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size is good but really, tires should be 'identical' - same brand, model, AND size of course, and near each other in wear level. Same size but different model is no good - identical. that said, some folks have done 3 trans fluid drain/fill/drive a few days - type cycles and had luck freeing-up gummy deposits that may interfere with solenoid/valve operation. the clutch pack in the tail section of the transmission may be bad. under the hood in the fuse box there should be a spot for a spare fuse - any size fuse - that puts the car in FWD mode, you could try that as a diagnostic and temporary fix. you are experiencing 'torque bind' , but it isn't clear yet why.

Loads of info on this conversion - it's been done 1000 times before! Sorry to bust your bubble but it's not a direct drop in as such. Power steering: you'll need a PS rack from a touring wagon or sedan then have a set of adapters to mate the lines to the rack - or get custom PS lines made up. Cruise control: you could possibly use the EJ factory gear - just means more wiring and nutting out how to mount all the hardware in the engine bay. Or go aftermarket. The AP60 unit works well for me in my brumby and L series ABS: well you could probably do it if you can mount all the sensors for each wheel, keep the wiring to run it all and bend up new brake lines to fit the ABS module. You'll have to relocate the battery to the other side of the engine bay. You need to cut down the wiring loom to get the ECU to run the engine. There are ppl in Oz that can do this for you if you're not game. Or use the whole loom from the donor vehicle - just splice in the plugs from the brumby loom to run the tail lights, indicators, parkers and headlights. The EJ steering column can be made to fit to keep the combination switch for indicators and hi/low beam etc. it'd probably be easier than cutting down the loom to do what you want to do. You can fit the AWD box - you'll need to fabricate the gearbox mount points - again it's been covered. You'll also need to modify the shift linkages and have a custom tail shaft made up. It's recommended that you do a two piece to avoid vibration unless the company building it does a top effort on their balancing. Or you can get an adapter plate (look up Subarino AE on bookface) to mate to your current pt4wd box to the EJ engine using the EA flywheel and clutch. But being that you're a P plater I'd recommend the gearbox mod. One issue with this is that it'll be mismatched to the rolling tyre diametre compared to the EJ equipped vehicle it came from. There are ways to sort this with a diff ratio swap but unless you know what you're doing I'd recommend someone else doing it for you or put up with the 2wd and learn how to drive appropriately. Also best to check out what engineering requirements are needed with the Nsw RTA before you start this conversion. Ej22 conversions are very common and an ej20 is a good swap too if capacity is an issue for the RTA. You could go all out with a five stud conversion to run the EJ brakes as well. Dfyol might have a set of rear hubs up for grabs to do this brake conversion - this is the key piece needed to do this brake conversion. Have a scroll through the different threads in this forum, there are a couple of EJ conversion related threads on the go recently. And there are many more before them if you use the search function All that said, it's well worth the effort, especially if you keep it sleeper with the stock look if that's what you're after Cheers Bennie

put a rag over the belt and around the area.

Its hard to say at this point , but your having early symptoms of torque bind. Install the fwd fuse and try. EDIT) Great minds think alike Tex

What year Forester? Do you mean this O-ring This Clamp? Just use a pair of slip-joint pliers

I’m guest east coast guy. see you all weekend.

I'll be there on Saturday!

I attempted to put together a comprehensive set of notes for the XT site since there's a number of confusing options that some members have run into recently...2WD/4WD, turbo/nonturbo, air suspension, EJ or XT6. It could use some tweaking but i've already spent a TON of time that i probably don't have on it. I figured it could be useful here. 5 Lug Conversion Update Read the “Variations” list at the bottom to see if any of the additional notes apply to you. Front: Control arms. XT6 control arms. XT6 and Impreza ball joints are identical. Subaru ball joint part # 21067GA050. If using an XT6 control arm, get the bolt that holds the arm to the vehicle. Some EA82's will require drilling the holes out bigger for the XT6 bolt. It is also possible to ream out the EA82 control arm to accept the XT6/Impreza ball joint. Hubs: XT6 hubs or EJ hubs. Sruts: XT6 struts or Impreza struts. (You can mix and match XT6/EJ hubs and struts but the lower strut mount will require some tweaking if you don’t keep them the same.) Axles: (Non-turbo see notes below) Turbo's Only: XT6 axles (or EA82 Turbo axles) for XT6 hubs. EJ axles for EJ hubs. Tie Rods: XT6 or EJ tie rod ends - Subaru part #'s 31320GA190 RHS and 31320GA200 LHS. EA82 tie rods are a bit short but might work. Brakes: XT6 calipers, brackets and rotors. 1999 Chevy Cavalier rotors are a much cheaper and easy to find equivalent. EJ brake notes below. Rear: XT6 rear hub assemblies (2WD notes below) ***NOTE*** For Impreza or EJ stuff mentioned above, hubs and struts should be from a 1993-2001 Impreza, including WRX up to 04 STi. Legacy hubs should work to up to 2004 at least, so the options are wide. Variations: The following are various items that may affect the above list: *** Non-turbo EA82’s***FWD Manual Impreza transmissions have an axle that should work - 1993 should do the trick. Non turbo EA82's have 23 spline inner axle joint (all XT6's, EJ's, and Turbo EA82's have 25 spline and there's no issue). The FWD manual impreza axle also has a 23 spline inner. Another option is to build your own axle...swapping the inner non Turbo joint onto whatever axle you want to use - XT6, Turbo EA or EJ axle. If you have an automatic transmission the axle stubs pop out, they just pull right out and pop back in. This being the case, you might be able to pull out your non-turbo splined stubby shafts and install turbo splined stubby shaft. Then just follow the directions above - using axles to match whatever hub you're using. This little trick isn't possible on manual trans as the stubs don't pull out. ***2WD*** If your EA82 is 2WD you will either need 2WD XT6 rear hubs or use entire 4WD XT6 rear hub assemblies (trailing arms and all) ***Air suspension note*** If you want to retain air suspension you will need XT6 front air struts or to see if Legacy front air struts will work. I am also told the Legacy air struts are too large for the EA82 strut towers as well, like the note above about EJ struts. ***Brake options*** For EJ brakes up front you will need to do a rear ebrake conversion as well via Nissan 200SX rear calipers. EJ brakes do not have the emergency brake up front, so converting to front EJ brakes essentially removes your emergency brake. I am assuming that someone doing this swap knows they need NEW WHEELS!

I was thinking about this the other day. and have been looking for an old EJ ball joint to try in the 4-lug knuckles I've got. but haven't come up with anything yet. gary, the 2WD notes are pretty much completely wrong :-\ only way to use 4WD hubs on a FWD car, is to use 4WD trailing arms, the bearings are completely different. these don't need to be from an XT6..... you also don't need to disassemble the axle. all EA cars have a spindle that the hub rides on. just pound out the roll pin and remove the axle. as for the front struts. it's not the legacy struts that are the problem. it's the upper perches. pre 1999 Legacy front springs aren't tapered like the impreza ones. the 125mm upper perches fit fine, but the 146mm ones don't. why on earth would you say it's not safe to ream out the ball joint hole?!?! that's ludicrous. messaging and coaxing is not a good idea, but to ream it out with the right equipment would be just fine. also, it's already covered in the USRM, but so is alot of what you've got here. frequently XT6 control arms use a larger bolt at the crossmember. just make sure to keep that bolt when you buy the control arms, and drill out the hole in the crossmember. rear ebrake doesn't need to be 200SX calipers. 240SX ones work too (slightly different Ebrake mechanism, but same idea). and EJ rear backing plates can be modified to bolt onto the EA trailing arm. in which case, the only XT6 parts needed are the hubs. AND you'll be able to use the EJ drum-in-disc ebrake mechanism. rguyver has documented that modification. This also makes EJ rear brake upgrades (like the H6 rotors) possible. EA82 tie rod ends work fine. if they are indeed shorter, I wouldn't dare use anything else. in order to get my car down to zero toe, I only have about 1/4" of unused threads on the tie rods. anything longer would make it impossible to get the alignment correct I remember hearing that EA81 tie rod ends are shorter. I've been trying to get my hands on one to confirm this, but haven't without just buying a new one. decent write-up. but to be honest, it's obviously written by someone who hasn't done it.....