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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/18/18 in all areas

  1. Here is my new 1983 subaru brat with 99k original miles on it after my last one got totalled out by a drunk driver...
    1 point
  2. I removed the MAP sensor, and shot out the little probe tube with MAF sensor cleaner. I was on the way to the junkyard, to grab a few more MAPs, and the car reacted well. Well enough that I turned around, came home, put it into the garage, and gave it a real good soaking. I'm going to disco the battery, let it sit a while, and maybe it will relearn some new manners. Thanks for the tip!
    1 point
  3. Same here. Just tried to reorder a smaller quantity. I have left over RH parts, if someone is willing to trade for some NOS LH parts.
    1 point
  4. New user? I've been here since 2010. I needed to reset my password, and now I'm new? I wish it were that easy for everything else....
    1 point
  5. My local dealer says the LH side, the -200 P/N is NLA, both in person and via their online portal. They still show as available online, so I tried placing a web order, only to have my order cancelled. I just placed an order from the link above, so we'll see if they cancel this one too.
    1 point
  6. Since you only removed one side, the other side should be in the correct position for the lash to be OK still. And when it comes to differential carrier bearings, tighter is typically better. To the point that differential shops will use case spreaders to get more shims in the carrier bearings for additional pre-load. Roller bearings like pre-load. They do not like to be loose, and when the case expands it's going to expand at twice the rate of the carrier because aluminium has twice the coefficient of thermal expansion. I wouldn't sweat it too much just get it tight. Make sure that the carrier is centered and gravity isn't pulling it down and keeping you from getting it seated. GD
    1 point
  7. Got an alert the other day that the WCR-417 windshield gaskets are back in stock, unknown quantity. The part number is aftermarket but they fit the ea81 series sedans and wagons, (and I think maybe brats too). Pricing is about $60
    1 point
  8. Body: 1986 Subaru BRAT Engine: EJ25D block, EJ22 single port heads, Delta Cams (torque grind), Stainless steel UEL headers, Under drive pully, K&N drop in filter, JDM EJ25D injectors, Forester oil cooler, NGK plugs and wires, Red top Optima battery Transmission: 3.9 XT6 R&P, RX gear set, 1.59:1 low range gears in an RX case with FT4WD and diff lock, XT6 clutch kit, Custom one piece drive line, Interior: removed carpet and all stereo stuff, rubberized the floors, installed early model Legacy seats, added some switches and push button start, B&M shifter, Isuzu Trooper inclinometer, Other: Duel smoke stacks, trailer tongue box installed in the bed, BOSS 3in lift, Rancho rear shocks, BOSS front and rear bumpers, rear disc brakes, LSD rear differential, Front wench, AA 15in rims, Boxed and reenforced EA82 control arms, EA82 front Axles (widen the front wheel base), Welded and reenforced front radiator support, Custom grill, Custom taillight and front corner marker protectors, Big mud flaps, Duel yellow KC fog lights, Added power steering (EA81 rack and JDM EJ pump), Images: See more images here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3920753/1986-subaru-brat/
    1 point
  9. that is one of the most depressing pictures i've seen all week...
    0 points
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