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2002 subaru outback 4 cyl according to profile jumped timing?

AFAIK, the warranty for a DIYer is generally 30 days, and they just give you another engine. And they expect to get theirs back in exactly the condition it was sent. As such, I waited to order mine until I was 100% ready to put it in. I had all my gaskets, timing components, etc. on hand. The old motor was out with the intake manifold off and ready to use. So I swapped everything over (kept everything I removed from the JDM engine in a box) and was ready to start test driving about 3 days after it arrived.

here in italy they were called "GL" spec, mine was exactly same level of spec, electric windows, all other buttons seem to there, just one empty switch space. my old one was a 92, this one is a 93, both have the high roof bulge, makes for a very airy feeling inside, specially for someone who's 6'4" like me, wish it had cruise control but never seen it in really old Legs round here.

I have...and I definitely have some advice. Make sure you buy from an importer who doesn't require the engine to be put in by a mechanic to have a valid warranty. #1 most important. Make sure they do compression tests and ask for the results. If you go that route plan to swap your intake over to the new motor. I wouldn't worry about wiring necessarily unless they cut wires on the engine side as with the lower mileage they are likely in better condition than original. However many will go with the intake anyway. If you are not sure what kind of issue your engine is having and it is possible it's a fuel delivery issue. Then buy some remanufactured/cleaned and flowmatched injectors and install them. The JDM ones are likely clogged from drying fuel. Change the valve cover gaskets and sparkplugs before install. Check that the flywheel or flexplate bolts are torqued to spec. Plan on doing a full timing belt and water pump. Probably not a bad idea to pull the oil pan, inspect for dents, make sure the oil pickup tube seal is good. They are often left sitting on the oil pan for long periods of time and it can be damaged.

likely a 'crash integrity' (dunno what to call it) feature and one side is just missing. a local collision center might even have one they could pop in for $40 or something.... ???

Yes, @Suber Dave is still selling the axle parts. If you don't hear from him I can shoot him a text.

I can’t find your article with more info in the retro guide. Any pics or advice? After some time I figured it out. forgot how the cables were routed on the old car. Been running no e brake for 7 years. This is the first real maintenance in years. Overall smaller rotors with e brake is better.

Yep, should be right. The rear diff in these cars is sometimes a little off center, not sure exactly why, and it seems to be different on every car. When there were more guys running welded diffs on here, there's always an easy side to pull an axle, some cars could be done without even jacking the car up. EA81s use a narrower track, so you can't use the shaft, but using 4 EA82 cups on EA81 shafts would give quite a bit more extension travel. When I built my Loyale (5-lug, EJ22, lowered), I didn't have any correct roll pins handy, so I used some low grade bolts. Broke 3 on the LH side (actually had a LR axle fall out while driving...) before doing it correctly, never on the RH side. I have EA82 inner cups on my Brat shafts for a bit more travel. Took a picture last night (Boy does a flash highlight the rust....Minnesota car it's whole life), you can see the extra depth in the joint. 20200729_183004 by Numbchux, on Flickr

Alright, probably the first post to be this excited about tiny 13" wheel impreza brakes and axles ever!! Had to put a new wheel bearing into the drivers side knuckle today. Bearing was so bad the hub was trashed too. I had to press one from a 96 Outback and remove the tone ring. Now all pressed in with new bearing and ready to go now. Here the Combo......mocked up for sexy all their 13" wheel, 23 spline Impreza sexiness. 1st gen Legacy non-abs Knuckles 93 FWD Imprezas axles 93 FWD Impreza rotors 242mm 93 FWD Impreza Caliper brackets 93 Impreza FWD brake pads Impreza actual calipers will be replaced with the EA82 calipers on the rig currently. IMG_3809 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Here's a pic of the difference in the slider pin sizes. Upper pin teh EA82 pin is longer, and possibly larger diameter.....haven't pulled them apart yet. IMG_3810 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Lower pin looks like it might be the same length, gotta also check diameter too. More to come. IMG_3811 by Dans Subaru, on Flickr Next up, XT6 control arms widened 5/8th inch (1-1/4 track width increase to match stock Impreza) And 2011 Outback Front shocks, modified perches to use 2004 Outback rear springs. Thoughts?

Rocker shaft spring washers. I've had engines apart and found them in the bottom of the oil pan. Found half of one one time and couldn't figure where the other half went off to. Not too difficult to fix. Basically remove the valve covers, then remove the rocker shafts and disassemble them to put the new washers in. Part number: 13256AA030 #6 http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_6/engine/valve_mechanism/illustration_4/

The 4-lug brake setup is completely different. The brake and suspension upgrade options for 4-lug, are convert to 5-lug. If you want to stay 4-lug, you'll have to be creative. As for routing. I had them go down through the tunnel just like on an EJ car. It wasn't hard, I just used a hole saw, and then cut out between the holes with a cutoff wheel. BUT. It should be mentioned, that I had issues with the cables rubbing on the driveshaft. Now, I had a one-piece shaft (car was a FWD car), so this may not be an issue with a stock 2-piece...but make sure you've got adequate clearance. If I were to do it again, I'd drill through the vertical bulkhead just behind this and go through there.....

i have the rings for the brembo swap but after several smaller hub rings i have determined its not worth having a ring for the smaller hole backing plates ( wrx, leg.,) STI use a bigger berring hub so the hole in the backing plate needs to have a ring so the holes are drilled half in the ring and half on the backing plate , just re drill the 3 holes in the backing plate as needed its not overly important that its exact as long as you are with in the 1/8th that the ring would center it .

looky here

Either way - the head gaskets on the belt motors are more reliable. The FB's are mixing coolant and oil and we are seeing oil in the radiators. Just did HG's on a 2013 with 82k on it. Oil in the radiator. Often people don't catch it in time and it results in bottom end failure. If anything the HG problems have gotten significantly worse with the FB's. The engines are almost entirely glued together and are labor intensive to take apart and put together since so much cleaning of liquid gasket maker is involved. Honestly we prefer the EJ's in every case. The FB engines are absolute trash IMO. The early one's burn oil due to piston ring issues, the turbo variants like to lose piston skirts and usually trash the cylinder bore, the leak from the timing chain cover and destroy the front AFR sensor, and then there's the ECU issues - they can randomly "learn" a cam advance angle that they can't unlearn and then you have to replace all the timing sprockets, the cam sensors, and the ECU plus program the immobilizer...... it's an ABSOLUTE $hit show. GD