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And here's some dodgy photos of the tool I made, looks rough but certainly gets the job done: Cheers Bennie

Too good to not share! Looked all over the forums and could not find where to buy a ring nut tool or easily make one. The tool straight out of oreilly's : Part number is W1271, probably sold at most oreilly's : All you have to do is cut two of the tabs off like so : Now you have a ring nut tool you can use with an impact! There are 4 notches in the ring nut. Put the two prongs from the tool into the two smaller notches. I was a bit scared that the two tabs would shear off. But after hitting it 3 minutes straight with an impact it held up fine. Sure beats using a chisel and a BFH to knock the ring nut out! Best part is that it was only $20 from my local oreilly's.

Likewise, I made my own tool for the job. All tool steel, 2 pieces welded together. Big wrench handle to apply a BFH to when needed.

I made my own tool and it utilises all four slots in that nut device. I use a large adjustable shifter on it without any issues. Thereare pics of it floating around the interwebs. Too hard basket to find one on my phone atm. Cheers Bennie

I would love to have your machining/welding skills !

The loyale also has an "oil" light in the panel to the left of the steering column. When I do swaps on later Loyales or DL's with no gauge, I route the wire to the light. Could be done on this car too.......I just got used to seeing the "zero" reading as a normal. Those things suck. Leaks waiting to happen. Shifts when you go to spin off the old filter. Blah....Better to use a extension

suprunner, Two things come to mind. Higher revs put out higher oil pressure. I see this all of the time on my Duramax. The oil pressure gauge varies greatly from idle to higher rpms, rising as the rpms rise. And change that PCV valve. My 1990 300ZX started leaking oil out of the rear main seal at about 50 000 km. Not a great deal, but enough to leave a 3 inch circle of oil on the garage floor after every drive. I changed out the PCV valves (that car had two) and no more leaks. Obviously the built up pressure in the crankcase caused the leak because of the plugged PCV valves. Once they were replaced, the crankcase could release the pressure, and the leaking stopped for the next 18 years that I owned the car. Maybe someone else will jump in with more suggestions. Good Luck!

There is high resistance in the circuit.Probably at the plug. Contrary to what you might think,this can make the current thru the bulb higher than normal. This happens because the resistance of the bulb itself changes w/temperature. Initially,the bulb is cold/low resistance but quickly heats to a higher resistance. When there is unwanted resistance in the wiring,the bulb heats less(more slowly too)and has less than normal R. The overall effect is less circuit resistance and too much current thru the bulb. I would change the plug.

Winter in Fairbanks, a Subaru's natural environment: Flaunt it by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr 1977 Subaru Wagon by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr 1977 Subaru Wagon by Jason Ahrns, on Flickr

A vacuum leak will cause a rough idle. There are a couple of dohickeys on top of the engine that are connected to the vacuum system. The nipples on those dohickeys can break off real easy and make for a vacuum leak. A bad vacuum pump will cause a rough idle. An oil dip stick that is not all the way down will cause a rough idle. A disconnected vent hose to the cam tower cover will cause a rough idle. If you look at the engine sideways, that will cause a rough idle.