Holmes

All you really need is the blue tee and the little plug. I got mine at the JY. You can get the 5/8" fuel injection/emissions hose and a second tee at most parts stores.

Check this old thread. It has pics of the PCV modification and the part number is in there too. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=16162&page=2 This should be added to the USRM.

Both the EA82's I've owned did it to some degree. If I let 'er warm up for 3-5 minutes in the morning it won't do it.

How long does it usually take to R&R that bushing? I have the same problemo.

Hey Gary, His car has a different sensor. It has a harness already attached. Check it out - http://198.208.187.182/internet/PartImage.jsp?&acpartnbr=213-2151 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php?carcode=1268568&parttype=5100&partGroup=19&EPImodelID=13189&EPIengineID=3437 Also the one for my 87 has a different harness and it's not called a "coolant temp. sensor" for some reason. It's referred to as an "air charge temp. sensor" in the catalogs I've looked through. Makes sense that the guys at PartsPlus couldn't even find a listing for a CTS for my year. Check it out - http://198.208.187.182/internet/PartImage.jsp?mfgname=ACDELCO&prodlinecd=15&acpartnbr=15-50323 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php?carcode=1268467&parttype=5064&partGroup=19&EPImodelID=12118&EPIengineID=717 It's weird how big a price difference there is between those two.

Ooops! Of course you did, you're in it.

Did you read any of this thread? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=53477&highlight=egr%2A

Yes, my friends car makes the same sound. He was told by his mechanic that it was backlash from a loose timing belt.

I stumbled across this today. http://www.livescience.com/technology/060322_tech_cars.html Nice job Subaru!

For future reference, this place carries a bunch of different brands. They have the NTN 6200's in stock. http://www.motorrepairmaterials.com/estore/Add2CartNonCommNoStk.asp?ProductCode=NTN-6200-2Z&Id=null http://www.motorrepairmaterials.com/estore/search.asp?pClass=BEAR Oops! They're out of business. Well it's still has some good reference info.

As far as I know, ABEC is the rating of the bearing manufacturing tolerances. ABEC-1 thru ABEC-6 I believe. ABEC-6 being the best. And the part number should be the same for most manufacturers. It refers to the dimensions of the bearing (skf 6200, ntn 6200= same thing) Here's one - http://cgi.ebay.com/SKF-Radial-Bearing-6200-2Z_W0QQitemZ7535057659QQcategoryZ64819QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem The 2Z after the part number means it has two metal shields. Now one thing you need to know is whether the stock part is supposed to be oiled or greased. I would imagine they should be greased, not oiled. Grease lasts longer and helps keep more dirt and moisture out of the small opening between the inner race and the dust shield. Just my .02 though.

Let's hope they have more than just a couple of 'em.

Hey Russ. I stumbled across this a few weeks ago. http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=lditr5qn45gwb14522vrvc45&makeid=800022@Subaru&modelid=805862@1800&year=1987&cid=803396@Ignition&gid=801079@Ignition%20System

Did they say they would reimburse you? That's bad business if they don't. If they sent the wrong part, it's all on them.

The radiator is most likely clogged if all that stop-leak was used. And flushing a clogged one is not gonna work to well in my experience.

I can tell you that when I replaced my CTS it took care of my high idle problem (1100) and the slow return to idle. But it did nothing for my hesitation from a stop or rough idle when warm like I hoped it might.

I did notice that the carpet in the bag of the Legacy I was checking out at the JY was thicker than in my GL. I used a bunch of soft foam bricks I scored at my work and stuffed all the holes in the back. Like where the jack goes and the little hatch under the carpet and wherever else I could stuff it. It helped, but I'm still thinking about putting something under the carpet. This stuff would be great, but it's not cheap. http://www.dynamat.com/products_automotive_dynaliner.html Or this http://www.b-quiet.com/vcomp.html Or a cheaper version http://www.amazon.com/gp/search/ref=sr_nr_i_0/002-1297636-0200048?%5Fencoding=UTF8&keywords=sound%20deadening&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Asound%20deadening%2Ci%3Aelectronics-aps&page=1 And then there's the old stand by carpet padding http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ItemBrowse/c-10101/s-10101/p-100000290826/mediaCode-ZX/appId-100000290826/Pr-p_CATENTRY_ID:100000290826 http://www.wesellupholsterysupplies.com/store/shopdisplayproducts.asp?search=yes

Well, fill us in. How are you doing it? I just fill up, reset the trip odometer, and wait for my next fill up. Then I use the amount it took to fill it back up to figure the mileage. Is that right?

Well I'm sure you must have noticed the hills that run alongside 580. That's the East Bay guy. Plenty of steep streets. I lived at the top of a street in Hayward that was steeper than 99% of what you'll find in SF. That was a royal PITA. If somebody pulled out of their driveway while you were driving up the hill and you had to stop for 'em, it was almost impossible to get going again without the HH. Not to mention the huge stress that the clutch would have to endure without it.

The IAC opens mostly when cold, only a little when warm. I didn't notice the mention of plugs in there. I always start at the plugs. Then the cap and rotor, etc.

Ditto.

I didn't say EVERY city in the Bay Area is full of steep hills. I should have said East Bay I guess. Oakland, Richmond, Orinda, Berkeley, San Leandro, Hayward, Fremont, etc. all have plenty of places where the HH comes in handy. And yes, San Jose has a few as well. Now Stockton is a different story. I figure that not having it would put a lot more stress on the clutch if you live somewhere with stop signs at the top of steep hills.

revbill - Yeah, that's an EGR solenoid alright. I saw that a few weeks ago. It's about time they started selling those in the aftermarket.

It depends on where you live. Here in the Bay Area we have tons of steep-rump roast hills. It comes in real handy here. My HH only accuates when I depress the clutch all the way in anyway, so I can decide whether I want it to hold or not.

I remember reading somewhere that crank angle codes can show up if the car stalls. I had two of them and they went away when I cleared the ECU. It could be an old code if you've never cleared 'em.