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Good to know Dave. No going back now for me though, if it still frays the belt some, I'm going to live with it and change the belt regularly.

Yes, I saw that comparison photo in your link before I ordered the module. I don't expect it to be a simple swap and likely use parts from both the bad and good TPS in my attempt to make it work. It is unfortunate that the base broke when you took it apart. I suspected that you had a crack already but hard to tell now. On fragile parts, I grind out any rivets with a Dremel tool and small stone tips. As you discovered, a drill bit expands the soft rivets as it goes through and cracks the hole quite easily. The black base material is likely phenolic (Baklite) which is great for high heat and chemical resistance but quite brittle at times.

I have a EA82 87 DL wagon and as noted, they have two different water pump pulley heights (because of A/C options). In my case, I found the pumps and shafts were actually the same parts between the two choices. The only difference is how far they press the pulley onto the shaft to create a long or short version. I got the long pump version before I discovered I needed the short, but was able to use a hydraulic press to push the pulley onto the shaft a little further and make it work, instead of doing an exchange through Rock Auto. If you can believe the images offered on Rock Auto, there does appear to be two different pulley choices in your application. One pulley looks like it is slightly deeper than the other so it might not be like mine where I could "fine tune" the pulley location on the shaft.

Hey, posting for posterity since the OpposedForces and Wheeling Subaru links are both dead, the part number is 73711-FA000 and supersedes 73710-FA020. Here it is on Subaru's official part website: Part, Diagram, Diagram (alternate in case above breaks) I'm not sure what this thing does, but it doesn't appear to be on a vacuum routing diagram. I don't have one under my hood because the car's been fiddled with so much, but from a quick search it's not acknowledged anywhere on the diagrams I could find. Initially thought it was part of pulsed Secondary Air on California-only cars due to a diagram pointing close to it, but the solenoid shown on manufacturer data has a little filter on the end of it like an EVAP Purge Sol. Hope this helps anyone in the future as this is currently the top result on Google when looking for an intake/vacuum valve on a GC with an EJ18.

Hey, I found the part number. It's 73711FA000, superseding 73710FA020. I'm not sure what it does with the vacuum, initially I thought it was part of the pulsed secondary air injection system to clean up exhaust emissions, but that one looks has a little filter hat on it. Here it is on the official website - https://parts.subaru.com/p/49283327/73711FA000.html For some reason it's listed as part of the air conditioning system and part of the A/C diagram, despite being connected to the intake manifold. It's not listed on any of the vacuum routing diagrams as far as I've seen, which is why I think so many have had issues finding it.

I wonder if this is the turbo variant of the EA81 that you got over there but we never saw over here - except in private imports from Japan. Hopefully someone can shed some light on this!

1600 vs 1800 ? Try a search for the 1600 using the same year and see what they say.

Well, I'm still confused. I still don't know why they list two different ones on RockAuto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1984,gl,1.8l+h4,1268344,cooling+system,water+pump,2208

^ they’re talking about the EA82. The 1990 and 1991 Leone ran the EA82, they started in 1984 which was the crossover year from the EA81 models to the EA&2 models (and maybe some left overs in 1985). The EA81 continued in the Brumby/BRAT until production of those models ceased.

That looks about right and should do the job. Another way to do it is with a piece of pipe with a slot in it, weld a bar at a right angle to to the top edge (when pipe is vertical on a bench). This bar will be used to hold the pipe on the outer CV’s inner race component that holds the shaft. Use a BFH of choice and go hard on the bar section to knock the CV off the shaft. Have the other end of the shaft held in a good vice like you depict in your diagram.

That's what I thought too until I saw that they offered two different sizes on RockAuto and then found this thread:

I thought all EA81 water pumps were the same and that the height difference was in the EA82 water pumps.

It's getting to much air, don't really want to mess with the choke. It should be open when engine has reach operating temperature. That once I put my hand on the intake it levels out.

Replaced the water pump with the GMB 1601030 since it listed it being shorter. I'm not 100% but I really think I had the longer GMB pump, hard to tell from the level picture. Yes, those are monster hose clamps.

Hey folks For those of you who have gone down the path of putting a divorced transfer case and using a rear diff (plus fabrication) to serve as a front diff, how well do the diffs and cv axles hold up to the additional low range gearing? For context this is using the newer VA type 2 r160 diffs found in the Ascents and Outback Wilderness (with the 4.44 final drive) and newer style CV axles that don't have the stub out for the inner CV assembly. This would be getting mated to a Subaru dual range with 1.44 reduction Mostly curious if something like the Suzuki tcase with the extra low range gearing will be too low for the rest of drivetrain. If you've done this mod before, how well did the rest of the drivetrain hold up?

I wouldn't expect any reasonable repair to hold... And if it did, it'd just pop somewhere else next week. It's not like a tire where an object punctured it - it exploded because the material has failed with age.

They're fairly easy to clean. The one gotcha is, unless you have a full rebuild kit handy, be extremely careful not to tear the gasket between the top and middle sections. There's a little passage right in the middle that's easy to tear the gasket around, and it will run like utter spoob if you do.

I could do that with the passenger side, but the driver side stub was seized to the CV joint. I had to pull the entire axle through as an assembly and install the trailing arm and axle in all as one unit. Unless I back out the nut a bit and use two pry bars between the nut and the bearing housing. Maybe I could get a slide hammer on behind the nut, but I've had limited success with that.

I hammer my stub axles in from the back of them. They seem to take a pounding ok. I don’t rely on the torque of the hub nut to pull the stub axle through the bearing.

Johns Subaru Auto Body in Gaston Oregon has a whole box of subaru distributors, of which at least a half dozen would fit the 86. (503) 985-7110 In that distributor, you have swing weights in the bottom that can get worn, you have tiny ball bearings that can dig into two plates that makes your vacuum advance not work smoothly, you have the vacuum mechanism that can go out and cause it to run roughly or not start at all, and you have the black brains on the top. The black brains go out often.

Update… Got the fuel tank cleaned and reinstalled. The wagon fired right up on a cold start, but once it warmed up, it stalled out. Still more work ahead. I’ve been reading up on how touchy and finicky these Hitachi carbs can be. I’ve got a feeling the old varnished fuel left the carb internals gummed up, and that’s what’s causing it to run rough. To be continued…

I forgot to take a picture of the damage, but the hole was WAY bigger than 3/4 of an inch. It was on the reverse side so I couldn't see it at first. Maybe an inch and a half, right in the middle where it bends. I'm trying to rubber cement and a large rubber batch on the outside and then letting it cure over night. If that doesn't work I'll try to take the whole thing apart and do a patch on the inside and outside. If all else fails I've taken the regular struts off my, destined for the junk yard, XT6. You're right el_freddo, looks like it'll bolt right in. Sad to see my old XT go but her sacrifices will not be forgotten 😔.

89 GL 4WD. After many long nights I, a long with many other small odds and ends, got all 4 (technically 8 of em) wheel bearings done. Fronts were easy, sans the seals, I'm doing sealed bearings next time. The rears however, are confusing me a bit. I followed the FSM and used proper torque specs, (even on the rear retaining ring) new cone and spring washer. Everything was cleaned and I kept re-cleaning during assembly. But both axles have about 3-5mm yet before the cotter pin hole aligns with the castle nut. The stubs aren't pulled through far enough. I did put on new drums as well, the old outer seals were put on backwards (I double checked the FSM for their orientation) and spit grease all over the old drums and shoes. Is it possible the aftermarket drums are just slightly thicker/wider? I never measured them, they fit so it didn't occur to me to do so. I could check them but I don't want to buy new spring washers if I don't have to. Thanks :]

I doubt you’ll find replacements other than the odd second hand unit that rarely comes up for sale. It would be cool to keep the air struts, to do that you’d probably need to find a suspension shop that specialises in this sort of thing. Take the struts in and leave your platinum credit card with them too. I’ve heard the air suspension rides very well. Any 4wd L series struts will bolt straight in. That will be the easiest way to get your tex on the road while you decide on/sort out/bin the air struts.

I’m not sure but i would think the XT6 is a little different ratio and might hold the nose up somewhat, or a general body lift by about 1/2” or so. Only a guess. Such little activity here compared to years back pre- FB but if you haven’t already so check the archives.