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I thought about it yesterday when cruising into town... it has to be something like a bent edge of the dust shield but I can’t work it out with the wheel in place. I’ll definitely update this thread once I work out what it is. Not drive ability issues associated with the noise. Cheers Bennie

Get a meter.They are like $10. You can`t work on cars w/o one. You don`t have a short.You have the opposite-a high resistance connection.Heat is generated there. " continuity across the ignition wire." What does that mean? 0 ohms?,1 ohm?,10 ohms? A poor connection at the connector is the source of your overheated wire.If you put a voltmeter across it,there will be a voltage drop under load. When you relpace the switch,the connection is still bad I recently replaced my ignition switch because of high contact resistance.I eliminated the connector at the same time by soldering the wires. ELIMINATE the CONNECTOR The ignition switch and all wiring needs to have very low resistance because both the solenoid and ignition coil have load resistances on the order of 1 ohm. An additional 1 ohm across the switch and connections means they see only 6 volts under load-not good. I measured up to 6 ohms across the ignition terminal of the switch depending on how you wiggled it. Ran quite well except for a cold misfire(surprising),but it is way better after switch replacement-silky smooth now. I had to make an ea81 tilt switch from a normal one by cutting off the tabs and soldering wires on ,but,that is another story. One wire IS hot all the time. If there is still nothing on the solenoid after repair,check the neutral safety or clutch switches.

I wish I could see the pictures of the car. In North Carolina we are required to carry uninsured/underinsured insurance on our cars, don’t know about your state. If it does, I would think it would cover a situation like this.

The spade connector (small wire) on the back of the starter is the one that energizes the solenoid. It is fed 12V only when the key is in the starting position. There is a fusible link in the circuit between the battery and the ignition switch, no fuse in the fuse box. I have seen links to wiring diagrams, but don't know them. Any year from 86 through 94 SPFI should be very similar, especially for this part of the wiring. Simplease test - get a length of 12awg wire. Connect one end to the spade terminal on the back of the starter. Momentarily touch the other to the positive battery terminal. If it cranks, the starter is good, and the relay mod will likely fix it. If it clicks no crank, the contact in the solenoid is eroded down, and can be replaced.

I wish my phone would show the pics Sounds like it was a real gem Regards Bennie