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Super easy. Unplug the white connector from the module mounted vertically to the left of the steering column. Here's the old write-up on it, but looks like the pictures are dead. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/diy-disabling-drl-2000-2004.6668/

Sounds like one of the forks is out of place and gear synchro cogs are hitting as you turn it. Time to open it up, unless you can return it still.

I’ve heard tree frogs make that noise. Seriously , doesn’t sound normal to me.

Factory EA82 studs have about a 14.2mm knurl diameter (according to the Dorman listing), new gen Subarus are 14.38 (but the shoulder is too long for EA applications, as the rotor doesn't slip over the studs). Looks like I used a 35/64 drill bit (13.89mm). I also used Dorman 610378 studs, which have a 14.48mm knurl diameter, smaller head (easier to seat with the curved material on the back of the hub where they need to be), about 10mm longer overall, but short enough shoulder even for steelies (open lug nuts required, though).

Hmmm… think I’m looking at EJ cases too much these days, I don’t remember the top of the bell housing being so rounded. And those dowel hole up top - never seen that before, maybe a series 1 thing, I haven’t played with those gearboxes before. Cool audio clip. Could be many things - crown wheel touching the low range selector ring if they did a diff ratio swap (in which case, have a look at the pinion shaft for a weld mark); reverse gear partially engaged enough to click/grind like that - or a partially engaged drive gear for that matter too. So many possibilities of what it could be. Either way, don’t just drop that box in (as established)! Looking forward to autopsy pics Cheers Bennie

I have access to prodemand. I will look it up and update Thank you

Got the transmission tunnel and parts of the firewall out as well as the remaining brake and fuel lines. The husk is now well and truly a husk. Some might ask "why the firewall?" when i have a perfectly good Brat firewall and my response is to preserve the mounting hole patterns for the Impreza parts like the brake master cylinder and passthroughs. I may not need them all but this way I at least have good templates or even pieces to splice in where I need them later. Getting the Impreza body scrapped this week and putting the brat back up on stands to get the rear end removed. Looking at it I assumed the removal would be an easier task than it was - there's way more structural stuff in there than it appears at first glance, especially were I've cut it. Took me much longer than anticipated to finish the removal, especially since I was using a 4.5" angle grinder to do it. Were I to do this again or make suggestions to other folks - use a good reciprocating saw at the support ribs - it will make for much cleaner cuts.

Okay, made some pretty significant strides that warrant photography and a novella of an update - (over a month ago since the last one... Jeez, life comes at you sometimes). I've also figured out how to insert photos from and Imgur hosted upload, so while kludgy I get to keep adding photos without deleting the old ones. The donor Impreza is almost out of my shop - I'll have it hauled off early next week and until then the neighbors are gonna have to deal with it being in the driveway. I've begun cutting away any mounting pieces or sheet metal with bolt holes and mounting bracketry I think I may need. This includes some of the firewall, the access panels for the fuel tank, and most significantly rear shock towers and transmission tunnel. So far I've only completed the removal of the towers, but considering the geometry involved I figured it was probably a good idea to take some time to go about it halfway properly. Before cutting anything off the body I had to remove the fuel tank and rear subframe. The subframe was quite an interesting proposition, and I managed to do it without disconnecting the rear struts from the knuckles, but that was a shortcut that turned out to probably take more time than what I'd maybe hoped as it required some creative jack and jack stand work. For those following in my footsteps in the future I might recommend taking the time to remove the struts from the knuckles, then replacing the wheels before undoing the (surprisingly few) subframe bolts while supporting the diff and carrier on a low-clearance transmission jack. I had to strain on the bushings while also rolling this on its drums to get everything out from underneath, but without the struts it would have been a much easier proposition to roll it out from under the car. This also being said, this would also be a moot point if I had a lift, which would have made a lot of this much, much easier. Oh well, wishes and fishes and whatnot. I got the fuel tank out pretty shortly afterward, but with this particular car in this particular locale, all of the rubber and hoses were very, very, very tight and dry on their fittings, so more cutting of tubing than I would have liked had to take place. that being said I'm not sure which tank I'll be using yet, the brat or the impreza, so I'll likely need to reroute fuel lines anyway. Once I'd given everything with fuel a chance to drain and/or evaporate overnight, I began the dirty, dirty work of actually cutting away the pieces I'd need, beginning with the rear strut towers. (Fire extinguishers nearby, don't you fret) I'm not sure how much of these towers I'll really be needing, so I decided to just take the whole interior wheel well. To somewhat preserve their geometry I braced them with a few pieces of angle iron tacked into place. I've been considering the difference in width of these cars, and the plan is to use the angle iron to keep everything aligned by cutting out the extra width (to be measured still) somewhere in the middle, then rejoining them with another "bridge" piece of angle and either clamps or tack welds to keep everything nominally aligned while I splice everything else into place. Wish I could say this was my original idea but there's a build thread I found (I think over on NASIOC), where someone doing a similar swap (WRX Sedan of similar year) into a Gen 2 Brat did a similar setup to get the rear suspension Frankensteined in. Other things to consider: Part of the reason I got such a good deal on this donor was the rust damage at the rear driver's side (left) strut tower. Going to have to make sure I remove or mitigate all the cancer there somehow so as not to doom my Brat build from the getgo. Also after looking at the rear subframe some, if I am going to splice it shorter, I'll need to get creative with the linkage and where it mounts. I'm not sure yet if i'll need to shorten the linkage AND the subframe, or if there's a way I can maintain the linkage geometry without running into clearance issues with the differential, all while keeping it under the Brat. Food for thought I suppose, but I'll tackle that problem when I get there. For now I forge on to cut out the transmission tunnel and a few pieces of firewall, as well as take a final pass over to pick off any other scraps I may find useful. Once the Impreza shell is well and truly gone, the Brat goes back up on jackstands so I can start removing the old rear end on that to begin making room for the new rear driveline. Onto the next steps!