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I would put a remote switch that only u know about, that shuts power off to the column. No power, car won't start. And, yes, I hate thiefs too.

Without sounding sarcastic... Yep... Good luck with that. Apart from a complete custom tank, only choices are to clean the old tank or source a good secondhand unit. Sourcing a good secondhand unit is probably the best option if yours is seriously rusted on the inside as well. You will become very capable of the remove, recondition and replace technique with these old girls and find yourself with an extra one or two cars laying around for parts. Which is a shame because there are better quality cars now being scrapped by those of us in the quest to keep ours on the road. Regards Al

This points to driveshafts for me. I realise you said you swapped them for known good ones, but this is what my thinking comes back to - particularly if it’s a big steering wheel wobble at lower speeds. Cheers Bennie

The Liberty has a button on the dash, it's a single momentary button, when 12v is provided on that wire to the control module, it turns the system on, and then again on the same wire, it turns off. Easy enough. This button also has an indicator light in it to tell you when the system is on, you may want to replicate that somewhere. The stalk on the steering wheel has 3 functions. Accel/resume, Decel/set, and Cancel. This is done using a 12v momentary pulse on 2 wires. There are a couple diodes in the switch so it provides 12v to both wires simultaneously for the cancel function (see attached). You could make that your 4th function by replicating those diodes, or leave it off (easy enough to touch the brake pedal to cancel or turn the system off). I assume the switches are from an EA81 sedan or wagon. I don't have any good diagrams on the function of those, but again, shouldn't be hard with a multimeter to figure out how they function and apply a power source to one wire and get it out on another wire when the switch is pressed.

Sheriff called a half hour ago; car found in Beaverton near Tektronix. I'll go out in the morning to recover.

Imo i’d use the ea82 front end. Easier to find parts, better axles, and it gives you the option to run manual or power steering. Solid build. Very similar to mine.

Good thought, they may be set up to tell you what the injectors can do and support HP wise. When I’ve sent injectors to RC engineering and witchhunter (including XT6 injectors) they included before and after testing...of spray pattern, and maybe more.

FSM page -

The bolts are in a larger hole and the thickness of the bolt thread. So the hub can effectively move closer to, or away from the swing arm mount a few mm. And by raising the bolts relative to their holes, it twists/rotated the hub face so the tyre can have loads of positive or negative camber. I hope this helps Jono! Cheers Bennie

The EA81 has very few electrical components that are specific to the engine, so you don't need to remove much. The vast majority of your time will be spent stripping and prepping the EJ harness

Took me a bit to locate another 6 pole FPCU (non turbo of course!) and like a country song played backwards - everything got fixed (wife comes back, kids love ya, truck starts run'n and you find your dog!) I mean electrical issues 1 - 4 got fixed - dash lights work! Idle is back to normal. Hell even my door buzzer is back! Thanks guys for the knowledge and advices! I'll do my best to stay on top of issues but goddamn this is a cool place to get help on an "immediacy" tip. **** To whomever reads this topic - DONATE to help this site stay afloat! If there was ever a site to keep up and going, this is one of them! **** Two-Fingers!