bheinen74

save those for the jumpseats lol?

early failure. manufacturing flaw perhaps, possible sign the bearings are shot, bad struts, bad tires, bad alignment combination of any/all of these etc.....too many potholes in the road, etc. this is not a good thing though if they were new. I put new ones on my Brat, so i hope they last a lot longer, but i better go check. got mine from the place we all rockauto. even though they have been replaced recently, if antiseize was used i would say they will remove okay, but never know with one iowa winter, they could be rusted in no time. Poor Guido. fix him

People don't put a fuse in the fwd fuse holder to save on gas. The amount saved on gas would be eaten up by the transmission replacementas a result Either the previous owner or their mechanic thought the fuse was missing in there so they put it in. Or the tranny is toasted and it had torque bind This is fixable but can be pricey. This is a great car but with high problems of head gasket failure which is why they are seemingly being sold so cheap Let us know what you find

these are a booger to replace on midwest cars, that pinch bolt is well, stubborn. start blasting it with PB blaster NOW. and every day for a few weeks. you could get the car on craigs mick found, but it is actually missing the ball joint so thats a no go.

Dennis where are you, yours backfires or did you fix that?

You are looking at the factory speaker mount location. there never was air coming out the vents, notice the vents are rigid, solid in there, they don't rotate side to side. leave it as it....

"Refunds: Refunds for pre-registrations will be granted until September 1, 2009 There are no rain dates for this event. No refunds will be made at the event. If it rains, the owner of Timber Ridge will not allow trail use." hope it doesnt rain....

they are not rare, i got 2 in Iowa bfe how about pole for those with no rust.??????

don't forget the other 5g to get a drivetrain to hold up to it.

i was at the Subaru dealership last night to drop off my bro:grin:ther with his Outback for service, I was in my Brat, and I looked into the 2004 outback they had on the lot and said, hey, that has the same seats as my Brat.......

are you sure its the ball joint, and not the tie rod end joint?

now back to the rolling tool boxes. snap-on used would be good.

my 85 brat my 83 GL wagon my cam is lost. both are tans heres a old pic http://s405.photobucket.com/albums/pp132/bheinen74/rescued%2083%20wagon/?action=view&current=IMGA3891.jpg

its only a short matter of time and the prices on the BRATS will skyrocket. nothing to keep them from going up. good gas mileage, fun, smart can go anywhere attitude....etc....... thats a steal

the numbers of 150 150 130 130 make me say the timing is off, and the test guage reads a little low, maybe the accuracy of the comp guage tester is at question as well. .

Subaru has about the easiest alternator change of any car. I can do the EA alternator replace in about 3 minutes and ej take me about 6 mins from start of pulling old off to having new one on, belts included. reason it takes double time is the belt guard cover. CAKE.

yes. but at 4000 RPM it makes like 5 hp and 5ftlbs torque it grows to like 6 hp at 4500 heck it will make 1000hp at 25000 rpm. 13b, 12a yay

Will describe my fix for a guage that reads empty after a fillup, but then after about half tank or less reads correct until empty again. Run car til the tank is nearly empty disconnect the 2 wires to the sender carefully, mine were pretty corroded and took some persuasion to disconnet Remove the 5 nuts that are 8mm in size, set side carefully pry off the sending gauge have pan ready in case some gas drips out, park so the front is lower than the back before doing this twist out the lever, float and senor remove the 2 smaller phillips screw holding the cover around the sensor bend up the 3 tabs around the cover pry off the cover check electrical contact, which mine had some slop in the pivot causing it to not make contact when float at top there is a washer and spring mechanism, i rotate the washer to the worn portion was tighter. carefully slightly bend the bracket, not the contact point but the braket to it makes firmer contact assemble install die-electric grease on the connectors for wiring fill up with gas, have working gas guage. yay

That BRAT is nice That RS is nice. Sweet

1. on a 5spd 5mt tranny, is there a way to make it a FWD only if you remove the driveshaft, or will it just try to transfer power to the back instead of front axles 2. Could you make a 5mt JUST RWD, by taking out the front axles, or would it also be the same going to see about what it would take to turn my 92SS into a dirt track or figure 8 car, since the body is rusted beyond repair, i think this would do just fine in those races and they dont have awd or 4wd classes.

what about my 92ss legacy, put a welded rear in there, it might do okay. its getting replaced any day now, so it needs to be beat on.....i could care less as long as it makes it back home running, body is rusting apart.

got denied however i tried the trade... expensive tires and wheels were even in with the deal, and the person said no....... okay, so i am working on getting something else, got to replace the rusty stuff with non rusty this fall....watch my updates. something new will be in my drive soon, maybe even a NEW subaru but i will have to swap 1 of my 2 ej22t's in whatver i get.

running on highway shows 45 idle at stoplight about 27 cold start goes to about 70 or so til warm

I live 7 miles from Brooklyn.......