subarunuts

Go even more ghetto - drive a block of 2x4 between the valve cover and the frame rail, cover with 3M windsheild goo - instant engine mount.

Aftermarket pan gasket huh? Been there. Get one from the dealer - $4 well spent.

Try to grab it, and slide hammer it out perhaps....

The secret is to twist it and pull - prying is bad. Cast aluminium. Drill some holes in the remaining bit, and tap it for some bolts. Twist and pull with pliers. Shot in the dark, but it might work.

Aftermarket cables are bad news. Dealer only, and carry a spare..... 2 if you are offroading. Pay close attention to the routing or you'll get about 200 miles out of the cable before it breaks at a stop light.

The grommet is only there to keep the cable from rubbing on the firewall, and is part of the cable, so if it's gone it's replacement IS the cable as they are one part number. At any rate, your problem is at the pedal assembly (likely), or the clutch fork. A friend in OR gave me this write up a while ago: http://home.comcast.net/~trilinear/clutch.html

If you want to learn about body work it would be an interesting project, but for less money you could get another one with a good body and drop your engine into it. The front end could be pulled out, but it would never be the same again. Your radiator support, and probably some of the front frame rails are pushed in, and without a frame rack it isn't going to be easy. Under those fenders are crumple zones that will really be tough to get straight again. Best to weld on a front clip, but if you find a car with a decent one, you might as well USE that car instead. I say you have a parts car on your hands. Sorry.

The lifters may have deflated while you had the oil pump off and the oil drained out. If the lifters are spongy, you would be able to turn it like that. Once the engine is back together DO NOT fire it up right away. Pull the plugs and dead crank the engine over till the oil pressure guage comes up to indicate that oil is flowing. This will inflate the lifters, and prevent the engine from eating itself when you start it for the first time.

Rebuilding? As in the engine? How far are you taking it down? Normal compression for an EA81.... on running engines I've seen anywhere between 150, and 220 psi. The number isn't as important as the % difference between the high and low readings. Get the Fel-Pro perma-torque head gaskets - you can get the entire HG kit for both sides online for about $65. These gaskets do not need retorqueing as they are a multi-layer graphite design with 20 years of HG advancement over the originals - I've run a set for 25k miles so far and no problems. Have the heads shaved flat before installing them.

All EA81's are the same from the dash forward - made em cheaper to produce. Even the doors on the Brat are the same as the coupe and hatch. Dome light, seats, carpet, ect... Minor differences under the car in the rear, and most of the changes are the bed and tailgate. Pedal cluster will be the same. I would go with the 80-82 style cluster as I prefer the bolt on clutch cable to the 83/84 style mounting with the clips. Make sure you get the right year of clutch cable to go with the assembly you use.

Oil pressure is VERY important to these engines, and if you value your rod bearings you'll use nothing but an OEM replacement for the oil pump. Dealer is expensive, but the OEM part can be found from discount houses. Under NO circumstances should you consider an aftermarket for the oil pump on a subaru.

On the older soobs (EA81 in my case), I remove the radiator (very quick), and just pull the engine forward. Loosen the pressure plate bolts prior through the starter hole, and then it's cake. Drop the exhaust, unbolt the engine mount (two nuts), and jack the engine up. Support the tranny on a jack stand, and pull the engine forward with the room left over from pulling the radiator. You'll have enough room to get everything in there. Leave the PP bolts loose enough that you can move the plate around by hand, and remate the engine/tranny. Tighten the bolts through the hole once it's together. Don't even need an alignment tool. I've replaced the clutch and flywheel in my Brat this way, and pulled many from the JY this way as well when I need a flywheel or whatever. So the answer is yes, it can be done, and it's the smart way to go if you can get away with it. Sometimes pulling the engine is good too. Easy way to do it is with a short peice of chain from you local hardware store, and wrap it over a 7 or 8 foot length of 4x4 or 4x6 structural lumber. You and a friend can lift the engine out with this setup.

Sounds like you need to have a look at the accelerator pump on the carb - it enriches the mixture when accelerating off idle. If it does not function, then you'll get exactly the stumble you describe. If the carb has been apart, then good chance the little plastic ball bearing that acts as a check ball was lost and not replaced causing the pump to not function at all. Seen that before. Or the pump seal could be worn down from use. Either way a rebuild kit will have both parts for about $30 at most parts stores. Take the top off the carb and check under the long spring in the accelerator pump bore - the check ball is at the bottom - it's usually black or red plastic. Verify the float settings at the same time as stumbling could be due to improper settings. When reassembling make sure to check the float needle operation as they sometimes get worn and can stick in the open or closed position - best to replace those with new parts as well from the kit.

Try www.cvaxles.com They can rebuild yours if they can't get you one from their stock.

Tabs are only welded on one rail - outer is bolted to the seat just like the subaru seats. I made the tabs pretty good sized and bolted them to the rail. Only welds are to the seat because there is no room for a bolt head - too close to the rail. The tabs are short and fat, and the welds are deep.

The EA81 seat rails are weak - they break where the rail is spot welded to the adjuster. I welded it with a couple bolts (heads cut off) on either side of the rail for strength. No trouble with them now.

Hhhhmmm - don't remeber the year off-hand. Late 80's I think are all similar. The install is pretty easy - remove the seat rails from the seats, and bolt the outer subaru rail on.... The inner rail has to be moved out slightly to match up to the floor. I just welded some tabs on to move it out a bit.

Most problems like this can be traced to the carb - needs to be taken down and have the float, choke, and accelerator pump serviced. Replace the upper gasket - blow out all the passages and it should be good to go. Check for vac leaks too while you are in there. Make sure the bowl vent isn't plugged, and the charcoal canister is good still.

Not true - there is the feedback carb version that DOES use the signal from the thermosensor to adjust the fuel mixture. However, these type of sensors have two spades, not just one.

You can do the quarter trick, and put one in the fitting for the pipe that goes from the AIS valve to the head - but if you really want to do it right, unscrew the pipe from the spacer on the head, cut the pipe to remove the end, and weld it up with some filler (I use a fender washer of carefully selected size) to make it a plug instead. Then it can all just go away. Or to avoid the welding, remove the spacers, and get an EA82 y pipe instead. The AIS serves to bring in fresh oxygen to the cat. It's needed to make the catalyst work. Basically useless unless you care about such things, or want to pass emmissions. Introducing the oxygen also makes it backfire more easily - really have to get after the leaks in the exhaust, and make sure the mixture and timing are right to prevent afterburn in the muffler.

FPCU is located under the driver's side dash. Attached to the mount that holds the hood release cable. It's usually black or greenish in color. There are two types depending on if the engine is feedback or not. Pump should not run unless engine is cranking or running - it's the job of the FPCU to determine if the engine is running or not. They are not well known for going bad, but it's possible, or there could be a problem with the signal for it to run the pump. Shouldn't matter tho - the engine should still start after enough cranking since the pump is running with the crank circuit. Then the engine would die a few seconds later as the fuel flow ceased. This is not your symptom so perhaps the pump is actually bad. Try replacing with any decent aftermarket carb pump and see what you get. I like the Carter pumps myself.

If you are sure the carb is good, start looking for a vac leak. Classic symtoms. Spray around with some carb cleaner to see if you can find the leak - idle will increase and smooth out when you spray it near the leak.

If you think that's easy, try an EA81. I still swear at EA82's now and then.

Yes - and the one in the manifold is ONLY for the dash guage. Check the connections for the fan and the thermo-switch in the rad - they are near the battery and are often pretty nasty.

There is a little plastic check ball about 1/8" in diameter that is easy to lose when you open the carb. It's the check valve for the accelerator pump. Without this the pump will not operate at all, and acceleration will not get enough fuel. It's at the bottom of the pump under a spring. Check the float level too, and make sure it's not binding.