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Need to analyse stuff before throwing stuff at it ( mind you, I know a mechanic with 50 years on the job still does this !) Do you want to buy tools to learn or want to take it to a workshop and pay them? Hard start you describe sounds like an old fuel pump on its way out, as well as possible blockages in fuel filters etc as Dee pointed out as I picked this text out on my tablet Need to start somewhere I would T in a fuel pressure /oil pressure gauge after fuel filter and observe...basically looking for 36 psi You could pay a shop to just do this. If a pump is to be replaced is best and for warranty, to clean out tank and or fit a prefilter to save new pump from getting old tank spoob First thing last, so many find the first step for a check up Learn to do a cylinder compression test on everything, even daily driver going well. It even beats OBD2 diagnostic systems on many cars. I even check my whipper snipper, lawn mower and blower and record results. Learn cold, operating temp, add oil company tests If I could do a signature in this forum I think it would read "Do a compression test and report back"

if a few sprays of starter fluid calm it down - that would point to fueling.

You subscribe to starlink and use the phone app. Aftermarket systems will not work due to the level of integration and key encryption Subaru uses. Welcome to the 21st century. Subaru doesn't want you being able to buy things like this from other sources. None of the auto manufacturers do. GD

Anything with an EA82 engine will fit. Loyale and GL from at.least 86 through 94 . Legacy is totally different.

Extra connectors may also be for options that the particular car doesn't have. An example - my 86 came with manual side mirrors. My 90 came.with power mirrors. I got.a pair of mirrors and the dash switch from a local scrap yard. When I went to install them, the wiring for them was in the doors and the dash! All I had to do was plug them in. Instant upgrade.

Try this site Car-part.com You can search local yards and even call and see if you could have them ship. Would a heater core from a 91 legacy fit? I have a 91 leg wagon that I'm parting out. Heater core worked fine for the 2 years I drove it.

Another thought...my 85 turbo sedans had a few what looked like unmatched loom plugs sitting injected to nothing around firewall, brake master They are line end check terminals I think were used at the end of assembly line to check all was fine and dandy Not sure if my 87 Vortex ( turbo of course ) has these. Would be handy to know and read outputs of healthy car.

The dudes are right, 250hp for low budget on a smaller displacement engine is near impossible. Usually requires advanced knowledge of tricks and techniques to make it happen. It frequently results in a severely shortened engine life. If many swaps is your cup-o-tea, go for it. Worst you can do is waste money and blow up engines? Idk...not my cup. I installed an '02 EZ3.0 in a '77, with thebone stock Ecu, and a '92 Loyale trans. 215hp overnight... Well, over 2 weeks. Anything can be done if you are willing to do the research into what it will take. My total cost into the build thus far is just shy of $1500, including the engine and tires. Engine came from pull and save, for a whopping $200. She runs, drives, and has a few thousand miles on it now, including one 1000 mile trip. That being said, I AM a mechanic. If I was to do that for anyone else, it would be astronomically expensive, primarily due to the labor cost, time is money and the research into it was extensive. A 96 body will fit an EZ30, and will bolt to the trans. You said you did the clutch, if you have, then you know how to pull the engine. Procedure is *almost* the same for the physical engine swap. Would need to switch the radiator, which is a bolt in, and have the exhaust mated to the new engine. And... iMO - Your Primary issue is Wiring. The EZ30 runs a different (although physically similar) ECU. It has more wires coming from the engine, because more cylinders and more sensors, which means everywhere the wires run between the ECU and engine (dash, bulkhead, footwell, etc) is also different. To make it work you need to either swap the whole harness, Pay to have someone else do a harness merge, or do a LOT of research, pull out a multimeter, and do it yourself. Its a learning process, and most people quit because they didn't take the time to learn first. I am a dumb carb guy. I knew nothing about ECU wiring when I started. If I made it work, so can anyone. There are many good writeups on that swap, and if you are willing to do all the legwork yourself to find the wiring diagrams, learn about them, and then replace the right wires then you can do it. There is no reason it HAS to be expensive, but you really need to look up everyone's experience. Take good notes of what went wrong for them, and how they fixed issues that will bite you in the wallet. I spent 3 weeks reading every ez swap I could find just so I wouldn't have any issues on my daily when I did the swap. It worked. No codes, no horrible failures, just some cooling kinks from cheaping out on pipe clamps. BUT it's done for less than what most people pay for their engine alone. So decide what you want to do, then to heck with peoples opinions of the idea, get out there, learn what you need to know, then a whole bunch of extra, and make it happen. Sry for novel.

Take your old unit to a radiator specialist and have them make one up. Years ago I lashed out on a new all copper/brass unit and haven’t looked back. The rad shop was able to order one in. No idea on part number though I’m sorry. Cheers Bennie

The differences should be small. just annoying things, like a wire color... Style of connector here and there. Some of the accessories. I never had an XT6, but several EA82 wagons. From 86 GL to 93 Loyale and have a complete FSM for an 86 and 90. Those are the kind of things I ran across.

The hissing sound is probably the diaphragm in the booster leaking.

Need to look at why most recent report of erratic compression is there. Erratic suggests a tech got different results for same cylinder(s) unable to work out why Reminds me of an EA82T that a guy had trouble with , similar sounding problem made worse by boost An ER27 should have been labelled as EA27 as it is just an extended fuel injected EA82 I ended up with the heads of that never sorted EA82T and found worn valve guide causing one valve to likely get stuck off centre from random ( or erratic) time to time I think with time and effort you ( in your overalls) will isolate at least one cause to one of six cylinders. Unless you have buckets of coin to keep throwing at it, might be best you learn inhere, step by step, and makes friends with all the ER27 guys in here. Once you involve a third party, makes it hard to guide you

I have once or twice had a rocker on EA82 slip out on assembly cause grief before start up but do to think this it problem. Cylinder leak down test. Google the theory and process

Oh, sugar, the er0tic and adult content warning was applicable on that link ! Should have read it first ! From here on in, anyone that tests something, have them record the result for you to post up and compare to specs Ask for a link to online manuals if you don't have already in some form Someone may have missed something I didn't see comp test done or results EDIT until second read "erratic engine compression" OK. Need to do this yourself. Buy a compression gauge, maybe a thin wall plug socket 3/4" or hope someone fitted 5/8" plugs If you want, ship it to me, I'm up for a challenge

It might be starving for fuel or have a clogged fuel filter or a failing fuel pump. Check the fuel pressure to see if it meets spec.

First question, confirm which engine it has. Keep in mind these are rare versions of cars that many parts are NLA even for the common versions. Finding a pro mechanic shop that will know what to do with one or even touch one is going to be a challenge and likely expensive.