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My interface with Subaru service has been exemplary though. They are going tow it in and we'll go from there. The service manager was sympathetic and mentioned that the service tech had an apprentice...."things that make you go hrmmmm".... I'll report back for posterity and anybody else looking for similar info. Thanks again all for input.

@idosubaru is exactly right. You'll have to tear it down to take the timing belt off, but the crank will clean up. Tighten it up as tight as you can. Jam something in the flexplate/flywheel, and tighten that bolt as hard as you can. I've said many times the key is not necessary once assembled, but I would think it would be annoying to get it lined up without (I've never tried it). So I've replaced it on the couple that I've done. I've also seen enough of these where the bolt has come loose, but the key has briefly kept it from jumping time. Parts aren't terribly unique. There are a couple different crank sprockets, as they have the teeth on the backside for the crank sensor. There's a 6 or 7 tooth one, and a ~35 tooth one. Balancers are basically all identical. No. The tow bar will not fit between an Impreza and Liberty/Legacy.

Check fluid levels. Engine oil. Front diff. Trans. No diff oil seems likely. Maybe leaked or forgot to top off. I’d diagnose it first before driving it anywhere. Then call them and tell them. Left them tow it and deal with it. And of course it could be coincidence and anecdotal. It’s not a shock to buy a used car and have issues soon that the previous owner was trying to get away from.

Oil control rings. Subaru may have an extended 100,000 mile warranty (with additional time constraint) for that. Annoying in her situation but they change the oil, make it tamper proof then you bring it back later and they check level. You get a new Subaru short block. It was traded or sold by previous owner for this oil loss issue. So she’s stuck with someone else’s problems.

Oh wow that’s rough. Drill it out. Dremel. Heating with a torch might help but don’t heat the block too much. An alternate solution if you think it’ll be hard to remove is to drill a hole, tap it, and thread a nipple the same size as the cooler hose. Not sure where you’d find an appropriate nipple with threads. Could potentially make your own with a die.

Avoid rust. Use 6 pt wrenches and socket not 12. Use the right tool for the job. Follow the FSM and ask supporting questions to what you see there. They’re available free online for older models.

I’ve repaired a few of these. clean the flat faces and surfaces the pulley mates up to. File/sandpaper it smooth and so the pulley sits perpendicular. Then crank the bolt TIGHT. Like use a 2 foot cheater pipe and LET HER RIP. Steel bolt, steel crank, you won’t strip it. I don’t have a torque value but I tighten them all those way and don’t have even use a torque wrench on this bolt. But I’ve done hundreds of them. Id get another timing sprocket, lower cogged (toothed) timing idler, and replace the sprocket, idler, and timing belt. Sprocket because it may be damaged if it looks fine then reuse jt Belt - because You want a new Subaru belt anyway. current belt may be aftermarket and may have been heat soaked from the harmonic failure circus. The lower cogged idler is by far the most likely timing part to fail and make your valves do the bendy dance. So I’d just replace that because it’s smart and $35 and easy with the belt off anyway. I’m not suggesting replace it because it was damaged by the balancer failure, it’s just kind of asinine not to replace it now you absolutely do NOT need the key way there. No matter what anyone says. Yes it’s nice and clean and you can use a proper torque wrench if it’s all perfect. But it’s an old cheap car, you’ve got options. You don’t adjust timing anymore off the crank and it won’t come off if you tighten it like I suggested. I’ve done dozens like that. No big deal if you crank it tight. Make sure to let anyone else know if you sell it or have a shop work on it. That’s the downside but I do all my own work and remember this stuff The timing belt looks untouched and looks to be intact so I’m assuming timing isn’t hosed. And this is the norm - the clatter and issues caused by a loose harmonic balancer usually render the car and driver useless to continue driving it until catastrophic timing belt interference issues. But we can’t really tell - maybe that belt is floppy loose and it is hosed. I can’t touch it. But that conveniently huge hole and great picture looks like an intact belt. Id just press on the belt and make sure it’s not obviously loose and floppy and use that to assume valve timing is okay technically the car should start and run like shown in the photo with no balancer or belts if you jump start it - it just needs another car or battery with jumper cables since there’s no alternator operating without belts. So you could slap jumper cables on it - and crank it and see if it starts without any funny buiisness if the owner agrees.

idosubaru is absolutely correct. That's why I said the XT is terrifying to drive. Every other vehicle looks like a skyscraper driving past you and the roads are absolutely full of morons on their phones and screens built into their cars. This is part of why my daily is a lifted K5 Jimmy on 35's and my recreational vehicle is an Army LMTV that weighs 21,000 lbs. I'm not about to get taken out by some soccer mom in a Suburban. GD

Ah I see what you mean. Those would be nice for the owner to manually toggle. Those aren’t accessible by OBD scanners. I wonder where those tables and features are stored? Are they in a dedicated controller?

That is most excellent to be aware of! Thanks for posting.

at www.subaruoutback.org , there is a thread about FreeSSM and similar tools. Maybe someone over there can assist with the question? (SSM=Subaru Service Monitor, the dealer's software)