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Split motor mounts on an EJ22>Loyale swap


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20 replies to this topic

#1 jelly man

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 02:27 PM

I finished my EJ22>Loyale swap and ran into a problem with the motor mounts. The old mounts split because of the different angle between the cross members on the Legacy vs the Loyale. The mounts on the EJ22 fit into a flatter v in the cross member. The Loyale cross member has steeper sides to the v where the engine sits. The angle is 21 degrees on the Legacy vs 30 degrees on the Loyale. This caused the mounts to split and separate on the lower inside area. After driving a little the split spread out across the rest of the rubber so each mount is now completely sheared. Each one has a split that tapers from flush at the top outside to 3/8" wide at the lower inside end. I searched the retrofitting forum and no one has mentioned this problem. Maybe my mounts are old and weak and can't take up the difference in mounting angles. Has anyone else had this problem? Are new mounts flexible enough to take up the difference and last? Has anyone changed the mounting angles and if so, how? Any advice/comments welcome please.

#2 Subarutex

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 04:06 PM

You're right, this problem isn't very well documented, and should be addressed.

On my RX (EJ20G swap) the car had the round liquid filled mounts when I originally got it. Within a short amount of time those mounts were completely tore up. Since its my go fast car, I decided to spring for some Group N STi engine mounts. I believe it was $60ea from www.subarugenuineparts.com These mounts are pretty gnarly, and I doubt they'll give out anytime soon.

On my '86 Wagon that just got running with an EJ22 I've also notice the mounts starting to split. These mounts are the square rubber ones. I haven't decided on how to replace them yet. Compounded the problem on this car though is a lack of a dogbone (upper engine stabilizer) and decent tranny mounts. But, replacing EA82 tranny mounts is like a waste of time, they practically disintegrate putting them in.

So, there is 2 more for the records. I'm interested to see how many others come forward with this problem.

Whats horrible about it is that when the engine first goes in its no problem... but then as you run it just tears them up. I found out both of mine because the exhausts started hitting on crossmembers and such.

#3 baccaruda

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 05:08 PM

hm, my wagon's round mounts have the same problem and it has 0 miles on it thus far...

#4 Numbchux

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Posted 21 March 2007 - 07:41 PM

:banghead: :banghead:

I've not noticed any problem with my swap yet.....but I haven't looked. now I'm afraid to crawl under there :eek:

especially since the donor car had 230k miles on it BEFORE I swapped it and started abusing it.

#5 baccaruda

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Posted 02 April 2007 - 03:00 PM

https://www.subaruge...products_id=657

#6 WoodsWagon

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Posted 02 April 2007 - 07:48 PM

I had to cut about 1/3 of an inch of metal off of each of the square type motor mounts. This helped them seat into the EA 82 crossmember better. They haven't torn, and I beat the snit out of my car. I put used but good tranny mounts in, and I have a pitching stopper installed too.

SO that's one EJ22 swap that hasn't had problems.

#7 Numbchux

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Posted 02 April 2007 - 08:58 PM

well, I rolled my car up on the ramps today....the mounts have not torn. They're the square mounts, and appear to have soaked up the difference in angle.

#8 Subarutex

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Posted 03 April 2007 - 11:42 AM

https://www.subaruge...products_id=657


Yes sir, thats what my RX has in it now, along with the Group N Tranny mount. Its so awesome!

I should do that to the Wagon tooo.... but I don't want to spend the money!

#9 jelly man

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Posted 03 April 2007 - 01:06 PM

I got some used mounts from a junk yard that were in good shape. I made some wedge shaped washers from 3x3x3/8" plate. They are tapered from the 3/8" on one edge to zero on the opposite edge. I drilled a hole in the center and had to grind the rear corners so they would fit flat in the recess in the cross member. I also had to take a hammer to the cross member and completely flatten the step on the upper or outer side of the recess to allow clearance for the mount. It fits good.

Attached Files



#10 Subarutex

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Posted 03 April 2007 - 09:14 PM

Awesome work!

What method did you use to get the plate that way? Just grind it down? Or did you have something more precise?

#11 jelly man

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Posted 03 April 2007 - 11:31 PM

I started to grind it down but that took too long. I had a friend have it milled where he works. The washer hangs out in front of the recess a bit which helps to support the front of the mount better also.

#12 86BRATMAN

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Posted 11 April 2007 - 10:21 PM

Well its not in a ea to ej conversion. But when I pulled the motor out of the 91 T-leg for reseal yesterday. The motor mounts were torn in half on both sides. Just fell completely apart without any provocation. Round mounts BTW, and the first ones I've seen with the locating nub.

#13 drugh

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Posted 29 May 2011 - 07:11 PM

I got some used mounts from a junk yard that were in good shape. I made some wedge shaped washers from 3x3x3/8" plate. They are tapered from the 3/8" on one edge to zero on the opposite edge. I drilled a hole in the center and had to grind the rear corners so they would fit flat in the recess in the cross member. I also had to take a hammer to the cross member and completely flatten the step on the upper or outer side of the recess to allow clearance for the mount. It fits good.


Those tapered shims look like a great idea. I am finishing up my EJ22 Loyale, and I have driven it about 5 miles and one of the mounts already sheared in half. I will get some new mounts and make some shims using your dimensions. Thanks.

#14 Gloyale

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 10:43 AM

2 words.

Pitch stopper.





There IS a reason for it. Without one, you WILL tear your motor mounts, it's just a matter of time.

#15 jelly man

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 01:39 PM

When I made my swap I made and installed a pitch stopper from the beginning before I drove it. The motor mounts split after just a little while of driving. I noticed it because the drive shaft was rubbing on the exhaust. When I looked under the car I noticed that the engine/tranny had rotated because the mounts were sheared which shifted the exhaust enough so that it could hit the drive shaft. The way I routed my exhaust it was a very tight fit. When I accelerated hard the engine rotated and the exhaust rubbed against the drive shaft. When I let off the throttle the problem lessened or vanished. I made the wedges, replaced the motor mounts and modified the exhaust slightly and I had no more problems.

#16 Scott in Bellingham

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Posted 31 May 2011 - 02:02 PM

my first EJ swap was in my EA82 white 5 door wheeler , they were the round ones , got a pitch bar, I came off a hill I shouldnt and hit the bumper so hard it broke both mounts , I took some metel and welded them up solid, worked fine after that, I have found the square mounts are stronger, what I did on the last swap was just add a short peice of square stock at the bottom to take up the gap and just over tightened the mount bolt to hold it in

#17 drugh

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Posted 08 June 2011 - 11:43 AM

I had a buddy machine some shims similar to jelly mans...and installed the group N square mounts.

Also, I rigged up a mount to use the pitch stopper from the donor legacy, along with the tabs on the SJR adapter.

The Group N mounts defintely transmit more vibration to the chassis at idle...but they feel great while driving and shifting.

The EJ22 is now firmly anchored and ready to be abused.

What is the solution for the soft EA82 tranny mounts?

#18 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 10 June 2014 - 12:46 AM

Bringin this one back from the dead!

 

Has anyone come up with anything for the trans mounts?

 

I'm considering ditching the round mounts on my donor engine and coughing up the cash for the group n's. But what's the point if my trans mounts are crap?



#19 Uberoo

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 01:25 PM

If you have a good set of transmission mounts you can fill them full of window weld urethane and that will help immensely. just go slow and fill it up in layers,and let each layer cure before adding more.The mounts have to be very clean so scrub them soap and water and an old toothbrush.



#20 ystrdyisgone

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 07:59 PM

Sounds like a great idea, thanks Uberoo.

 

Just to clarify, are you talking about filling in the open space? And maybe adding a layer to the outside of the existing rubber?

 


Edited by ystrdyisgone, 13 June 2014 - 07:59 PM.


#21 Uberoo

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Posted 13 June 2014 - 11:35 PM

Yep you want the entire thing to be one solid block of urethane.Just do a layer at a time until the whole thing is solid.Might add a bit of NVH though..

 

 

you can also chain the engine down a bit which will limit how much the engine can move on the mounts.Lets say hypotehically the engine can move 1/2" on the mounts,but if you chain the engine down it might only move 1/8-1/4".Just run a chain from the engine to somewhere solid...


Edited by Uberoo, 14 June 2014 - 12:13 AM.





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