Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Loyale, clock on the dash


Recommended Posts

How hard is it to completly eliminate it? I don't care if there is a hole there, I actually want a hole there, because I am building a box to mount my cb radio up there and I am planning on running my power wires and coax through where the clock is located. I am going to use 4 ga wire and thick coax, so y'all think there is enough room behind the dash to run all that?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am just going to run the coax and power wires through the hole left behind from the clock. I am going to mount the radio an the dash infront of where the clock is. I am just thinking of ways to keep the install looking halfway claen, I could run the rg-8 and 4ga through the hole left from the clock behind the dash. At least tht is the plan for now. And as far as needing 4ga and rg-8, take a look at my sig, the 4 pill is going to be used as a driver for a 8 pill in a few months.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah it will just pop out with a flat head screwdriver and then a little ways down on the wiring is a conection adn u just have to undo the connection and if u wanted to like i did with mine was take the clock out of the mounting braket and use my dremel and cu the buttons out and make a nice rectangle out of it and run your wires thorugh there

 

 

 

I am just going to run the coax and power wires through the hole left behind from the clock. I am going to mount the radio an the dash infront of where the clock is. I am just thinking of ways to keep the install looking halfway claen, I could run the rg-8 and 4ga through the hole left from the clock behind the dash. At least tht is the plan for now. And as far as needing 4ga and rg-8, take a look at my sig, the 4 pill is going to be used as a driver for a 8 pill in a few months.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I believe you can also get to the connector on the wiring harness from behind/under the glove box. That is if there isn't enough slack to just pull it out and unplug it.

 

Open the glove box and stick your hand in the upper leftmost corner of it. Pretty easy to do. If you pull the clock out you may jerk the harness. It'll help to find the connector

Link to comment
Share on other sites

for easy access pull down the glovebox, just pull in the sides and push down

 

I've found that the most convenient place for my uniden pc68ltw is standinng up on the floor leaning against the console.

I had a conversation with a dirver, and both ends sounded like talking on a telephone :banana:

also had swr meter set about 1.5 with 2 watts and a little wil on the rear gate of the rx drove 1,000+ miles with it on, no "regular" radio :drool:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How hard is it to completly eliminate it? I don't care if there is a hole there, I actually want a hole there, because I am building a box to mount my cb radio up there and I am planning on running my power wires and coax through where the clock is located. I am going to use 4 ga wire and thick coax, so y'all think there is enough room behind the dash to run all that?

 

Hey, if your clock works, I will take it...mine flashes on and off...its rather annoying...and it doesn't hold the time...

 

let me know...

 

-Bill

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

For the archives, if anyone is searching...

I've owned 8 soobs and only one had a clock that worked, and that one only worked if the planets were aligned. All EA 82s, by the way.

For the entire 4+ years I've owned my Loyale the clock had always been dim and never really kept time. I didn't worry too much about it since the CD player has a built-in clock and just kinda ignored the stock clock.

 

Today I bumped across a thread by NorthWet where he mentioned that a resistor usually loses continuity on one of the solder joints thus causing the clock to become finicky. So, with soldering iron and fine solder in-hand I popped the clock out of the dash to have a look at it. Sure enough, the large 750 ohm/2 watt resistor had both solder joints burned and cracked where it connected to the PCB. I de-soldered and removed the resistor, cleaned up the contacts on the circuit board and re-soldered the resistor. Plugged 'er back in and VOILA it was bright as day-one and kept perfect time again!

 

The long and short of it: before ditching the clock on your EA82 pop it out and have a look at the guts of it. Easy fix!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How hard is it to completly eliminate it? I don't care if there is a hole there, I actually want a hole there, because I am building a box to mount my cb radio up there and I am planning on running my power wires and coax through where the clock is located. I am going to use 4 ga wire and thick coax, so y'all think there is enough room behind the dash to run all that?

I have a 50 watt 2 meter ham rig in my Subaru. It's powered by #12 wire to the battery. I'm sure you don't need anything as large as what I'm using since your power output is much less than my rig.

 

As for coax, I use small diameter RG-58a/u. It's very flexable and is low loss IF it's length is under 20 feet. Coax has more loss at higher frequencies so at 27mh, your loss would be much less than on 2 meters (144-148 mh).

 

Also, keep your rig out of the sun! It'll bake it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Easy to remove... I took mine out in like 5 minutes. Had a big ol CB up there back when I had the car. Ran the wires in the dash (behind the glove box) and up the clock hole to the back of the CB which was screwed straight down (the bracket that is) to the top of the dash.

 

If you have the back of the CB where the connectors come out poking into the clock hole it lets you scoot the CB farther back onto the dash and away from you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Every time I set the clock on the dash of my loyale it will hold the time all the way to work. But when I get back in- it is way off again. Completly random. Sometimes 17 min, some time 6 1/2 hours- Who knows!

 

It sounds like the memory power lead for the clock is not suppling power to the clock. This power is needed to keep the memory alive for the clock and is always supplied to the clock. The normal accessory power works ok since you stated that the clock works and keeps time ok when the car is running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...