All Activity

@nvu The noise does go away mostly, but I put it UP on ramps engine running, trans in neutral and the noise is coming from the area 'between the axles'.

I've got a 1982 GL Wagon rear driver-side door in pretty good shape (see photos). There is some minor rust in the bottom left corner of the exterior. Let me know if you're interested.

I hate things that stick up from the center console... always hit my elbow on them. Even the raised part on the power window models is too high. I usually drink bottled water with screw caps, and tuck it between the seats - with the back seat bottom folded forwards, there's a nice cubby there for my drink bottle. But I have to make sure it leans to the right, not the left, or I still get my elbow on it. lol

For functional and tough parts my go-to is Armadillo by Ninjaflex. It's a very high hardness TPU so it acts like a normal rigid polymer but it has a very high bond strength between layers. It takes some tweaking to get your settings dialed in and may require dual-extrusion or a multi material unit when you print support material. Since it bonds so well to itself, getting supports off without cutting and sanding tools isn't easy. The best overall bed adhesive that works with almost all polymers, that I've found, is normal white school glue spread with a damp paper towel (3 quarter-sized dollops spread thin). Once that dries, lay a layer of Magigoo PC bed adhesive over that. That coating will last 3-10 prints before you wash it off with dish soap and reapply. I've wanted to print a cup holder. Right now I'm just using a cardboard drink carrier I got from a coffee place on my passenger side floor board.

The path from where the key goes to the ignition switch itself is long and not direct - smoke may escape through it, but you're not getting any liquids into the switch that way. The switch is only two screws after you take off the shroud - pull the switch and work some contact cleaner in around the plastic piece in the middle. The switch can't be taken apart, so just spray a bunch around the center plastic piece, spin it back and forth a bunch of times so it wicks in, repeat repeatedly.

Im super keen to play with ABS. Messed around with PLA heaps. Designed lots of stuff to - all school based for students m. Been an awesome journey though! What model 3D printer did your boss get?

I also tried my hand at printing two different versions of the center cap retaining rings. Did one in PLA that was way too long and the other in the same ABS but it snapped on me as a I tried seating it today.

Update. Had to remove the water pump and replace and reseal with a different RTV. The water pump flavor of Permatex was garbage and never sealed up. Used "The Right Stuff" this time and replaced the leaking 90* crossover hose. Tedious as hell, but no biggie. De-pinned and replaced the alternator plug that had a broken clip on it. Finally snagged a blue steering column shroud. Didn't take a pic unfortunately. Boss got a 3D printer for Christmas and brought it to the office so I been wearing it out. Made me an ABS cupholder. Next issue: My son had noticed it a few months ago but I was finally able to see it myself last night but I had electrical smoke coming out of the ignition switch where the key goes. Honestly, didn't know that was possible. I know the PO had replaced it at one point because he said the OE was worn out. I know it had quite a bit of grease down in it. For the time being I'm leaving the battery unhooked in my shop and douched the hell out of the keyhole with electronic contact cleaner and compressed air.

Great to see you back. Enjoy your time. Lost count of how many times I’ve typed “save the dual range fivespeed” In exclamation. Good luck. I think you’ll score. Those cars mentioned, kind of parallels our own at one time. We just sold our 2006 OBW seems either you get a good one or one that’s constantly having issues. These days my daily addiction is the 2000-04 Legacy/OBW but yet to own the 2004 with the fly by wire. Having that in the 06 scared this old dinosaur. The vehicles that are fly by wire these days are many and I’m just taking a while to accept that.

egowing, I'll pull the wiper arms tomorrow - I'm assuming you want the fronts and back?

In second gear, when you clutch in does the noise go away?

I haven't posted here for years, partly due to login issues. @Turbone fixed those for me recently (thank you!). All the Subarus I had before have moved along, but I have more than ever before - 2006 Outback Wagon, 2004 Legacy Wagon, and the newest arrival is a 1994 Loyale AT my son just bought. The engine is suspect from a large oil leak that resulted in the engine's being run low on oil. We'll see about the leak and then if the noises clear up. His goal is to put a dual range MT in is but we'll see how easy that is to find...

It was a terminal connection issue coming from the driver's door to the dash harness. The hatch still only works as manual. That's less annoying than manually locking and unlocking doors from the inside so I'll leave it for now. That breaking noise I heard I believe was a locking rod disconnecting from its socket. One on the driver side was only semi-connected.

I had an 05 Outback and in chasing the dreaded P0420, I was "thrilled" to discover that there were 3 cats and 5 oxygen sensors. Somewhere there is a Subaru engineer busting a gut with laughter... and a parts manager handsomely salaried.

That’s an interesting one! A chipped tooth will make a rotational clicking noise that’s speed related and only when in the chipped gear. That noise sounds like something is grinding - and interesting that it’s only in one gear. Other thought is that it’s multiple teeth that are damaged - unlikely though as the gear would most likely strip as a result, but anything is possible. Hopefully it’s something simple.

Oddly I didn't get one tiny particle to come out by doing that. Interesting suggestion, doesn't seem like enough power but I'll be taking it apart again - ordered a $80 ebay exhaust manifold (if you've seen the 05+ manifold pretzels that's a crazy cheap price) to have some options. I'm wondering if the clog is in the header (i think it houses the catalysts), the mid pipe, or the mufflers or more than one. Hesitates around 5,000+ RPM's/flooring it (which is sometimes helpful on a steep mountain grade but others unecessary - but makes me thinking something is still clogged. Otherwise it drives totally normal. I wore ear protection but should call and apologize to the neighbor - her horses went tearing off towards her house.

1998 Subaru Forester, 5-speed, 275K miles. ONLY does it it in 2nd Gear. Drives fine in 2nd Gear. If it's not internal tranny noise, Is there anything that the linkage could be rubbing against? The shifter linkage and related parts were replaced at about 250K. Transmission Noise Thanks for feedback.

I just spoke with buddy and he reminded me that he used 2 vacuums. One blowing in and one sucking out the other end. Save the pieces and find a recycler.

I had to unjam the cassette ejection mechanism last night. After I plugged the cassette player back in, the rear wiper switch illuminated for the first time in my ownership. There's some weird electrical gremlins going on here. So maybe the door lock issue is some sort of electrical issue. I'll break out the FSM and multimeter this weekend and check out what's going on. Oh I wish it's actually a mechanical issue, those make so much more sense than those invisible electrons.

Try just banging on it and dumping out the broken bits.

Runs perfect albeit on the loud side. VAROOOM!!!

Yeah, looking at the transes side by side, you can see that the sundial is considerably larger on the 4eat than the 5mt. I ended up just buying a pair of 5mt axles... Will report after install.

I want the wiper arms! Front struts any good?? Ed egowing@tds.net

I think you’d also need the sundials to run the correct oil seal on the shaft. Male CV shafts require a larger seal, the male stub axles need a smaller diametre seal. Bit of a stuff around but worth the effort to work with what you have. I’m unsure if the auto box’s sundials will fit the manual, I’ve not tried that. The early phase 2 gearbox with stub axles and all phase 1 gearboxes’ sundials will fit your later phase 2 gearbox that takes the male CV shaft setup.

Someone once was telling someone I know that you need a pair of the automatic transmission stub shafts to fit some brand of locker into the 5mt, so I'm assuming everything is typical subaru lego.