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No ignitor on the DOHC turbos @Rampage - they’re coil on plug. Ensure you have the coils plugged in/placed correctly. Cheers Bennie

not really looking for a gain in power just looking for a gain in more stable cooling, hopefully itl keep that side of the engine cooler, seeing how its usually the hottest side and its normally the first to blow a headgasket

??? if this engine has a coil and PLUG wires, could easily be a bad coil-pack. Due to waste spark ignition design, a bad coil will kill 2 cylinders. 1&2 OR 3&4 .

Sorry, wrong engine.

The timing seems spot on. The motor is out and currently being disassembled. When I removed the intake there was a pool of fuel in cylinders 1 and 2. When I pulled the valve covers the rockers had fallen off the intake valves on each side. How is that possible? Bad springs? At any rate, now that it's out I'm doing a complete teardown. Anything I should do while I'm in here? It's a relatively low mileage engine (124k). I've ordered timing belts, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, etc. And a complete gasket set. That would easily explain why it wouldn't run. Which I'm glad really. I didn't want to pull this out and find nothing wrong. At least there's a culprit. Want to thank everyone for there continued help and input. This forum has served invaluable to the success of my (and many other) old suubs. Currently, I own 4. My daily driver (91 loyale) has given me over 20k miles! I paid $100 bucks for it nearly 3 years ago. These are cheaper to buy whole then buy parts for! Thanks again, I'll update with pics and progress.

It was already modified when I bought it, but never properly tuned. Instead of having it tuned, I decided to drive it for a while, and overheated it, blew the headgaskets, and locked it up. As for "making it mine", I'm referring to visual mods. Its a beautiful car, but its just not exactly what I wanted. Steven

5 Year update, lmao. Figured i'd add a couple notes for reference. Went with a Dorman Reman Driveshaft, great quality, no problems, balanced well and has grease fittings - sweet. Center Bearing is included IIRC because I can't recall anything about that part of the install. Note: I wouldn't recommend trying to rebuild the driveshaft / u joints yourself, as the u-joints are not designed to be serviced, and while they share similarities to the Nissan drivetrain and *can* be serviced (so they say) , I learned they are a royal b^tch to replace and do require a lot of specialized skill to replace. NEAPCO makes replacement bearings, and as much as I wanted to save a buck and do it on my own, tried and decided it was probably a waste of time. YMMV, there area a few YT videos and I believe @ the time, there was a very informative video of some dude that was repairing a HONDA driveshaft that helped show what needed to be done. Did not need to do anything extra to the transmission snout, ie: snout sleeve. My 98 was a Phase 1 engine - 4 bolts + 1 stud for starter. Donor trans was a Phase 2 w/ 8 bolts, (2 for starter). Trans bolted up no problem, however instead of drilling+tapping a hole to receive the (1) starter bolt needed, I left it be. Works fine, I added loctite to the single existing bolt just in case. Torsional loads are not a concern because the starter has a machined lip that will contact the bellhousing to support any torsional load if the starter were to dislocate / shift. Whole reason for 5MT swap was that my 4EAT was tired, and obviously had some strange shifting patterns and habits that could only indicate imminent failure (ha ha). I was in a rush, and with a stroke of luck, there was crashed Forester @ the local junkyard, so I jumped on it, since I needed to fix it quickly anyway. I could have sourced a more *desirable* transmission and gone about the whole process differently, sure. But, ahem my excuse = lazy+no time. Anyway, the 4eat differential ratio was a 4.11, so lucky me, the donor Forester 5MT apparently had a 4.11 final drive as well, which definitely worked out in my favor, too - I didn't have to muck with the rear end. Personally, I think it really worked out, in a weird way. I guess i'm happy with it, all things considered. The donor transmission in the Forester has a shorter 2nd, 3rd, @ 4th gear ratio compared to most Impreza gearsets / 3.9 Final Drives except the RA models, which is pretty neat. Coupled with a 4.11 Final drive, city drivability seems improved. I mean, with 137 horsepower on tap, gearing helps a ton. *wink wink* Only caveat is that the VSS gear on the front differential is geared for the Forester tires - (larger rolling diameter) and cannot be changed without some type of sophisticated electronic DIY VSS speedo calibrator converter custom deal or, replacement of the actual gear (ie: take it all apart ^_^) I'm lazy, so I chose to leave it and calculate the offset if I wanted to know the real story on things. Cheers.