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Guest Message by DevFuse

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just testing the H20 -> alt. repair art.?

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7 replies to this topic

#1 Skip


    Flatuous Blather

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  • Latrobe, Pennsylvania

Posted 11 October 2003 - 04:44 PM

After toasting multiple alternators in my Subes, I've taken to make an attempt at repairing them. (basics only - diodes, volt reg, bushes)
My question is
Should I write up an article for the repair manual or would it basiclly be a waste of time as most just take them to a repair shop or grab a boneyard model?
Here is the work bench and test rig I use when doing repairs.Posted Image
At this point I'm playing mix and match using good VRs and brush sets in shells with good diodes and windings.

( I know a lot of us use our extra seats for bench chairs)

#2 TheSubaruJunkie



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Posted 11 October 2003 - 05:04 PM

Its never a waste to submit something for the USRM.


#3 mcbrat


    Brattitude Adjustment

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 06:32 PM

I see a couple XT-6/Legacy sized alts on the shelf there Skipper :)

#4 Turbone


    The Original Rob

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 07:50 PM

Real nice setup there Skip. I've torn apart one Alt. to find out how much of a PIA it would be to rework one. Not that hard really, if you have any soldering skills. I called a local auto elec place and the rectifier is $35 and the regulator is $25. A previous post about the same subject has some interesting prospects on the GM/Chevy alt's. Maybe a write-up on both (ie, upgrade on the American alt) would be a good addition to the USRM. Do you have any idea why our alt's get toasted so easily? My assumption is the high R's, maybe a bigger pulley would slow the alt down.

#5 TheSubaruJunkie



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Posted 11 October 2003 - 07:55 PM

Why is it Skips garage looks like a High School shop class. DAMN SKIP! Is there anything you DONT have???

The pulley idea is a good one Rob. Ive toasted 3 alternators in the last month (on 3 different subes) so its getting agrivating. I can get a new alt for $80, sounds like rebuild parts are close to $50.


#6 moosens


    Vintage Subathusiast

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Posted 11 October 2003 - 09:51 PM

DAMN SKIP! Is there anything you DONT have???

Don't worry,if he doesn't have it yet he will soon.Is that a LeBlond lathe?Looks like high school shop to me too.

#7 Skip


    Flatuous Blather

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Posted 12 October 2003 - 08:18 AM

Well thanks for the compl's guys, what I don't have? - money
Being semi employed has it's advantages and it's dis...
if ya catch my drift.

Mick, good eye there mate, they are XT6 units, one of which I fried, first one I've ever heard gone toast.

Rob, thanks and an under drive pulley would be dachit - EA82 harmonic damper (crank pully) is a two piece affair, tuff turnin' it.
Make a new one or turn it under the outer section, I'll look into it.
Larger pulley for the alt.? Well right now the alt output does not "kick in" untill about 1000 RPM (alt rot) barely idle speed.
I believe the problem with the factory alt is in the "in rush" current when running larger lights ect (my case anyhow) This in rush current takes out the main diodes and or will fry the VR (have seen both along with the charging light diodes go toast)

Brian, School shop class? How bout "derelict's dungeon" Remember guys I have been a "scrounge hound" for going on half century.
Most of the "stuff" you see is a direct result.

Moose the lathe in the backround is a geared head Clausing Colchester.
Smaller one behind it is an Atlas.
Le Blonds - isn't that who holds the umbrellas on the starting grid?? Or are they La Brunettes

Looks like the consensus is "let the shop handle them."

#8 archemitis


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Posted 12 October 2003 - 10:17 AM

i took one to a shop, and asked the guy to just stick an external regulator on and he said it would cost me about 80bucks, so i should just buy a new alternator, but whenever i go on a trip, i bring a spare one, cuz they always go to hell way too fast. and i dont even have any accessories, like ac.

once they are cracked open, its not fun to get them back together, but when you have more time than money, it could pay off.

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