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Put your money into an EJ22 conversion. By the time you buy a Weber, fit it and an exhaust, you’re the best part in on an EJ22 conversion. Cheers Bennie

Gotta move to Chile.

Check your timing belts to make sure they’re still both in one piece. If you’re not getting spark you won’t get fuel. Also check your fuses and fusible links Cheers Bennie

Awesome. Ive worked on a guys Subaru’s, he ran an NA-T for quite a few miles in a 1997 Impreza. He ran it some on the track, tinkered it, used it as a daily driver, and loved it with no issues. He kept the boost low and monitored EGTs. “red devil”, username on other forums, had classic trials with NA-T decades ago. SC instead of Turbo but Those posts might be worth a look if they’re still around.

I have had that same 4 inch SJR EA81 lift kit on my 1983 GL 4WD Wagon for about 12 years now and I am very happy with it. It doesn't eat axles - same ones are still in there and it handles great. I used a Forester steering shaft and it fit right in. I think it was from a '98 or so. I have an EJ22 in mine so I can't offer an opinion about the Weber conversion or the exhaust but I hear they are worth while upgrades. Good luck with your project!

If you have an ecm aka ecu, is it for some sort of fuel control of a carby? SPFi then? MPFi ?? My experience only lies with EA82T MPFi They use a diagnostic LED built into the ECU which often tells the problem, sometimes nothing related to problem You need to find how yours works It may be flashing a code or just indicate a healthy O2 sensor?? Or you may need to do the step byy step to get it to spit some codes I like Bennie's suggestion if timing belts, easiest check is dust cap off to see if rotor spins on cranking

Going in is easy, push with your fingers in one hand and wiggle the rod from underneath with the other. It'll slot in once it locates. Getting them out is trickier, I use a long thin screwdriver and tap them out from the opposite side of the block. The screwdriver needs to be thin enough to clear the closer rod.

To answer number 4. I find it easy when I first make sure the far side criclip is in. I use a 8 in long 3/4" wood dowel as a drift. Once the rod is aligned just tap the oiled pin in until it bottoms out on the circlip. Install the front circlip and rotate to the next. O.

Factory bash plate typically protects the sump, the exhaust is still exposed. Custom is the way to go there. Even a bent up street sign is generally better than nothing. Just don’t get caught with the street sign! Cheers Bennie