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Yeah you can just spray carb cleaner or startintbfouod around all the hoses with the engine running and listen to the engine. If it sucks any in due to a leak you’ll hear the engine respond immediately. im sure you can google it. fuel pressure. Just need to hook up a pressure gauge into the rubber line by the drivers side fender well. Subaru doesn’t have an existing port to check it. You just have to Tee into it.

It's possible the problem is far enough out that it set a permanent code and now the computer has fully disabled the cruise control, as it fails before startup due to this permanent code. Now what I mean by permanent, is it's in a different memory point in the ECU, so it may not be wiped by your code reader. If you have the ability to check your "permanent" or "memory" codes, you may be able to wipe it and get your cruise back. Twitch

Have you tried the classic method of chasing down vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner at various vacuum fittings while it's idling? If there's a leak, the car will increase in RPM for a short time if there's a leak near/where you sprayed the carb clean. As for your other possible issues, idosubaru pretty well covered it. One other thing I would recommend is pulling the electrical connectors off your injectors and check their resistance across the terminals. If you have one way off from the others, it might be a dead/dying injector. Twitch

So, long time no see for most of y'all. I'm still kicking, and still a car enthusiast, but lacking the time or energy to dive into my old Subaru right now. In my search for the near perfect one car solution, I went with something a little more, um, "uppity", we'll say. She's a Certified Pre-owned 2016 Cayenne S, with a tow package, heated and cooled front seats, and a 420hp Twin Turbo V6. I make poor financial decisions and wanted a car that was finally fast, comfortable, and could still tow. 7700lbs towing and 1200lbs payload means I can still get away with towing my travel trailer. And getting this car was one hell of a trip. I had a 2019 GMC Canyon crew cab, 6ft bed, with the 2.8L diesel. Economical, capable, but slower than a snail in traffic and made me feel like an octogenarian driving it. Also, it had a DPF (diesel particulate filter) failure at 40k miles. Which, while covered under warranty, left me without a truck for over 3 weeks. So I decided it needed to go and started a hunt for a better upgrade. I found several good options until this Cayenne caught my eye. I contacted the dealer and started negotiations, got pictures and reports about the car, and got a deal and financing. In a span of 72 hours, I sold my truck, bought plane tickets, I took my first two flights from Spokane to Atlanta to Newark, got an "exciting" ride in a Taxi at midnight, slept like 3 hours in my hotel, walked to the dealership the next morning, and bought the car. Then I promptly drove it to a Whole Foods, stocked up, and traversed 2633 miles over 3 1/2 days, across the country back to Idaho, full solo. A total accumulation of 42 hours 42 minutes of driving. I almost roped a few people into the ride, but no one was available last minute. One hell of a drive, and I would do it again. Twitch PS: If y'all have any questions, feel free to fire away. Also, those fuzzy dice have lived in my daily driver since I bought my BRAT in 2008. I flew across the country with them in my bag, and put them on as soon as I left the dealership.

I’m having a hard time imagining what might be different for ductwork between the two. Very likely the same. Those other connectors are for options or maybe for their diagnostic equipment at the time. But when I have a chance I’ll look through my parts catalog with the exploded views and see if I can be more helpful. Good luck and wise decision with the EJ22

Front inner axle joints. Aftermarket axles highly suspect. Might get away with regreaseing the joints but simpler to get some used Subaru axles. Front diff can do it too but I’d expect you to tell the difference.

That's how you know there's oil in them, right?