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Lots of pictures, including pictures of part numbers: https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+separator+plate&tbm=isch&sxsrf=AOaemvJFQdRQ0RoofFl7zQfd8aYaO1QDOQ%3A1635518965614&source=hp&biw=1680&bih=907&ei=9Ql8YaqKI9XT-gSDwpn4DQ&iflsig=ALs-wAMAAAAAYXwYBccUVcVbX8epDbOq4csNmQOr9lgV&oq=13265AA470&gs_lcp=CgNpbWcQA1D2Alj2AmD7BGgAcAB4AIABQYgBQZIBATGYAQCgAQKgAQGqAQtnd3Mtd2l6LWltZw&sclient=img&ved=0ahUKEwjq2N337u_zAhXVqZ4KHQNhBt8Q4dUDCAY&uact=5 Add "Dorman" to the search for that part number.

Trashy ride. Car angled like a demon. They could easily fail completely soon. Top mount could fail in less than 100 miles. Maybe they’d last…but Not worth it. I’d rather drive trashy old struts and wear a bike helmet for my head slamming the ceiling for a winter than install that garbage a shop can just swap the struts out, take them thr old assembly and new struts. you can do the assembly swap yourself and a decent shop shouldn’t charge much just to swap a strut into an assembly.

I feel your pain on the four-hour round trip - here it's more like two hours. But all the $75 does is extend the warranty to 60 days - 30 day return/replacement applies to everything: https://www.picknpull.com/about/policies

all the rollers/cogs should ideally be of Japanese make. The toothed idler is often the weakest link. A weak tensioner or, a slipped/badly placed guide (on MT models) could also cause problems. none of the idlers should 'spin like a roller skate wheel' or wobble AT ALL.

We have two pick-n-pull yards here, and why you'd want to do all that expensive and high-hassle messing with that head - rather than just returning it to them for an exchange - is beyond me. Take it back and get one without the trashed journals.