Leaderboard

Never mind, PO had a piece of black tape underneath the gauge covering the CEL, so no disassembly needed! GD here in TN they fail you if the CEL is burnt out, no mercy.

Yeah but is that a whole unit or a price for service? And the web site is copyright 2004 so I don't believe anything on it. They do good work though. Small distributor shop - very old and cluttered. Staffed by grey beards. GD

You will have to call them. Been many years since I had the need. Probably a couple hundred would be my guess with rebuilding the complete unit including the vacuum advance, etc. GD

Could be the rear output shaft bearings whining. Or the bearing between 4th and 5th. This can lead to the gearsets moving and not lining up properly, ultimately ending in the destruction of the gearbox. You might have other signs of bearing wear of this manner - on light cruise at 60km/h or ~35mph in top gear it’ll slip out of gear. As it gets worse it’ll start happening in 4th too. This is what we experienced with my sister’s high km gearbox in her Gen3 Liberty/Legacy. We swapped it for a second hand gearbox that we took a punt on. The centre diff was shot - but you’ll be swapping that anyway for your RWD setup. There was a guy on this forum from memory that made a bellhousing adaptor to fit a dedicated RWD gearbox to the EJ engine. I think it ran a Toyota or Nissan engine - can’t remember which one. It might be worth looking into. Cheers Bennie

With IGN KEY in Start position, 3 pins will have 12v and the 4th pin will be ground IF the security module is working otherwise it will also be 12v. With IGN Key in Start position 12v on pins 1 and 2 and 4 if Security Module is not working and 0v on 6. If Security Module is working and grounds pin 4, 12v on pins 1 2 and 6.

Connector B12 - Pin 12 is White Green and Pin 11 is White Lavender. Jumper together.

Connector B59 Pin 2 is WB and Pin 6 is WG. Both should be large gauge.

Solved: new accelerator cable and hitachi carb fuel & fuel return installed. Idles at 800 and I drove it for over an hour. Thank you!

If you unplug the security module the starter will not work. That disables the Interrupt Relay. There are two pins that have to be connected to bypass the Interrupt Relay contacts. See the wiring diagram for Starter MT and AT (upper left corner) pins 2 and 6 on Connector B59. A pic of the plug is at the bottom on the page. It is the connector side, not the wire side. Pin 15 on Connector B93 of the security module supplies a ground for the interrupt relay coil. Check it to see if it is 0 volts with the key in start position. If it is 12v then the security module is not closing the relay. The automatic trans inhibitor switch wires must be jumped. I don't know what you mean by 0 - 5v thing. I would also check the wiring diagram on the door lock system and compare between the two vehicles. I did not do that.

Philbin manufacturing in Portland, OR. I have had several distributors re-bushed by them. GD

I had the exact same problem. Worn bushings in the distributor as stated above. I couldn't find any worthy avenues for rebuilding so I'm ended up buying a new distributor. Problem solved!

ordered up the aluminum tubes for the intercooler and radiator pipes first step was get the radiator pipes made up, lower & up pipes for both sedan and wagon more alignment goodnesses stuff in SS, radial rod fully adjustable for caster & centering the hub under the body of the car.

Good god that's a nice Brat! Got new wheels and tires on my EA82 wagon and I promptly took it on some desert adventures.