Leaderboard

I adjusted it and turned it back to where it was. Everything seems okay. I'm still needing to check for vacuum leaks. Could be any where with all these bone dry hoses!

So the 4 wires in that box are fusible links. One is the main battery feed, one is the alternator, one is the accessory power, and one is the key on power. You can get modern fuses to replace them, as they are prone to failing at this age. The fuses fit perfectly in the stock case. The are FMX style, and I did the conversion for the correct size. They should match the stock link colors, but mine had no wire insulation left when I got it. I would pull all the fuses and links, and then see if there is still current flowing through the switch. Then add them one by one until it goes away. Also you can pull the switch off of the key cylinder and clean the contacts. They are famous for going bad, especially the starter ones. I added a relay inline with my key switch. So no power flows through the key switch itself.

I was talking about setting the choke as in getting the car ready to drive for the day, not tuning or "setting up" the choke. On the carbs I'm familiar with, they require setting up the choke with drill bit sizes and specific clearances for pull off rods and the like, and then the choke is fine tuned for driver preference or location after that. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/article/the-lost-art-of-choke-adjustment Lots of people that never owned a carbed car think you can just hop right in it and take off without knowing or caring about the choke. The owner's manual is long gone and they don't know there is actually a specific procedure you go through to start the car, ie. setting the choke.

Report of a victory at storage. the one man army rolls on !! knock sensor found. cheers!

The easiest thing would be to find a Hitachi manifold, install it and use the weber. I'm sure someone here has one. As far as the air cleaner is concerned it's been done but requires mating the base of the weber filter to the factory base. This thread shows an adapter that might work.

I figure a +/- 30 year old CTS doesn't owe anyone much.... It's an electronic sensor that gets a thermal cycle every time you run the car. The one I had fail since 1988 made for random crummy running & drive ability. It wasn't out of the range limits so I had no ECU code.

My thoughts on seeing no change, no improvement on running with CTS disconnected said to me this could be suspect. Funny how we all see things differently. Good move in ordering new, reasonably priced part before diving in elsewhere - causing more issues