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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/11/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    This is a very common issue, just use a small punch and remove it. I can't tell you how many times this rolls into the shop. 5 minutes to punch it out and turn 180 degrees.
  2. I have a dual range transmission that needs a home.
  3. Don't split it. Replace the oil pump with a 10 mm Subaru pump. replacing the rings is optional but I wouldn't on a 2.5. Water pump with a high quality one. Subaru #642 head gaskets, only O.E. timing components.
  4. What gear oil are you running? Put Subaru HPGO in it. GD
  5. Hey, Subasaurus, great idea using the copper tube for terminals!! That's probably the base for commercially made terminals anyway, they just "tin" it to keep it from turning green. I too love the butane soldering irons. They work great and are completely portable. I do love soldered connections, but you have to keep a couple of things in mind: Connections subjected to high vibration, could potentially fracture because all the "give" in the wire was taken away with soldering. I personally have never seen an example of this, and don't believe it is as critical as some claim. Especially if the wire is supported with the vibrating component, well past the wicking point. An additional mechanical connection is preferred, (and required by the NEC in most cases, even though not relevant to automotive systems) because given enough current and resistance, solder will melt. Those ratchet crimpers do a great job up to a #8 wire. Especially the ones with the dies that actually stuff the open ends of the terminals down into the center of the wire like OEM.

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