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Has anyone managed to tuck the exhaust above the transmission crossmember on their EJ swaps in EA81? If you have can you please post pictures of what you’re setup looks like after the y pipe. Mine goes beneath the radius rod/trans mount and kills my ground clearance.

I don't know who did your exhaust but mine is tucked up just like the original. I didn't lose any ground clearance at all. Sorry I can't get pictures but I only had to make three cuts and welds to make it fit. I was even able to hammer and reinstall the shields.

All the new/ cleaned up parts. Just waiting on EVEN MORE PARTS

My answer was easily the most light hearted...lol! My swap took me 8 months to complete, and cost about $1000 due to a running car for $500, which i sold everything else. I also drilled the flywheel myself, a custom is $200. Your wiring harness can be cut for you for $200, you pay for shipping back and forth usually. So there are different approaches. If you want to do this, but don't want to learn electronics, be ready to pay more, but it's plug and play. But it's almost a must to have an ej in an L body these days. I highly recommend a phase one ej22.

Point in fact - it's absolutely too much trouble. For the same amount of work you could do something that's actually FUN. Like swap an LS into an older F body or even a C/K truck/blazer. And yeah - it's quite a bit of trouble. Very few people out there that can do this in a weekend and have it running (I'm saying this AS ONE OF THEM). For most that attempt it - they spend a month or more (sometimes years) getting them operational. The end result isn't that worthwhile. The rest of the car is mechanically unable to support the power of something like a 20G turbo. That would tear the Loyale in half like Jesse Ventura with a phone book. GD

wheel bearing. To tell which side - your hunch is probably right. Ride in the back or trunk or have someone stand outside while you drive past them from both sides. Check for play Or just wait once it’s bad enough you’ll tell.

Changed the knock sensor already too... But good news. It's running. well after all the gears were changed, injectors, couple broken wires, broken connecting clips, new fuel, new sensors, correct key, and new plugs, re-fitted radiator and as much of the parts that came with the car I started looking at vacuum hoses and water hoses. It turned out that the previous owner had put a water hose into a vacuum hose tail on the inlet manifold. And of course flooded the fuel/air mix with water. Silly mistake, but easily done. Sorted that out, and bango...started up straight away, ran like a dream. Thanks for help, and good luck luck with your projects. Cheers for now

The 2L phase 1 Foz box got the respectable 1.447:1 low range. This will literally drop into a phase 2 dual range box. If running 4.44 diffs, some crown wheel grinding work may be needed, I’m not 100% sure on that one. Having read a number of Subaru manuals when building my dual range box, there’s a phase 2 box with this low range from the factory. I believe this is from or in some European markets, maybe in the Russian market too. I’ve personally never seen one of those. Another way to do it is what I’ve done with my gearbox in my L series: Find one of those L series AWD gearboxes with the locking centre diff. Ensure the centre diff isn’t shot. If it is walk away unless you want a parts box. Best way to check them is have the centre diff removed and check the backlash. Select the desired diff ratio you want to run. You will need an EJ crown and pinion gearset of the desired ratio. You use the EJ pinion shaft with the EA AWD pinion to cut and shut a hybrid EA AWD pinion shaft (longest produced by Subaru) with the EJ pinion gear at the other end. Be specific with your measuring to ensure you get a pinion shaft of the same length back. L series 1.59:1 low range will drop straight into this gearbox. Downers on this build: - it’s expensive and replacement parts are hard to find - in the states you’re stuck with the EA AWD drive gears as the upper gearset is dual range specific - you would still need to run an adaptor plate and EA flywheel/clutch After doing all of that you would probably be better off importing a low km dual range phase 2 box and putting the “awesomest” Subaru low range in. There are plenty of threads on the web as to how to do this (I recommend the write up by Phizinza on his forum offroadingsubarus.com). My L AWD centre diff lock is mated to the back of a phase 2 dual range box from a Foz with 4.111:1 diff ratio (wish I got the 4.44:1 diffs but $$$$s), I’ve matched the speedo drive gear so my speedo is bang on accurate and have the L low range with auxiliary oil feeders over the low range gears for cooling purposes more than lubrication reasons. For my build in the L series this is a great setup as it matches diff ratio to tyre size (27 inch), bolts up to the EJ, uses EJ clutch and flywheel - and the back end of the gearbox bolts into all the L series bits it needs to without any mods. Awesome box, I love it! I hope that’s not as clear as mud! Cheers Bennie

Subaru Forester XT. However Forester STI 4.44 5spds are pretty cheap to get. $4-500 from an importer. Japan also got dual range AFAIK since the importers from Japan sometimes have them. But the Aus/ EDM/ JDM EJ dual range is only 1.19:1 reduction in low range as I recall. The 4.44 turbo trans would do better

Yes they are taller ratios, but they’re the ONLY TWO available in the EA dual range gearboxes, and the 3.7 is the most common. As for the Aus or Euro dual range, he’ll probably want to drop the good low range into one of these, and can swap in the 4.44:1 diff ratio (WRX box will have one, and a “matching” 5th ratio for cruising). A decent low range AND the 4.44 will require shaving the crown wheel for clearance it’s the larger low range gears. And yes, the Aus or Euro dual range box will drop right in without any mods other than a console swap for the dual range lever. The cheapest option on the table in my view is the EA dual range. Then live with the diff ratio change. To get a gearbox from Aus to the US (if customs is operational stateside!) would cost ~$AU700. Once you factor in finding a decent second hand box you’ll be well over a grand and quickly headed to two grand if you get a low km box. Cheap boxes will usually have +300k km on them or a centre diff issue and can be had for ~$AU250. Cheers Bennie

Or even drop to 3.7. Adaptor plates availble from Oz: SUBARU EJ SERIES ENGINE TO EA SERIES GEAR BOX ADAPTORS on Gumtree http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/1179605973?utm_campaign=socialbuttons&utm_content=app_ios&utm_medium=social&utm_source=sms You will also need the EA flywheel and beef up the EA clutch. From memory the clutch is cable operated so that bit is easy Cheers Bennie