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Tomorrow I will check the heater blower motor power connection. I vaguely remember in 2012 hurrying through a heater blower motor replacement. Not sure if that could be cause of problem at Meter Engine 15amp fuse, but I will check tomorrow.

I just now located 1991 Subaru Loyale Wiring 8X11rev3. PDF 76 mb. It's too large to upload here. Can send to you via drop box

If the fuel pump primes when the key is turned on, doesn't that mean both the ecu and the fuel pump relay are getting power, but the same fuse as the fuel pump relay is for the ignition coil, which you say isn't getting power? I must be looking at the wrong diagram...

With key OFF the Meter Engine 15A fuse is already shorted to ground. I have my work cut out for me diving into all of those clusters of wires.

Subframe got here Thursday - broke away from work a little early on Friday to get things swapped out and to do a little more clearance trimming to fit. Kind of a bummer that I had this exact functional part and ruined it, but hey, at least now it'll have some clean paint, new bushings, and no rust. easy swap onto the diff - I've got a small block of wood wedged in at the front between the diff housing and k-frame to approximate the proper angle without having everything bolted up. Here's where stuff gets interesting. In order to get the diff to sit level/parallel with the original front mounting point, I'm going to not only need to weld in some more width in the frame rails themselves, but I'll also need to add about an inch and a half to their height, extending the body of the rails downward towards the axles ever so slightly. My first step here was to trim away enough of the pinch weld to be able to make a roughly flat surface to weld in my frame modifications - the bulk of which I'm planning on making from 3x1.5" rectangle tubing or similar. The sharpie marks in the above photo indicate some symmetrical features in the sheet metal I'm using as reference points to keep my cuts somewhat even with each other on each side of the car. I ended up trimming too much towards the back and not enough to the front - this was a result of me poorly eyeballing the end location of the front diff mount while marking up my cuts. No biggie - cut a little more off the front, I just have to be sure to reweld up these pinch welds when I go and box in the rest of the frame and mounts in. Almost got lucky enough be able to reuse another feature - the middle mount hole for the moustache bar, but it's about 3/4" too far to the rear, and there's too much vertical space to make up for anyway. Rough plan here is to use a boxed-in section of rectangle or square tubing to take up the bulk of the vertical and horizontal space between the existing frame and the subframe, and then use a CNC-cut plate welded to that to take up the rest of the remaining clearance and to get the mounting holes in the right place. Once I have all the pieces loosely made, I'll start bolting and tacking things together starting from the frontmost mount of the diff, ending with the bushing mount plates. Theoretically this should put everything where it needs to be as far as the diff is concerned as long as I'm careful to measure along the way to keep things even from side to side and perpendicularly. I considered taking another semi-reversible approach here and design a bracket/adapter that would require less of a significant welding operation, but considering the forces involved with suspension I decided to bulk the frame itself up and keep things as stiff as I can, and let's all be honest with ourselves here - at this point there's no way this Brat is going back to stock anyway so beyond the aesthetic preservation of the exterior, I'm giving myself leeway to adjust what I need to to get things functional. I'm gonna make a trip to the metal depot this week for some other pieces and parts - should have another update on this soon. Once the diff is mounted securely, I'll be remixing the lateral links, then finding a good mounting solution for the trailing arms, before finally moving back to the wheel wells, CVs, and strut towers. Really hoping to have this thing back on its own tires by the end of the year. Probably kind of ambitious, but hey, so is this whole endeavor. Until next time! -M

anyone?

EA82, SPFI, 5MT D/R. My engine runs *okay* and can do short back an fourths to work alright. However, it has a misfire. The entire throttle body (injector, TPS, and regulator included) is a "good used" part. My fuel pump is also noisy and I have no idea when it was last replaced. TPS is properly setup. Used the 2 feeler gauges. Once I've been driving for a while, sometimes it'll run like a top. Buttery smooth. Other times it idles rough. It doesn't buck the car side to side but it does vibrate. A noticable gas smell comes from the driver side and the plug for cylinder #4 has more carbon buildup. I've had the engine stall 3 times after coasting to the bottom of a hill and pushing in the clutch. My guess is the rich mixture floods as I'm coasting and not burning all of it off. Then once I clutch in and the RPM's drop, the mixture is too rich and it just stalls. I've swapped in hotter plugs with a tighter gap, cleaned the MAF, and checked my timing (15deg BTDC. I'm using carbed cams on a SPFI setup). Coil, alternator, plug wires, battery cables, PCV, and CTS are all new. I don't have any codes. All engine hoses are new. My guess is it's the fuel pump, injector, regulator, or the distributor. (Cap and rotor only have about 3k miles on them). Could also be a tuning issue. I have not fiddled with the idle control. Any thoughts or ideas? :]

Yeah, getting stronger bolts just so you can over-torque them further before they break seems like the exact opposite of how to fix that, or any other, problem... at best you'll end up with a warped pan that will be hard to ever make seal again...

I read in a discussion that the OEM gaskets (like intake manifold gaskets, cam tower oil passage o-rings, etc) are the only gaskets to be used. This is due to the density of the cork "cells". Aftermarket gaskets aren't the proper cork. Allegedly. I used an OEM gasket on my rebuild without sealant and it worked just fine. I also cleaned the sealing surface on the block as well as the oil pan. You can still buy the oil pan gaskets new and they're around $5 USD. Only downside is you may have to order it. RTV is faster and arguably would work just as well. Also the bolts shouldn't be torqued. In my opinion this is a hand tool only job. You can use a screwdriver and "2-finger tight" is plenty. For the rear bolts I use the longest 1/4" extension I have with a swivel on the far end. Snake the extension in from the side and use the aforementioned screwdriver to steer the socket. A shallow socket holds the bolts nicely. If you have the engine out then just use a screwdriver. To drop the pan you must first angle the pan out from between the engine mounts then rotate it 180°. Operation is the opposite for the install, start with the pan backwards. If you over torque the gasket, especially non-OEM gaskets, the gasket will split. It is wood, after all. This creates little openings for oil to leak from. The instinct to tighten the bolts makes the issue worse.

My 1991 Loyale engine [non-turbo] suddenly shut down last night. The Meter Engine 15A fuse was blown and after blowing another swapped in good 15A fuse, I now need to find where is that short in the ignition. Could be a broken wire in the key switch causing a short, or a short in that lower left wire spaghetti mess under the dash behind that panel next to the fuse box. When the engine stalled, I just cranked it over attempting a restart, but no ignition. There was still FULL BATTERY POWER to EVERYTHING except the ignition. Timing belts checked ok. Can hear fuel pump priming with ign turned on. Dash board voltage meter stopped functioning at all. Good battery and alternator. All four fusible links near battery are still ok. Tomorrow I'll disconnect the battery and poke around with a continuity probe. First thing I'll check is the O2 sensor wire to the front catalytic convertor. Real easy to get at.

FWIW: I replaced the BPT - back pressure transducer - that sits on top of the EGR valve and has 4 vacuum lines connected to fix my p0400. These are readily avl. on most EGR subarus from the '90s and Toyotas - I used a (used) Toyota version on my '96 Legacy w/the 2.2.

Hi There, Ive got a '99 Outback and a '95 Legacy Wagon. Both throwing P0400 codes. Tested both EGR valves, cleaned them, and both hold vacuum. Cleaned out different tubes in the EGR system, and still getting the 400 code. Then tested both solenoids and they both actuate when given power. Tested the plug and the plug gives 12 volts. My specific question is about a vacuum test - the solenoid has 2 vacuum ports and when I blew thru them without power, one let air thru and the other port did not. Is this supposed to happen? Or are they both supposed to be closed? Just wanted to make sure this is my issue before buying the part as they are $100 each. Here is a link to the part on Ebay: https://ebay.us/m/PihAzZ Additional detailed question that you can answer or not. The initial code came from the '99, and my '95 did not have a code at the time. So I put the EGR VALVE from the 95 onto the 99 to see if the VALVE was the issue, but the code came back. I think I may have also put the VALVE from the 99 on the 95 and then, to my memory, the 95 then threw the 400 code as well. So I may have caused an issue there. If that helps you diagnose this, great, if not, my main question is about the vacuum. Thanks for the help!

12 volt guy start defeat KISS

Best to just leave the car unlocked. As much as it would suck to have the steering column plastics destroyed I'd rather the plastics be destroyed than glass being smashed. Honestly who would steal an older gen Subaru? And a manual at that. All modern cars are far quicker and blend into traffic far better than these anemic econoboxes. I could see a BRAT being stolen, maybe. In general though these subies have a face only an owner could love.

They go off randomly and constantly, with a roughly 100% false positive rate, pissing off neighbors, shoppers, and everyone else, while not doing a thing to reduce crime, because no one pays any attention to one going off whatsoever, other than contemplating a brick through a repeat offender's windshield.

^ this. although this thread seems like it’s missing the original post/question…

They slow you down bushy tails?

Turns out the IAC needed adjusting. Part of my problem (in my shop) is having too many parts laying around. This GL10 was a rebuild from the ground up and I had parts from my RX laying around also. Which means multiple IAC's to choose from (and not keeping stuff separated). So I grabbed the best looking one and cleaned it, then installed it on the GL. Only messed with it once, after getting the engine running, but knew too much fiddling is a bad idea. I got the car back to my shop last week and after going thru everything (again), I tried a little adjustment on the IAC. It worked like a charm, no more surging and fuel dump is almost gone. No more smoke after startup. It went home last night and the owner took it to work. He txt'd me and said it stumbles, shakes and farts at first, then runs better when its warmed up. I have the 2 10in fans on a switch now, the engine struggles to get to Op Temp but manages after several miles. Big reason is the radiator is a BIG 2 row aluminum rad (In prep for NA/T), so we may find a smaller rad to run temporarily. Now he needs to find another 5spd D/R trans as the current one is almost gone

I personally consider car alarms a nuisance that should be banned...

Or use a new gasket with a bit of silicone on both sides...

2008 still too new for me!

I decided to not get a the XT based on turbo failures. Often when looking at an XT for sale the seller would say something about the turbo just replaced. Also I didn't want to buy expensive premium fuel. I got a 2009 Subaru Outback special edition with 95,000 miles on it instead.

A friend of mine is getting two codes on a 2012 Tribeca Tans codes P0710 and P0700. They will clear but come back in a month or so. Clunk and then the codes show up, otherwise drives fine. What do you think?

Go to Ebay and buy longer and also high strength bolts. What you have in their now are the soft M6-1.0 x 13 mm long bolts. If you tighten them, they snap off. Go with the 10.9 high strength grade flare head bolts in the 16 mm length and tighten them up until you can't tighten them anymore. This will really cut back on the oil pan leaks. At the back of the oil pan, you can do some light grinding of the cross frame in order to get a 1/4" socket set in there with some swivel end attachments. It requires a 10 mm end socket and you would want the 1/4" version of that.

I found a NOS factory security system. I bought it for the novelty and don't know if I'll use it (maybe if I ever get an RXII). Car theft isn't an issue in my area, thankfully. P/N: SOA386R100 There's still a couple available on eBay, there's photos there. Has anyone had experience with this specific factory security system? I'm curious how it works if anyone knows. The switch labeled "shock" intrigues me. :]