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Thanks for your comment. So it sounds like you would recommend: oil + filter change, air filter change, brake + CVT + diff fluids, spark plugs?

Throw away the stock computer and put a LINK ecu on it. You can get rid of the MAF and not have to worry about all the sensors and interlocks that you are missing. GD

Yes Sir. Sorry I didn’t mean to suggest they’re exactly the same. They have the same valves and springs part numbers. And sitting them side by side it looks like they took the EJ25 head casting molds and reduced the exhaust ports to one instead of 2. But it was just an illustration that the Phase I and II EJ22s are vastly different. I didn’t mean much more than that by that comment. 1. Phase II EJ22s have headgasket issues 2. we know the best repair approach. Why it happens isn’t a discussion I like to enter online. Practically we know what to do as shown in #1 and #2 above So why doesn’t matter much Subaru tweaked the headgasket designs to mitigate the issue, so that’s often assumed as the root cause. that’s correlation, not causation. Just because Subaru changed the head gasket design doesn’t mean that’s the root cause. Indeed it didn’t entirely solve it - they’re still more prone to head gasket failures at high mileages than other engines, so it’s a little short sighted to single them out as 100% the only causative factor. Subaru would choose the easiest and cheapest way to mitigate. If it’s engine characteristics causing it, they’re not going redesign the block to replace everyone’s engines when a headgasket retooling can accomplish 90% of the intended result. But again that’s just an example, it might be wrong, but the frequent commentary that it’s 100% head gaskets to blame might be missing something too. Seems likely some unforeseen engine characteristics lead to issues, and redesigning the gaskets did a great job mitigating that. They ended up with better gasket tech - but the engine design forced it to happen and it’s still not as good as first Gen EJ22s

Unfortunately there is no updated gasket for the EJ222. Unlike the 2.5 where you can just buy the turbo gasket. For the EJ222 you have to buy like a cometic gasket, etc. As I said I really don't like that engine - seen way too many of them with bad rings. The piston re-design is to blame. And not being able to get a Subaru turbo MLS gasket for it..... it's an avoid for me. GD

Brake fluid is every 30k, along with clutch fluid if applicable. I would highly recommend you do it to avoid issues with the calipers and moisture in the fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture from the air - this can then condense at the bottom of the system (calipers) and rust the piston bores. Also changing brake fluid is cheap. I have to disagree with idosubaru on this point. I have seen way too many caliper pistons seized and bleeder screws broken off because no one did the fluid maintenance regularly. A 60k at my shop also includes the CVT fluid and diffs - even with that it's about $1000. BUT you are in the bay area and my shop is in Oregon - expect to pay more. Everything listed on the two more expensive packages is what we call a "wallet flush". Does absolutely nothing. The exception might be the evaporator cleaning but that's only if you have a problem with bad smells from the HVAC. Subaru sells a can of foaming AC evap cleaner that you spray into the evap drain tube - you can do this yourself. GD

Which coolant sensor are you checking? There is 2 wire for the ECU and a 1 wire for the gauge. Make sure you're checking the 2 wire sensor.

The reason it feels "slow" could be the giant wheels and tires you are spinning with the stock engine. Try something closer to the stock size and you will see acceleration increase. You said yourself you won't be doing any crazy wheeling... This is the easiest solution I see. Best of luck

You want to make sure you don't get someone who doesn't know what they're doing and covers it up to just pass inspection which can often mean trapping rust and water inside of it. Some places in areas with inspections will do this - just get it rhough inspection and there very well may treat an old Subaru like a Ford Tempo. You don't want that kind of a "patch". I'd almost want it more open than covered unless they do a really good job of attacking the rust directly.

there is nothing evil in his writing - he simply does not have time to explain every detail to someone that is new to this. Yes, he can be very blunt, and often seems rude.. most of us here understand this. Simple line is this.. you bought a car that had problems and had been sitting for a long time which adds to the list of problems. Simply buying and replacing parts that you "think" are the problem will not fix it .. you need to do proper diagnoses and determine exactly what the problem is.. being this car is prior to OBDII, that makes it a little harder, but it can be done. But without properly diagnosing what the problem(s) are, you are simply throwing money and parts at it, hoping it fixes it (this is what is meant by "fixing with Visa"). As for the valves on the drivers side being open when setting timing marks, yes, it is normal and doing exactly what it should be doing. One has exhaust valves open, the other has intake open.. Passenger side will have both fully closed.. When setting the timing on a 4 cyl with a single timing belt, you need to have all 4 positions set correctly or it wont run. 4 stroke engine = 1 - intake (intake valves open, down stroke), 2 - compression ( valves closed, up stroke), 3 - combustion (valves closed, down stroke), 4 - exhaust (exhaust valves open, up stroke) and one last thing... you claim you are living in South America, but you have your location listed as being in Florida.. so which is it? Not exactly being honest here, are you? Last I checked, Florida is not part of South America.