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One of my friends said a good rule of thumb for R134a is that the pressure on both sides after the system has sat for a while should be about 5-10psi more than the ambient temp in Fahrenheit. Seems weird but also seems to check out. I added some with the AC off but it would only get up to about 65psi (both sides). When I turned the AC back on the high and low pressures had gone up a bit. After a minute or so of running it would shut off for a bit, pressures would start to equalize, then it would kick back in. I slowly kept adding more (to the low side) with the AC on until it stopped cycling on and off. Wound up adding most of a second can, probably has somewhere around the 19-23oz total it's supposed to have. Low side is now about 30psi, high side about 150psi, blows cold. Drove around town quite a bit today, never noticed the AC cycling on and off, cold the whole time. The temp gauge did spike up to about 3/4 one time I started driving but then went back down slightly below the middle where it stayed for the rest of the time. Definitely need to get some accurate temp sensors installed.

Remove fuse 14 for 1 minute. Or disconnect the battery.

It's a running, driving car with less than 150K on the car itself. If it's less than 2K on a rebuilt engine, and you can prove that with receipts, it's at least a $2000 car. I see "Mechanic Specials" and "Nice car except needs a motor/transmission" on Craigslist for $2000. Yes, asking price is one thing and selling price is another, but there have been cars I've seen in way worse shape than that with quite a few more miles start off with a $2500 asking price and are gone in a day or two. If that car works for you, and you like it, keep it and get YOUR money's worth out of it by using it. You could sell it and wind up buying someone else's problems. As they say, better the devil you know than the one you don't.

There's a module you unplug to turn off the DRL permanently. On an 02 impreza it's passenger side glovebox/footwell area near the fuel pump relay. It's probably the same area on your legacy. Download the service manual for your car and find out.

https://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old Models--/ Full service manuals, so anything you'd want to do with the car can be found here. I'd recommend saving up for a hardcopy as it's nice to have on hand. They pop up on eBay from time to time and sometimes for a really good price. Also if you're serious about repairs, keep your eyes peeled for a parts catalog as this will make tracking down parts easier. Good luck mate :]

Now that numbers are being thrown out, I'll give my 2¢. Without seeing the car in person, the most I'd offer is $500. Even if it's had work done, without seeing it with my own eyes that'd be my top dollar. However, if you sell if to a yokel in the Midwest you could get $7500+ but that's assuming it's been completely redone to factory spec. As Moosens pointed out, the value determination is a buyer's game. These cars are truly cheap and made to stay that way. These aren't your typical classics that you can put a couple grand into and get your money back. They're a money pit. The value is in the emotional attachment. Still a sick ride though.

look in opposedforces.com look at your car. find the part . Go into it and look at the usage info which will tell you what other models used the same part. Hope this helps. O.

milage on car 118500 on engine 2000

I'm after a new tailshaft for my legacy. I know that subaru tailshafts aren't technically rebuildable and that they can actually be rebuilt but I can't find anyone locally to do it so im wondering what my options are? Is the gt tailshaft the same as the none gt lagacy? Someone has stated that newer gen driveshafts are compatible, is this true and if so which ones?

Your market is teenagers and early 20's, that have no money. They would not be leaving it as is, but instead would be jacking it up, putting new larger wheels on it and turning it into a ditch banger. So the top value would probably be no more than $1500. Unless it is a show car. Since you did not mention the mileage, I assume that it is over 250,000. If it is the original engine, then cut that price in half.

does any one know where to get wiring diagrams that are readable? on my British cars there a lots of them available I get them blown up and laminated so much easier to work with

Yes but with the switch off and car still running the drl’s are on. That’s annoying and a hazard while driving. Rear lights are always far too dim if they’re even on as drl’s I still haven’t looked yet but I’d bet we can engage that parking brake lever SWITCH to stay engaged.

Much to add, but let us know your plans for it.

I don’t remember the ‘02 Subaru’s having drl’s. I know you can leave the headlights on and they turn off when you either turn off the ignition or turn them off at the switch.

I'm with Moosens, enjoy it. Loyales have a lot going for them. They're bare bones. Simple and reliable. They're not fast but it's a lot of fun getting them to keep up with traffic. Only thing I'd watch out for with any southwest cars is rubber parts dry rot, so keep an eye on your bushings, vacuum hoses, and especially your fuel hoses. Subaru has given up on these cars, it's up to us crazies now to keep em going. :]

Oh and congratulations and enjoy the F out of that thing. If you’re at all like myself you’ll use it and not pamper it too much. But that’s your choice and this far down the line with less parts availability I can see where you won’t thrash it around. Plenty pictures of my 1978 4WD wagon romping through the Barrens on the internet. But that was my choice. Car still lives on. If you hit the trails and want some company give me a message in advance and I’ll try like hell to make it down there.

So you bought it so you should be happy that you spent an appropriate amount of money on it. That’s what matters. Ask a guy like me who drove those cars but has moved beyond and I’ll be critical. Ask a guy like yourself who went out of his way (correctly it seems) to fetch a vehicle that’s tied to your heart and you’ll get a more positive appraisal. Again with opinions, I’d keep that rack on and romp through the Barrens of south Jersey. Gotta have something to put the Jersey Devil on when you drag him out of there.

I think I'am going to remove roof rack and go with the straight bars that came with it. and maybe put the street tires back on for now it came with two sets of tires and wheels

Its a former Arizona car so rust is pretty much nil, engine was rebuilt at 115000 don't know the extent of the rebuild pic to follow

B and I got a few things done on my cars. Our main focus was solving the axle issue in the 2002 Outback and I think we accomplished that. The axle in place was definitely getting overextended and the worst case for that is slightly above ride height, so not surprising that it was more of a problem when the car was overloaded. We measured a bunch of axles. Unfortunately it took us a bit to realize/remember that the axles for the press in rear wheel bearings in the strut cars are a slightly different spline than the bolt in wheel bearings in the multilink cars. Again, so much for Legos. Of course most of the axles we have are for the strut cars. The axle that had been in the right rear measures in between the pair I recently got from a junkyard. So it might be slightly shorter than the one it had replaced which might have been the main problem. Any of them would have probably been too short at the most extended position. I added a 1/4" thick spacer between the axle and the wheel bearing. With that in place there's a millimeter or two of plunge travel left at the most extended position but it will still go to full droop and be close to the limit of bottoming out the inner CV. I vaguely recall making a thin spacer years ago but there wasn't one in place when we've taken it apart. To still get a decent crimp on the axle nut with the spacer I modified it in the lathe. A contributing factor might be that we replaced the rear diff bushings the last time we replaced the axle so the diff can't move around as much now. Also changed the oil and filter and tweaked the alignment a bit. Haven't put a ton of miles on it but drove it around town quite a bit today and definitely used most of the travel, seems good so far. Definitely would have popped out by now with the old assembly. Next we worked on my green Impreza, changed oil and tweaked the alignment on that. Main project there was the AC. To recap, last summer it worked fine. A couple months ago it had no (low?) charge so I charged it up. Seemed to have much higher pressure differential than it should, would get up to about 20psi low 250psi high and shut off, pressures would converge, it would turn back on, and would continue doing that every minute or so. Assumed the orifice was clogged. Replaced the orifice and drier/filter too while we were at it. Pulled a vacuum, got down to about 20"Hg and seemed to hold that with the vacuum pump off. Put about half of a 12oz can of R134a in, runs at about 4psi on the low side and 90psi on the high side. So it still seems like there is some kind of blockage. Might try to backflush the condenser and evaporator, not sure what else to try at this point. Got a couple temp sensors that should have good calibrations for the Haltech. Plan to install those at both ends of the cooling system. Also plan to find that large heater core and small electric fan we had in the back of the black Outback and install that under the hood of the green Impreza under the passenger side hood vent. At the same time will probably add shutoff valves so we can bypass the in dash heater core to see if that helps cool down the cabin in the summer.

I wonder if we can trick the parking brake switch? If you pull up on the lever as you may already know it cuts the running lights. I use that same tactic on a certain property in the dark I like to approach in a very stealth manner. I’ve got the parking brake slightly yanked upwards just enough to kill the lights. Not even the first click. But maybe just have the switch engaged at all times? I’ve not yet lifted the cover and messed it even viewed. But I’d guess it’s the same as the generations before.

Anyone?

Also consider quality of parts. CV axles, gaskets, hoses, boots, electrical mods. The quality of all these matter greatly. A fully rebuilt Loyale (engine, drivetrain, suspension, weatherstripping, etc) is worth far far less than the sum of it's parts. Photos of the car in question would help. :]