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vacuum gauge testing can sometimes be helpful - you can find lots of info and videos on-line how to use it. Often a free loaner from a parts store. clogged exhaust, burned valves, etc. can sometimes be found with it. check timing, if it's jumped a tooth, that could kill power. bad knock sensors sometimes won't throw a code, they will kill power as the timing is severely retarded. one of the few parts where cheap aftermarket seem to work fine for people. try a battery reset for the ECU and see how the car runs better IMMEDIATELY afterwards. If it is just as bad, you're probably looking for something physical, if it runs better, you probably have a sensor or its wiring bad somewhere.

80% cogged idler 15% water pump 5% broken belt GD

Yep. Drive it all the time. It gets the garage, my SUV gets parked on the street.

In case it helps someone out in the future, the pinout for my 99 Legacy Outback trailer wiring connector is: 12V battery right turn brake left turn running lights ground Looking at plug on car with catch at the top. This is probably the same for many years and models of Subarus although they have different wire colors. The converters seem to use standard wire colors: white = ground brown = running lights yellow = left red = brake green = right large red or black = battery + The converter I got from a junk car seems bad, the left turn light is on when you plug it in.

The rear is already disengaged when the engine is off since hydraulic pressure is what actuates the center diff clutches IIRC. The problem is towing an auto on the ground even with just the rear wheels on the ground will continue to turn parts that are always engaged with no fluid flow to lubricate anything. Really easy way to burn up your transmission. So no you don't want to tow auto awd on a dolly without disconnecting the driveshaft to the rear end.

2007 Legacy Outback FSM, SOHC section https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU