Holmes

My front springs sag a little low and I was wondering if it will put any kind of extra strain on any of the suspension parts if I leave it like this. I don't mind it because my tires wear better with it lower. I put new ball joints in it a couple years ago and they're already getting bad again. Was curious if the saggy springs have something to do with it or not.

Plug in both the green and black/white connectors to get the stored codes and to clear the codes. Don't these cars usually throw crank angle codes when they stall? I got two crank angles, an idle air, and a coolant temp. code. Replaced the coolant temp. sensor, cleared the codes and all is well. The other three codes were erroneous or directly related to the coolant sensor I guess.

I'm not sure why anyone has to remove anything to read the LED. There should be a small space under the steering column where it is perfectly visible. Although I don't have a Loyale, maybe they're a little different. In the two GL's I've owned there is a strip of foam in the space where the steering column and kick plate meet. Push down on the foam and you'll see the light blinking right behind it.

Here you go - http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/specs/ecucodes.html I believe your connectors are right by the fuel filter, behind the drivers side strut tower.

You can only adjust the IAC up or down about 100rpm, if that. Mine was idling at 1500 for a while. I cleaned the IAC and it dropped to 1100. I changed the CTS and it went down to 750 where it should be. Make sure your throttle cable isn't too tight and the throttle arm is moving freely. Don't touch the throttle stop screw.

So there's already holes to mount the fog lights on these cars? Didn't realize that. Nice job on the ebrake mod.

I was thinking that it might be a good idea to bypass the bypass hoses so none of that sealer messes up your heater core. I was going to do it before I decided to go the rebuilt route. I have a sneaking suspicion that the guy I bought my car from used some sealer on it. If he did, it lasted almost 2 years.

I like the adaptor that I got from Crutchfield because it tapers in on the sides. Not as obtrusive looking as the Metro kit that most people use. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-sMot5lRapfx/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=003SBK930 Why do you think the stock radio is shallow and double-stacked? Because a normal stereo would never fit.

The long block from my old '72 VW Squareback looked a LOT like my EA82. I was amazed when I first saw a Subaru long block. I had heard about the similarities, but didn't realize the extent. I read somewhere that the WRX is very similar to a Porsche in many ways.

The return of GeneralDisorder? Nice.

Good deal bro. I'm gonna flush it out soon. Who knows what has been put in here before I got the car.

When I slightly move the steering wheel my idle gets rough and drops until I return it to center. I've never had this car idling below 900 before, so I've never noticed this until I got it down to 700-750 rpm. The pump isn't making any noise and it's not leaking. The belts are almost new and tight. Is this normal?

My car has been idling at 1100-1600 rpms even when warm. Cleaned and checked the IAC and it seems to be working fine. Noticed that my coolant temp sensor didn't resemble the ones I've seen on other cars. As I'm looking through some online parts catalogs, I run across this part that looks just like one that's in the place my CTS should be. http://www.rockauto.com/ref/SMP/SMPDetail2.html?AX11.jpg They call it an "air charge temp. sensor". I guess it's functionally the same as a coolant temp. sensor just with a different name. The fact that it has a harness already attached is a bonus. I had already bought the CTS so I replaced it with that. No more high idle. This other sensor worked fine up until a few days ago. Looks like it had been on the car for many years. I would have bought another if I didn't already have the other CTS in hand. So, this might be a good solution if you want to replace your CTS and the harness at the same time because of excessive corrosion.

RallyRuss found a harness to replace the one leading to the coolant thermosensor if that turns out to be the culprit. It's Motormite#85850 (Bosch fuel injection harness). My car has been acting the same way lately. I cleaned my IAC as good as I could without completely removing it and it helped some, but it's still idleing at 1k instead of 7-800 like it used too. I was gonna replace the harness and clean the contacts on the CTS just for the hell of it. It probably won't fix the problem, but it definitely won't hurt.

These work pretty nicely from what I've seen. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD5BX/qid=1137171973/sr=8-2/ref=pd_bbs_2/002-1297636-0200048?n=507846&s=hi&v=glance Take the filter element out and put in some steel wool maybe. Or leave it in and clean it when it gets gunked up. Or just get a cheap one off Ebay. There's a few going for $8 +shipping. http://search.ebay.com/oil-catch-can_W0QQfkrZ1QQfromZR8 A chrome one should give you some extra hp too!

Well, you could always put a homemade oil catch can on there. Do a search on the web and you'll find quite a few different ways of making a cheap one. Ebay has a lot of cheap ones as well. Even if you don't see smoke, it still can be pulling in oil, just not as much. My car doesn't do it anymore, but when it did I had 3 on-ramps in the area that I would avoid like the plague.

It happens on angled right hand turns usually. There was a technical service bulletin released in '91 that deals with it. I don't have the bulletin, but it's a PCV problem involving the small pcv line going into the intake. It causes vacuum to pull oil in there. The part number for the mod. is #11813AA010. It's like $30-40 from the dealer. Or try to find the parts off a '92-'94 model. The modification involves replacing the small hose with a normal 5/8th one that tee's into the intake with the hose from the passenger side valve cover. And plugging the small hole of course.

The bubbles are on the dipstick. Hadn't seen them until now. My car gets some bubbles every once in a while if I push it past 3k before I change the oil, but my car has over 200k on it with many a leak. I didn't expect to see it on a fresh rebuild, especially with only 1k on the oil. The lifters are rebuilt. The oil hasn't really changed color much. Just slightly darker than fresh. The rebuilder knows about it. He's saying front seal on the pump probably needs to be replaced.

A friend of mine has a fresh rebuild in his car. It ticks for a few minutes almost every time it's started. He's been watching his oil level regularly as was recommended for the rebuilt engine. He said he has added about 2.5 quarts in the first 1k miles. Is that about right for a new rebuild? It has new PCV hoses and a Subaru valve. At first it kind of sounded like one particular lifter, but the tick has quieted down a little and now it sounds more like all of them. He told me that it wouldn't stop ticking this morning on his way to work, so he pulled over to check the oil. It was only a tad low, but now there are bubbles in it. Brand new pump. His oil pressure is kind of weird too. It doesn't seem to reach full pressure for 3-5 minutes or so. I know the guages aren't that accurate, but his old engine would pump full pressure at all times on the same guage. Rebuilder says it's the front seal? Not the mickey mouse? Said it can let in air and not leak oil. His mechanic isn't too sure and doesn't like tearing into a fresh rebuild unless he knows exactly what it is. Anybody have 2 cents to lend?

Actually it was more like "I was under the impression that if a lifter is not functioning correctly, and it's NOT gummed up, it's bad.". It's pretty minor as far as lifter noise goes. And it doesn't last very long, so I told my friend to not sweat it. I just needed some more opinions. Thanks for the replies vatos. I have some MMO at home that I'll give him. We'll go with the Seafoam if that doesn't work. I noticed his mechanic put one of those blue oil filters on it. Someone told me those were made by Fram. If that's true, that could have something to do with it. Bad anti-drainback valve maybe.

A friend of mine recently had a rebuilt engine installed in his ride. It seems like one of the lifters is sticking or something. It ticks for about 4-5 minutes, until the car warms up a bit. The place that rebuilt the engine said they don't use new lifters because they're too expensive and used ones are good 90% of the time. So, is this lifter part of the 10% of bad ones? I was under the impression that if a lifter is not functioning correctly, and it's not gummed up, it's bad. Am I right?

Damn, those rims look SWEET !! Nice choice.

Thanks for the replies.

I noticed that my idle drops ever so slightly when at a stop when I apply brake. Raises when I let off on brake. Just wondering if this is normal.

Our Sube's have a 4X140mm bolt pattern, while VW's sport the 4X100mm pattern. Your easiest option is a rim off a Peugeot 505. They are the only other car maker that widely used a 4X140mm bolt pattern. There are alot of old threads about this if you do some searching.