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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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front passenger wheel seized up 1985 gl hi-lo

bearing caliper seized gl 1985 wagon cv-joint

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19 replies to this topic

#1 nepppen

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 10:11 PM

Hello all,

 

Last summer, after driving on the highway, I heard a squealing sound coming from the passenger front wheel. The next day when driving around 40 mph the wheel locked. I was able to steer it onto the side of the road. The caliper was seized up and I was able to pry it loose. I drove it a few feet and realized I would need a tow.

 

The tow truck was a flat-bed wrecker and pulled the car up onto the bed. While the car was being pulled the locked wheel popped loudly one time and began spinning freely. I was able to roll it backwards into my driveway.

 

This summer I finally got around to working on the vehicle. I purchased new Beck/Arnley loaded calipers, rotors, and hydrolic hoses. I drained the old fluid with a Mytivac and installed new fluid. I tested the ebrake and it does not feel as tight as it was before.

 

I also did a Weber 32/36 conversion which is almost finished. I just have to figure out how to adjust the idle and check my pcv lines for proper routing.

 

The car started up and when I attempted to drive it felt like the wheels were locking up very similalry to when the vehicle felt after it initially ran when I tried to drive it before I called the tow-truck.

 

I had the bearing relaced a couple of thousand miles ago from a very reputable shop, and I am at a loss on what to start working on next. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

 



#2 BratRod

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 10:27 PM

Sounds pretty indicative of a bearing to me... You said "bearing" just to be sure, you mean both, right? There are two per front wheel.

Edited by BratRod, 22 June 2013 - 10:27 PM.


#3 NorthWet

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Posted 22 June 2013 - 10:32 PM

Are you reasonable sure that you are installing the pads in the calipers correctly?  The caliper piston has a raised section, and the pins that are on the pad for the piston-side need to slip into the non-raised section.  (Implying that the pistons need to be oriented in a certain way.) 

 

I screwed up once, and drove about 5 miles before that caliper "locked-up" enough to make me stop; after it cooled a little, I could go a little further, but not much.



#4 john in KY

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 07:32 AM

Problem could be the master cylinder. 



#5 Subruise

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 11:49 AM

how corroded are your e brake cables?



#6 nepppen

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 03:04 PM

I am pretty sure I installed the pads correctly and I did not notice any corrosion on the ebrake cables. I was talking to a mechanic friend of mine late last night and he thinks the master cylinder is bad. I am going to go ahead and install new rear cylinders, drums, lines and a master cylinder.

 

Thank you for the replies and I will post the results.



#7 naru

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Posted 23 June 2013 - 03:27 PM

Open the bleeder on the affected wheel to see if the master is holding pressure on the caliper.

 

I`ve seen bad brake hoses do the same thing.

Sometimes they develop an internal flap that acts as a one way valve.

Brake will release when the bleeder is opened.



#8 nepppen

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 12:24 PM

Good afternoon, all:

 

I took the wheels off only to discover the new calipers are grinding on the rims. I am going to hand file the caliper bracket down in an attempt to fix the problem.

 

Any input is ALWAYS appreciated!



#9 NorthWet

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 12:29 PM

This is more of a memory-jog for others, because I can't remember the exact information:

 

Calipers on turbo models of the EA82-line interfere with EA81 rims.  I can not remember if it is ALL EA82 calipers and just the EA81 rims, or if it is just the Turbo calipers and all non-turbo rims.



#10 Subruise

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 12:43 PM

ea81 wheels (round spokes) wont work with ea82 brakes....unless youve got jackmans



#11 nepppen

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 06:16 PM

I do believe I have the jackman rims. When I bought the wagon it had the jackman rims on and the previous owner gave me the original rims. I think I am going to have the wheels mounted on the orignal rims before I have them power coated. Has anyone had their rims power coated, I am curious to know what a reasonable price is for that service.



#12 Subruise

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Posted 26 June 2013 - 06:41 PM

powdercoating i have not expored yet. Jackmans have a "J" on  one spoke



#13 nepppen

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 03:42 PM

Hello all,

 

I installed new calipers, rotors, and pads. The new calipers were rubbing on the rims since the rims were not original equipment for the car. I ground down the lines from the sand castings and installed two grade 8 washers around the studs. 7/16" thick washers fit perfect. The ginding from the original wheel did not go away. Since I had new bearings installed, and installed a new hub and half-shaft myself, I assumed the transmission was damaged due to the caliper locking up.

 

I took the half-shaft off to isolate the grinding sound. The inner bearing came out in bits and pieces. A lot of those bits are welded to the half-shaft. What would cause that bearing to fail. The outer bearing is in mint condition. I had the shop align the vehicle after the repair and they have done other work to the vehicle that has been spot on.

 

What would cause a new bearing to fail so badly?

 

 

Any and all input is greatly appreciated!



#14 bertmann73

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 03:56 PM

my guess is the pressure from the wheel being foced against the caliper would make the inner bearing give. just 1/16 of an inch push on the rim would equal triying to off set 1/4 inch on the inner bearing

#15 bertmann73

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Posted 26 August 2013 - 04:03 PM

also another thing to check would be the tapered guide for the hub. if the bolts are not checked regularly thes can get loose and form a ridge around the top. i just grind off the ridge carefully and torque it back down.
bearings are made from high carbon tempered steel that can resist scratches and wear but as soon as it has to do something it was not designed for it will crack with ease.

#16 nepppen

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 04:48 PM

Hello: all,

 

I finally have the cv halfshalf installed along with the hub and disk brake. The piston on the new caliper will not completely disengag, thus causing the brake pad housing not to fit over the brake pads.

 

Any suggestions on how to depress the piston. I opened the brake bleeder valve and still no luck.

 

Nepppen



#17 naru

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 05:37 PM

You need to rotate the caliper piston.



#18 bratman18

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 06:10 PM

Yes, you have to screw the caliper piston in, not press it in like most. They have a tool for the job, but you can also just use the nose end of pliers as well.



#19 81EA81

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 02:45 PM

ea81 wheels (round spokes) wont work with ea82 brakes....unless youve got jackmans

I happen to have EA81 wheels on my EA82 wagon. The seem to clear fine. Maby the 85-86 calipers were different?


Edited by 81EA81, 06 September 2013 - 02:47 PM.


#20 bratman18

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 03:57 PM

I happen to have EA81 wheels on my EA82 wagon. The seem to clear fine. Maby the 85-86 calipers were different?

Your pads are probably worn down enough.







Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: bearing, caliper, seized, gl, 1985, wagon, cv-joint

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