Ok gang help me out, what the heck is missing from this picture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lets look clooooooooser.

What the heck is missing. Oh and i found this yakama wrench, just curious as if anyone knows what it goes to.

 

 

Buy the way, some pics of my helper. I rewarded her with her first driveing lesson.

Edited September 13, 200916 yr by The Dude Abides

you are just missing the dust shield on the axle.... lots of mine don't have them....

 

The Yakima wrench is used to tighten some of the hard to get to Yakima bolts....

Ok well thats good that that isnt anything serious. But........... thats the side thats makeing the grindeing noise. I moved the passanger side wheel and didnt hear the noise but when i moved the driverside it started makeing that grindeing. Bearings probally.

Cute helper I decided to start a new thread rather than hijack yours

 

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=857274#post857274

Edited September 14, 200916 yr by Txakura

Ok well thats good that that isnt anything serious. But........... thats the side thats makeing the grindeing noise. I moved the passanger side wheel and didnt hear the noise but when i moved the driverside it started makeing that grindeing. Bearings probally.

 

the easiest thing to do is replace the entire trailing arm. I had a Brat that made noises from there.... grease ran dry because a prev owner had welded the castle nut onto the drum, and melted out all the grease... I locked it up going 65 made for a good spark show....

Oh and i found this yakama wrench, just curious as if anyone knows what it goes to.

 

That Yakima wrench is just what McBrat said, for the hardware that tightens the raingutter towers on your roof rack. The bolt is on the backside under the crossbar loop and snugs up the loop to the cross bar so you can take off the rack from the car without loosing your tower spread on the cross bar.

Mick

 

Are you seriously telling me its easier to replace the entire trailing arm then the rear wheel bearing. It will probally cost me 50 bucks for a trailing arm from the junkyard vs 10 for the bearings. It cant be that hard.

Mick

 

Are you seriously telling me its easier to replace the entire trailing arm then the rear wheel bearing. It will probally cost me 50 bucks for a trailing arm from the junkyard vs 10 for the bearings. It cant be that hard.

 

You have to have a special tool to get the locking nut off and a press to do the rear wheel bearings...

Removing the trailing arm is as easy as losening 2 bolts and removing the shock and axle...

-Bill

i say put a NEW bearing on there, this is a job to do right, the first time and it will last. Getting a junkyard one with more miles is a crapshoot i would not do. Bearings are a wear item, and going used will get you one that might be worse.

 

Ben if you want i will try to buy the tool in the coming weeks, cause i need to do mine someday.

Those are Very Beautiful Pictures!

 

...

...

 

Remembers me my First Drivin` Lessons too...

about your Subie, I Kindly Suggest you to Change the Old Ball Bearin` with a New one AND put back there the Dust Shield Cover... it Worth it.

Kind Regards & Blessings.

JesZeK

i say put a NEW bearing on there, this is a job to do right, the first time and it will last. Getting a junkyard one with more miles is a crapshoot i would not do. Bearings are a wear item, and going used will get you one that might be worse.

 

Ben if you want i will try to buy the tool in the coming weeks, cause i need to do mine someday.

 

I have the tool you tools can use if you want

I have the tool you tools can use if you want

 

and i found the tool for 39.99 plus ship on ebay, gotta be cheapers somewhere, Mick is cheaper......lol

IM not even positive its the bearings. But the scrapeing noise increases as i go faster. Is this something i can grease from the backside to prolong its life alittle. It seems to be getting worse every few months or so. Anything else it could possibly be.

you can for sure squirt some grease in there with a grease gun with pointed fine tip nozzle. It will guiet down dry bearings for a while......

it probably is the bearing. if your inner wheel seal is bad, or missing, then the water from some puddles could have got in there, deteriorating the original grease making it into a milkshake. If you went thru any puddles recently, then yeah. Ask Dennis what happened to his after a few small puddles. Fun stuff right, but then not long after the fun, there is trouble

Im sure drivin through the puddles repeately and the mucky mud didnt help any.

Have you jacked up the axle in question and checked for movement in the bearings? Grab the tire at the top and bottom and see if there is any play. You probably already knew that, just checkin', lol.

Actually i didnt know that but i did it anyways. Little movement but nothing to drastic. Not bad balljoint drastic.

IM not even positive its the bearings. But the scrapeing noise increases as i go faster. Is this something i can grease from the backside to prolong its life alittle. It seems to be getting worse every few months or so. Anything else it could possibly be.

 

You recently installed those Rear Disc Brakes right?

 

I can think of 1 thing that could be causing the scraping other than wheel bearings.

 

Make sure the Brake Disc backing plate is not bent and touching the rotor as it goes round.

You have to have a special tool to get the locking nut off and a press to do the rear wheel bearings...

Removing the trailing arm is as easy as losening 2 bolts and removing the shock and axle...

-Bill

 

 

How do you remove the axel from the trailing arm. Doesnt it just slide off.

You recently installed those Rear Disc Brakes right?

 

I can think of 1 thing that could be causing the scraping other than wheel bearings.

 

Make sure the Brake Disc backing plate is not bent and touching the rotor as it goes round.

 

 

I thought of that to but the problem is it was makeing this noise before i swaped the brakes. Its geting worse boys. If this things fails, whats the worst that can happen.

I thought of that to but the problem is it was makeing this noise before i swaped the brakes. Its geting worse boys. If this things fails, whats the worst that can happen.

 

you totally cook the grease out of the bearings, and then you keep driving them... it locks up at 65 mph on the interstate... then you drive the car 1.5 miles to the next exit where you get towed back home....

Soo i should probally take care of this. Dam like ive got money growing out of my butt.

 

 

you need one of these to grow

Edited September 21, 200916 yr by bheinen74

Bearings are easy to replace. I don't have the special tool, but I just use a hammer and punch, it's always worked for me

be sure you are sitting down and then check price on bearing and seals. Best price I could find was about $50. for 2 seals and bearing assembly.