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When in 2wd mode, in gear, clutch out, engine tuning - does the speedo register anything or just stay on zero? This will give you a clue as to what to look at. If there’s no speed indicated it’ll be the 2wd selector not engaging properly, if it’s showing something on the speedo it’ll be a hub or driveshaft issue. Cheers Bennie

I've been waiting to post about this all year. Let me start by saying these won't be cheap, on the order of $4000 retail. This has been a few years in the making but we finally made a proper low range for a Subaru. Replaces the center diff of a 2006+ STI 6MT. Shifts between 1:1 high and 2.94:1 low. Center diff shifts between open and locked, no limited slip feature. We've had one in my 99 Outback for about five months now. We've had some shifter cable issues. It popped out of high on rough portions of V2R. It occasionally shifts into center diff lock also, most often on rough trails. Those problems will probably be fixed by a better shifter. Unit itself hasn't had any problems yet. Everyone who drives it says it's like cheating. Low range in B's Forester with the 1.6 dual range is equivalent to in between second and third in low with this trans. We hardly even use first low on climbs, second or third is usually plenty, even putt up some hills in fourth low (equivalent to about first in high). Finishing a few more we have most of the parts for, next one is going to slammo. These are some pictures from the mockup, not the finished product: Video from our test run at Badlands off road park, video never does the hills justice but at least watch the rock crawl starting at 1:15: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FyDVQnRx-Dc I think we can fit the same thing in a 5MT which obviously has a much larger market. It looks like the easy way to do the shifting would be to use a rear case section from a pre 97 5MT with the access panel on top. No idea how the standard driveshaft and R160 will hold up to a 2.94:1 low range but I guess we'll find out.

I agree with silerhelm and DaveT. Shot hub spline, shot CV joint or not properly engaged in 2wd mode. All are easy to investigate and relatively cheap to fix too, unless your 2wd setting within the gearbox is shot, but you’d have metal chunks in the gearbox oil if this were the case - and it would be the last thing I’d check if you don’t find any other issues that resolve the problem. Cheers Bennie

The 2WD vs 4WD power routing is done in the transmission, after the clutch. The most common won't move in 2WD problem is a stripped hub - due to the axle nut not tight enough. Theoretically, a failed CV / axle shaft, or a differential problem could also cause similar results, but I don't remember seeing a thread about that.

I agree with silverhelme. I'm thinking the grinding noise you heard with the old clutch was the axle slipping in one of the front hubs. Maybe you didn't need a new clutch after all. Try putting it in gear ( two wheel drive ) and with the clutch pedal out, have someone look at the front axles to see if one of them is just spinning in the hub. If it's not moving anyway, you could just get out and check for yourself if you don't have someone to check for you.

I am assuming that you should be able to push the car by hand if the transfer case lever indicates 2wd but is in neutral.

can delete or leave up for future reference. i got mad and floored it coming down my driveway and felt the power steering kick in for a second so when i got in the parking spot i revved the engine up to around 3500 while steering and could feel it coming and going until it finally had steady power steering and wasent fading out anymore. i had to rev the engine to get it to flow the rest throgh the rack.

What was the reason for replacing the clutch originally? What you are describing sounds like a stripped front hub. The clutch will work the same 2 or 4wd. One other possibility is are you actually getting it into 2wd or are you hitting the neutral spot because of misadjustment or binding of the linkage?