edrach

Interesting comment from someone who sells swaybars (and other goodies) for a living.

Gary you can still have a champagne celebration; hoist one in honor of suberdave at New Years.

Gary has it correct. After removing the cosmetic trim stuff, there are two small screws to remove the ignition switch itself. Then there are the two screws that hold the lock mechanism; they can be drilled out or drill and use an easy out to unscrew. New screws and you're on your way to putting it back together. The trick is finding a good lock and having it re-keyed to match your key. If you're getting the lock mechanism from a junkyard, get the two lock cylinders for the doors also. The passenger side cylinder will have the key code stamped on it so your locksmith can make a "virgin" key with which to make a few spare keys. I've learned to do the door locks in about 5 minutes a side so it's not too difficult and worth the extra effort not to have different keys for the ignition and doors. The other alternative is to find a competent locksmith to can replace the ignition lock cylinder in your existing ignition lock. It's about a 90 minute job plus the cost of a new lock cylinder if he can find one locally. I had it done to both of my '84 brats for about $120 each. You'll have to shop around for a competent "old school" locksmith willing and able to do this, but it can be done without removing the ignition lock mechanism itself. Again, having him make a "master" key from the number on the passenger side door cylinder will make everything last longer in the future. Great news about your upcoming marriage. Your guy couldn't find a better person! Lucky him (and smart too).

Yes it matters. That's why I only have Hitachi distributors; that way I only have to find Hitachi ignitors in the boneyards. Thanks for the offer though. I sent an email; maybe TomRhere can use the ND version.

Re-reading your post, you might check under the hood and make sure the dipstick for the transmission (two dipsticks if you have an automatic) are properly seated. If they don't seal properly, I could see them blowing out diff oil or ATF and causing the smoke you see at speed and no smoke at idle when stopped. Worst case is the mechanic forgot to replace the dipstick after checking/re-filling the transmission. Check your owner's manual for the location of the dipsticks.

It should be okay, but there's no guarantee that the problem won't get significantly worse IF the boot is torn. It'll only tear more as you drive if that is the case. A trip to the dealer to have them check the boots would do a lot to ease my mind before taking a long trip. Again, it might only be spilled oil and nothing to worry about. Hard to say from here.

I discovered today that a aftermarket supplier that I use no longer carries the Hitachi Vacuum Advance (for the standard EA81 distributer found on my '84 wagon). They used to carry it for around $21 plus shipping. Information from Hitachi is: Hitachi Auto Part 70139797 44R83-24007 Does anyone else have a supplier of these units? Any of you Portland guys have a contact within Philbin Industries (http://www.philbingroup.com/fhhistory.htm) and see what it would cost to re-do the diaphragms inside these units in small quantities (like 10 at a time)? I think if you check your cars you'll find that the diaphragm is shot and the vac advance no longer works. I'd be willing to initiate a group buy if we can find a supplier or have Philbin rebuild used ones.

Check the service record and see if they added oil to the transmission. If they spilled some on the engine it'll take a few days for it to burn off and that's normal (I guess). The "twitch" you describe doesn't sound normal as does the sound that comes with it. That might be something you go back to the dealer and describe if for no other reason than to get a written record of it in the event it becomes a warranty issue in the future. I would take a peak at the axles coming out of the transmission and see if the rubber boot might be torn on one of the inboard joints nearest the transmission. That could be the cause of both symptoms since it would throw grease onto the engine or catalytic converter causing the smoke and possible problems with that joint causing the "twitch." 30K is certainly too early to have a torn boot and I would hope is covered under your warranty. If it is torn or has a hole, it was likely done by a careless mechanic during the 30K service.

If all else fails, wait until a few minutes before noon or midnight, disconnect the battery to the car and reconnect it at exactly 12:00. If the clock restarts at another hour do the procedure just before that time. Write down all your radio station settings because they'll go away too if you try this method.

I'm with the axle theory. If the violent shaking occurs during acceleration and goes away completely when you let off on the gas, it's the inner joint of the axle (one or both). CVJs will click on turning; DOJs can shake violently under positive throttle and and smooth out instantly when you coast (never click on turning). I've had this so bad once that I thought the tranny would fall out. Both the EA81 and EA82 drivetrains have a 3.900 ratio front and rear so that shouldn't be an issue unless you did something really strange with the EA82 swap. My comments apply to the gen2 Brat; I'm not sure which version your "early" brat is.

Considering it was a housecall, it was likely a fair price.....but I think you might have gotten hosed. It depends on what he actually did. Switch was likely okay, but he probably had to pull and repair the lock cylinder to fix it. If he was there less than an hour I wouldn't be happy with the cost. Not an uncommon problem with the older Subarus. I had both my Brats done before the the ignition failed and I paid about $120 each to have the lock cylinder replaced and keys cut (no house call).

Odd, it worked for me when I posted it and now it doesn't. For the time being, the primitive link still works; you can send them an email requesting more information on the rallycross school. I'll work on it from here after tomorrow.

I'm sure I would...maybe even more; but, it's a long commute to work! Merry Christmas to you and your family also, Matt.

Paul Eklund is hosting a snow rallyschool in Jan (20-22nd) in Spokane, WA. www.get-primitive.com go to school link. www.rallytales.net/rallyschool/index.html

Also, Jason at www.1stsubaruparts.com offers 35% off list on genuine Subaru parts.

Generally speaking Chiltons is horrible; I've been looking for a FSM for the Imp since we got it and haven't found one. Contrary to popular belief, I don't know everything!

Thanks for the reply. I'll look harder but I suspect it's different. I can't believe no one has done one of these before.

Sorry, my Impreza does not have any screws above the knobs. Are they hidden somewhere?

Thanks, I'll try that.

Link gets me this: vBulletin Message Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms.

Lights behind the temp/fan control panel in our '97 Impreza are out. Anyone know how to get at the bulbs to replace them?

PIR has a public relations problem with the local residents from the scuttlebutt I hear; not sure if that will affect any non-tarmac driving activities.

Question which car are you using this diff on? AWD or 4WD tranny and if 4WD, are you in FWD while this problem is happening?

I'm not sure how good a price you got for your seal, but in the future, you might try www.1stsubaruparts.com for a better price on OEM parts. Welcome to the Board.

If you are talking the blower assembly for the heater, it is quite easy to replace...three 10mm bolts and the connector if I remember correctly (after removing the cosmetic covers under the glove box). Pull a Part price for a blower is under $15.