoroughly cleaned all contacts on master switch, re-assembled and tested; all is well in the switch. The motor is a different story. :mad:

There is a worm gear to ring gear drive. Worm gear is metal and ring is plastic. Worm gear should have an adjustment for gear mesh. A screw with a jam nut covered in hard glue at the top end of the motor.

Provided that your plastic ring gear is not too worn you may be able to adjust and fix this problem. If so, I agree with "sam888". Clean and lube every aspect of window function. However, I would use an aerosol based teflon spray lube if available, less messy and longer lasting.

Good luck!

Edited by mountainchef
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  • 1 year later...

Since the motor works and not all switches in the harness are bad, I took the driver side switch assembly apart...very interesting mechinism. I found that the white nylon pins that engage the contacts were warn on the non-working switch. I also noticed the pins are removable and are symetrical. Simply pull the warn white nylon pin or pins out, flip them over and re-insert. The switch worked like new.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I maintain that this problem would have to be the motor's. You would have to replace it in your case. Same thing happened to my car. There are so many ways how to replace a window motor. I relied on these steps and then ended up not having problems with it any longer. It's quite a difficult process but it's still the best way to do it.

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