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1995 Subaru Legacy L wagon ej22

 

Got the flywheel off.

 

Looks like I have the plastic oil separator plate. Week be swapping for metal. Thoughts on the rear main seal. Pic attached.

 

Should I swap it out? Board seems to dissuade people from removing...but it looks like it is leaking around bottom.

 

Thanks

Tom

post-59509-0-80742600-1440560149_thumb.jpg

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I would change it since it's leaking. Two reasons the board dissuades, 1. You have to drive and seat it correctly or its going to leak and the only way to change it again us to pull the engine. 2.) They don't go bad very often so most of the time people say (only replace if leaking). i.e. don't plan on doing it until you actually see a leak.

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That's not a rear main leak. Thats overspray from the plate.

I'd leave it.

If you decide to do it, the seal should be flush or a hair below the boss.

When doing seals of this type I use a small block of wood which spans the diameter and tap it around the circumference.

 

O.

Edited by ocei77
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it's not leaking,

do not replace it.

they usually last the life of the car.

do not temp fate,

it is NOT leaking.

 

possible outcomes if you replace it,

it cannot get any better, it isn't going to put clean oil back into your engine.

it could stay the same, still not leak.

or it could get worse, it could start to leak.

 

best to leave it alone.

 

good luck.

Edited by johnceggleston
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That's a lot of oil on the bottom of the main seal to be just crud, but you never know.

 

As for them never leaking, I have to disagree.  I have a Phase 2 EJ22 w/ the steel separator plate in my car that the Separator plate was "NOT" leaking on yet the rear main was.

 

I have a Phase 2 EJ22 w/ the steel separator plate in my garage that again, the separator plate is now showing any leaking, but the rear main is (at 194k miles, but also a bad rod).

 

I've also seen others with the rear main leaking.

 

They do not always last the life of the car, they are a seal and can (and eventually will) fail simply because you have metal rubbing on a rubber surface it's going to wear.

 

Personally there is enough crud on that main seal, and towards the top where the separator plate leak appears towards the bottom, I would replace it.  But I've done a lot of rear mains and already learned how to seat one properly (after you have to repull an engine a couple of times you quickly learn how to do it right).

 

What does concern me on that (would need to see a picture after it's cleaned up) is that the top of it looks like it may be gouched a little.  You can't tell  until it's cleaned up.

 

What you don't mention is how many miles are on it?

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That's a lot of oil on the bottom of the main seal to be just crud, but you never know.

 

As for them never leaking, I have to disagree.  I have a Phase 2 EJ22 w/ the steel separator plate in my car that the Separator plate was "NOT" leaking on yet the rear main was.

 

I have a Phase 2 EJ22 w/ the steel separator plate in my garage that again, the separator plate is now showing any leaking, but the rear main is (at 194k miles, but also a bad rod).

 

I've also seen others with the rear main leaking.

 

They do not always last the life of the car, they are a seal and can (and eventually will) fail simply because you have metal rubbing on a rubber surface it's going to wear.

 

Personally there is enough crud on that main seal, and towards the top where the separator plate leak appears towards the bottom, I would replace it.  But I've done a lot of rear mains and already learned how to seat one properly (after you have to repull an engine a couple of times you quickly learn how to do it right).

 

What does concern me on that (would need to see a picture after it's cleaned up) is that the top of it looks like it may be gouched a little.  You can't tell  until it's cleaned up.

 

What you don't mention is how many miles are on it?

Sorry...it has 186K

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Whether a seal leaks or not is not voodoo.  With 186 K miles I would replace.  If you have not worked a lot with rear main seals, the important things are to put it in square and  straight - I found a cereal bowl that was just the right diameter for the EJ25 I just did.  Lightly oil the inside lip.  Note the ridges there on inside seal lip. They slant in the direction to coax the oil back into the crank case so give them a head start on life instead of putting the rubber next to dry metal. Lightly oiling the outside will cause it to seat a lot more easily. Take your time. Double check your work. Use a Subaru OEM or Fel-pro seal. Don't use excessive force.  You will feel the stop when it bottoms out.

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  • 1 year later...

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