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Also read about some idling issues when changing cams. Is changing the cams vital?? thanks

'99 EJ25D Lego OB block EJ22 cyl head with Cometic gasket '94 EJ22 cyl head, Delta 200 grind cams('97 mechanical rockers + cams), '99 EJ25D Cometic PN tag

The cranks and rods are not the same. They are the largest major differences between. Though the blocks are different too. Early DOHC 2.5 blocks have Small 48mm rod journals, and a #3 thrust bearing location. The water jackets extend all the way down the walls of the entire cylinders. This leaves the cylinders left very tall and open all around, leading to resonance at the top and contributing to the head gasket failure rates. The small rod journals are known to fail often too. I'm not a fan of these blocks, although they do make GREAT power and rev QUICK (small journals, less crank mass) SOHC 2.5 blocks use larger 52mm rod journals (like all the rest of the EJs) and move the thrust to #5. The water jackets at the top side of the block around the base of the cylinders is decreased. This allows faster coolant flow, less stagnant pockets under the crossover. It also gives more meat at the base of the cylinder to prevent resonance. These blocks had pistons that come right to zero at the block deck, later ones with AVLS, the pistons actually come way out of the block. The 99's were a combo. They are basically the old DOHC 2.5 pistons stuck into the new 2.5 block. 52mm journals, #5 thrust, sturdy cylinders. There were some changes in Oil pump rotor thickness too, though I am not clear on which are in what.....but they are all interchangeable, so find a 10mm pump if you don't have one.

I'll have to look at the camber plates on my RX tonight to see how they're oriented. I think most of the adjustment is already used up. @NumbchuxI wouldn't modify the strut towers (except to add the Group A reinforcements). Camber plates are pretty simple to fab, so I'd probably just cannibalize some inexpensive plates for their bearings/hardware and fab an EA82-specific plate. I would really love some top-of-the-strut-tower camber plates like Ground Control has for Imprezas, but the geometry of the strut tower leaves me scratching my head. I'd love to incorporate some sort of master cylinder brace and a triangulated strut tower brace too, if I can squeeze all that functionality into one place...

I've never redrilled strut towers. On a couple cars, I had to open up the holes a touch with a dremel, but that's it. Lengthening the control arms isn't a major geometry change, gets done every day on MacPherson cars. Don't worry about it. As long as your welds are strong, and it doesn't bind the joint, let 'er buck.

Wow thanks for the great little writeup! I've been doing a lot of research on swapping a B series in but I don't think I can get the engine to spin backwards (Honda engines spin counterclockwise...) without spending a lot of money. I could do a K swap but then the engine cost is much higher (plus the adapters needed). So until I have enough money to rotary swap it I think I'll keep a Subaru engine in it lol! EG33 is my favorite subie engine and I know its been done before so I think that's what Ill end up doing. Theres certainly a little bit more work involved but I'll do it for that amazing sound. EJ would be the simplest (probably smartest too) and if your swap is anything to go by nowadays, pretty affordable too.

New boots: The “other one” (offroad L series) is partially covered in mud atm. Cheers Bennie

@Whitestorm - no worries in asking. My conversion was done over ten years ago and it’s still running sweet. And I reckon mine is on the cheaper side as I took my time to do some research as to what I wanted/needed. I purchased parts when sales were on at the parts yards. I also put my L gearbox in the front EJ cases to avoid an adaptor plate and EA flywheel/clutch setup. All up, I probably came in at $1200AU. This was spent over a 12 month period with all work carried out by myself. That’s an educated guess. It could be less. Actually, this is what I remember: engine $125 - 50% sale loom donated ecu slipped in with the engine gearbox $175. Had an ea box spare. Mods = my time. New seals ?? timing belt ~$250 rear seal $30 efi pump $150 efi rated rubber fuel hose ~$50 (18 months later after lift came) exhaust 2.25inch cat back $450. Seems I was about accurate not including odds and ends like male/female spade connectors, aftermarket fuse panel, loom wrap and tape... all prices are in Australian dollars no doubt your market will be different and I’m sure thing’s will have changed somewhat since my conversion. And what I’ve done isn’t the only way to do it - others will have experience to share and there’s are already many threads about it on the forum I’m about to crack into the same thing for my brumby soon. Just waiting to hear from the engineer Cheers Bennie

Here's 2 ways to do it. No need for some fancy relay. Simple, "anytime" setup. Makes it so light can be operated at any time, regardless of Ig. or Lights. 02061502_zpscsqtiizo by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's a bit more complicated. This setup would be only operational with Ig. key on. The SPDT switch allows the lamp to be set to be open and on whenever lo beams are on, or to be on constantly whenever at least the marker lights are on. 02061503_zpskfpseh4g by Dans Subaru, on Flickr