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EA82 heater core exchange DONE!! Not too difficult


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30 replies to this topic

#1 moosens

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Posted 28 December 2004 - 09:06 PM

Warmth!!!!My touring wagon does not go three winters without heat!!!

As a suggestion I think it's a good idea to get a new core.I went with a used one but I don't mind so much on this particular car.
I also think it's a good idea if possible,to get a parts car or remove a dash at a junkyard and remove the heater box unit.You can then re-dress the box with fresh foam and clean it out nicely.This will make the swap a good fifteen to thirty minutes shorter.And you can install your new core in it as well.Total swap time should be around 4-6 hours tops.You might beat that by a good hour with proper preperation.

Another thing to consider is getting new dashboard lightbulb and resolve any instrument lighting issues.Don't forget the ashtray bulb.Good time to check your clock or repair it.

Disconnect battery ground,remove the loop installed to bypass the heater when it leaked like a puppy all over the carpet.Remove the gasket plate that the heater core inlet and outlet tubes pass through as they go through the firewall.Good idea to disconnect the speedometer cable from the tranny too.Give some slack towards the dash.Quick,close the hood and get in the car it's starting to snow :lol:

Fortunately,you already removed the front seats and you're not considerd tall by any means.Remove center consoles from underdash to emergency brake/center compartment piece.It's ok to leave the radio in but you can take some weight off the dash if you take it out now.Disconnect antenea wire at shoulder of transmission hump up by the driver's feet.You'll also want to disconnect the cable that goes to the heater box.And there's a vacuum hose to pull off of the heaterbox as well,all on the driver's side right near each other.

Remove the underside dash panels.I remove the glovebox at this point with just one screw at the hinge base and slide it towards the other hinge to remove.On the passenger side you only need to disconnect the connectors by the door and if you're lucky or skillfull maybe at this point you can get the vacuum tube as well,but if not you'll get it when the dash begins to come off.All connectors on this side are foolproof.Good luck!

Over of the driver's side it's a jungle but nothing you can't handle.Remove the fusebox with three screws and let it hang.The only things to disconnect are what goes through the firewall.Disconnect the harness under the steering wheel.Then drop the computer by loosening the three nuts and sliding it towards the rear of the car.Disconnect it and tuck it away.Drop the steering wheel with 2 bolts.The wheel should be free to drop.
There's a chance you may have to disconnect a cruise control processor.

Dashboard fastners are 10mm.You'll see three covers to remove across the top.There's also a cover on each end on the front of the dash facing the seats.

I was able to raise the dash and rest it diagonally using the steering wheel as a rest,driver's side of dash forward,pass. side to rear.That gave me enoug room to get the heater unit out.But first you need to disconnect the ductwork.Very easy,just squeeze the band clip,you'll see.Leave the rear section right there on the duct and just lift and remove the front part of the band clip.Unbolt the heaterbox at top.Be sure to have the center console brackets removed for ease and safety.Besides,there's a ground wire off the box there.You can slice the carpet in the center to make it a little easier to remove.The ducts going to the rear seats need to be bent to allow the heaterbox outlets to be free.Just bend the ducts gently,trying not to crease them severely.Remove the heaterbox tipping the top slightly downward toward the rear of the car as you slide the unit rearward.I found it easy to do this from the passenger side but once it was off the mount I went around the driver's side to get it free from the car since the ductwork on the other side makes it hard with the dash resting just above.

Now it was time to remove the core from the box.I cleaned the box up with some cleaner and replaced the foam with some seriously dense foam that was already sticky-backed.Replace core,ready to head for home.

Insert the box making the tubes go through the firewall,get it in place,bolt it up with the top 10mm inside the car.Go outside and install the gasketplate,and hoses.

Put the dash back and remember to install the vacuum hose on the passenger side,make sure the speedometer is in(you'd be smart to remove it from the tranny and give some slack before taking the dash out,see above).Hook up the cable for the heater control,the vacuum and the antenea all right near each other.

Driver's side,connect the jungle being careful and hopefully not colorblind.The connectors mostly all fit only where they belong with each other.If the car doesn't start,check the high beam lever.It'll engage the starter if the connectors are mixed up.Those two are the same so maybe mark them beforehand.

I will proofread this a little later and add to it,have to go.

OK,edited today 12/29/04,looks good to me at a quick glance.Let me know if there's anything to add,delete,or alter.

#2 Roundeye

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Posted 28 December 2004 - 09:14 PM

Did you remember to leave a little something for the next guy?

Posted Image

#3 VaporTrail

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Posted 28 December 2004 - 09:38 PM

that's exactly how I did mine Paul! :)

now if only it had a motor :(

#4 sportsterbrat

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Posted 28 December 2004 - 10:14 PM

Oh that is mean Roundeye! Good write up I hate doing heatercores anyway.

#5 SUBARU3

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 01:08 AM

Paul:

Congrats....

Now go to bed, I see you are still up at 0100!!

Todd

#6 moosens

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 01:17 AM

:lol:

The thought crossed my mind.I was going to write the date.Maybe add some humor,but that's funny.

I know this is intimidating to a large percentage of owners.If I can do it,you can do it too.Heat is a wonderful thing.

I'll check it tomorrow and see what to add.Thanks for the compliment.

Mick,what motor do you need?

#7 moosens

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 01:19 AM

G'night todd! :D

#8 VaporTrail

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 01:47 AM

Mick,what motor do you need?


oh, I've got an ea81 that's going in it, but I'm still working on it...

#9 NorthWet

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 06:56 AM

Thanks for the timely writeup... I will post it to my (slightly fogged) windshield and refer to it as I work. :)

#10 baccaruda

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 07:02 AM

nice write up.. i did the heater core in my 66 barracuda and it was extremely simple. I've been dreading a subaru core change.. how long did it take you?

#11 moosens

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 08:22 AM

I'll try to put all the info on the first post so anyone can just print the first page(s).

Basically,it took me about 6 hours but I could have done it a couple of hours quicker.It was cold,snowing(just after I started and I had no idea snow was coming).I also took a break to eat and relaxed/got warm for a few minutes several times.In good weather,when this job SHOULD have been done,it'd take 4 hours,just like my local Senior Master Tech told me.

I think if you print my instructions and read them beforehand you'll be more set up and more knowledgeable when happening upon certain situations.So,that should shave some time off for the next guy.

My big problem was that I chased stuff around at the end.Like having the 2 connectors reversed.Should have seen my face when I realized I was engaing the started by hitting the high beam lever! :lol: Won't make that mistake again.

Please make sure this gets archived.Just give me a little time to make the original post complete.I just want to add a couple of things.....a little later.Have to work now.

#12 VaporTrail

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 09:40 AM

I'll try to put all the info on the first post so anyone can just print the first page(s).

Basically,it took me about 6 hours but I could have done it a couple of hours quicker.It was cold,snowing(just after I started and I had no idea snow was coming).I also took a break to eat and relaxed/got warm for a few minutes several times.In good weather,when this job SHOULD have been done,it'd take 4 hours,just like my local Senior Master Tech told me.

I think if you print my instructions and read them beforehand you'll be more set up and more knowledgeable when happening upon certain situations.So,that should shave some time off for the next guy.

My big problem was that I chased stuff around at the end.Like having the 2 connectors reversed.Should have seen my face when I realized I was engaing the started by hitting the high beam lever! :lol: Won't make that mistake again.

Please make sure this gets archived.Just give me a little time to make the original post complete.I just want to add a couple of things.....a little later.Have to work now.


Paul,

when you get teh write-up complete, put it into the USRM Articles, and let me know it's there so I can "approve" the article so it's visible to all...

#13 NorthWet

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 02:57 PM

Paul,

when you get teh write-up complete, put it into the USRM Articles, and let me know it's there so I can "approve" the article so it's visible to all...

I am going to have to go through this soon myself, so are you interested in me taking some digi-pics to go with the text? Just a thought.

#14 VaporTrail

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 03:41 PM

I am going to have to go through this soon myself, so are you interested in me taking some digi-pics to go with the text? Just a thought.


pics are always accepted :)

#15 Subafreak

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 07:14 PM

Man! You were doing that outside!? :rolleyes: I thought maybe you cleared out enough room in the shop:) What was I thinking:lol:

#16 moosens

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 07:34 PM

:banghead: :lol: :banghead: :lol: .........

What,and miss the snowfalling on my face as I look up lying on the floor of a car with moldy carpet?

There will be room very soon.I'm putting the '73 in there for sure.

#17 Roundeye

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Posted 29 December 2004 - 08:12 PM

pics are always accepted :)


I've got some good pics if you want them.

#18 moosens

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Posted 31 December 2004 - 08:33 PM

Can someone archive this for me/us?
I'm stuck in the mud borrowing this Mac laptop.
Thanks very much.
My year end contribution to the USRM.

Happy New Year everybody!

#19 baccaruda

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Posted 07 March 2005 - 11:19 PM

did this ever actually get archived?

#20 moosens

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Posted 08 March 2005 - 04:53 PM

sssssssssankyou! My sister inlaw tells me the car is nice 'n toasty!!!

#21 baccaruda

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Posted 25 March 2005 - 02:15 AM

I'm going to change my wagon's heater core while I'm swapping the engine and digidash.
I took the liberty of slightly reformatting the information in the first post to make it easier to consult while working on the car. Full credit is given to Paul for this guide.

Attached Files



#22 Lang

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Posted 25 March 2005 - 02:51 AM

My thanks to Paul for his guide, appears daunting however once you get into it , it's still a pain job but can be done. My problem is haveing replaced the heater core I still have no heat.. I have hot fluid (radiator water) in and out of the heater core, I took out the air con, condenser and replaced the box, sealed to duct fan flow, all appears to be working ok, vacuum hoses etc;, the two flaps in the heater box operating ok, but for the life of me I cant work out why the heat is not being directed , or maybe flow from fan , through heater core. Well, as it took about six hours today , start to finish, Ill do it all again tomorrow, will have it down to about three I think, if anyone can point me as to what I may be missing or have bungled , much thanks, I just cant see why no heat..

#23 moosens

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Posted 25 March 2005 - 06:54 PM

Is the heater cock opening when you move the sliding lever from blue(cold) to red(hot)??



My thanks to Paul for his guide, appears daunting however once you get into it , it's still a pain job but can be done. My problem is haveing replaced the heater core I still have no heat.. I have hot fluid (radiator water) in and out of the heater core, I took out the air con, condenser and replaced the box, sealed to duct fan flow, all appears to be working ok, vacuum hoses etc;, the two flaps in the heater box operating ok, but for the life of me I cant work out why the heat is not being directed , or maybe flow from fan , through heater core. Well, as it took about six hours today , start to finish, Ill do it all again tomorrow, will have it down to about three I think, if anyone can point me as to what I may be missing or have bungled , much thanks, I just cant see why no heat..



#24 moosens

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Posted 25 March 2005 - 06:57 PM

I took the liberty of slightly reformatting the information



what! my one liners hit the cutting room floor???
This never happens to Scwarzenager!!:banghead:

Thanks,looks great that way.
Happy warm feet everybody!

#25 Lang

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Posted 26 March 2005 - 02:57 AM

I guess that if it can it wiil happened, after I took the air con condenser and assorted bits out , reassembled the whole thing, ran the fan as part of the test to make sure all the electricals were ok, a bit of debri, a small stick like object lodged in the hot/cold flap and jammed it on cold only. Any how, the long job yesterday, about six hours, was done today in less than three, cant beat experience, all is now well, even fitted new radio in that time, so I'm happy. Small tip, when you pull the dash back, hang it with a bit of wire or such from the hinge on the passenger side sun visor, hope thats what you call them, and you can play away very happy, well sort off. Also the seat bolts that go in twords the transmission tunnel are difficult, I snapped one due to dirt on the thread, however such is life. Again , thanks for you scroll on the job. Not as daunting as appears.. Take care Lang




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