bheinen74

exactly.. thats why i mentioned T belt. And this thread is making my head hurt. you could have a igniter bad, a coil bad, but i SERIOUsLY DOUBT the engine has something wrong with it. These will run like poo with a forgotten vacuum line. If I was near you I am sure i can do a better job than who has been trying to get your car going. This just does make my head spin....

I am betting something is being done wrong on your end of the install, whatever. First off, what did the engine come with? intakes, injectrs, t-belt, etc...or are you putting the T belt on etc.

Like said, the 1.00 oring seal at the bottom of the resevoir is where they usually bleed pink stuff from down onto the top of the engine. There is also washer gasket on the top side, and the oring on the bottom side.......cheap, easy to replace.

That won't work. Tire shops around here would have to special order anything on this old of Subaru, and there is no way to special order for a car that they dont have in the books, can't order parts for a car they don't have listed in the books. It would take a board member here to order them for Ben, and ship to him. And, it looks as if center caps are now options on a DL, and your will not have them Put a Llama somewhere

Front Warn 1200 lb Winch Rear Warn 1000 lb Winch ummm, yeah whatever, is he going to try and pull a lawnmower out of the ditch with that crap.

http://desmoines.craigslist.org/tls/1271010135.html he wants a 4wd truck..

this in not a good idea. leave the centers off for now. there should be a way to make them fit by modding the centers dont use washers on a wheel mount

Ever since i got my BRAT about 2 years ago, its had the oil pressure guage pegged to the top when the engine is running. When i busted the oil pump housing, and replaced it with a McBrat extra pump, his came with a oil sending unit so i left it on, and same thing, high pressure just like the other pump. I recently ordered a sending unit from the rockauto closeout, and installed it today. yay. oil pressure shows about 70 when start the car cold, when running on the road about 60 or so, and at idle about 30 or so..when warmed up. seems about right. now i just need to fix my gas guage sender......then a few more things and my project Brat is complete...

no longer need the Weber add to list, original Gen 2 roll bar. something for my spare ej22t to go in. rebulder Baja.

looking good. wonder if yours rub, cause my 205/75/15 Baja AT's still like to rub and i did trim a little.

motor is perfect and has newer clutch, so i am keeping both.

kitty hair yay.....

going to make a decision on the partout of my 92SS...... body is probably beyond repair with rust out. Interior very clean, well taken care of by all owners I even still have the window sticker. Going to try and find a non rusty one to switch some parts over to. What kind of parts do people need? obviously I would keep the 5mt and the engine bits......but up for grabs would be all else.... hate to do this, but its just looking pretty bad with rust and the holes are getting large, windshield cracked. even the trunklid has rust holes on it. about to turn 158k.

easy mistake: "I put on an ACT flywheel, pressure plate, and street disc". easy fix Put on a stock clutch, stock flywheel, and stock pressure plate.

probably need to lessen the tires pressures to let the tires and shocks behave somewhat better. High tire pressures mean the shocks have to do more of the softening. Try going to 31 psi give or take 1psi. that will decrease highway gas mileage by about 2.5mpg or so, but it will prevent extra shock wear, and greatly soften the harshness and bumps..

The type of tires you have, and the air pressure levels can greatly affect the ride harshness. What kind of tires are you running? Tire pressures? oh, and whats the surface of logging road? dirt, gravel, sand, rock, etc we just have paved roads, mostly gravel, and some level B unmaintained roads this part of the US

Thanks for the space.

or kaboomb like they all are doing.

my brothers 99 obw was having hte 5/6 second delay when placing into D before the gears would fully connect with engagment. I told him about this fix. His fluid was in nice fresh shape looking, pink, clear, no burn etc. We drained some ATF out of the pan, and added the can of Trans X and drove for about 10 miles. It was a little slow still that night on engagement but seemed a little better. But then he parked the car. It sat for a few days. Next time he drove it, he reported it was fine. Will report back in for a confirmation on this fix on his.

The side electrode is missing. not good. The gap is not set correct either good luck.... how long ago did you purchase car? any warranty on previous work? might need a lot of inspection and such of looking for the electrode, hoping darn certain it didnt get eaten by your EJ. It is probably best to not let EJ's injest such. Oh, a helicoil will fix the thread damage in the head, but i hope you didnt let it eat the tip.

SOA almost made one worse, but not quite.

there's a certain board member here who grenaded the #4 on a 78 Brat.

its a Brat. I saw the other pics, on a post here. again, dont show the pics, i would rather you stab my eyes out. disgusting to see a burned bbq BRAT.

i always just unplug the fuel pump connector up under the frame, start car, run until it dies, doesn't take long. same if on the legacy, but its connector is on top of the tank thru access cover on passenger side.

seeing this picture is worse than having someone stab me in my eyes with a burning pitchfork repeatedly. POOR burned BRAT. what did you do with the carcass? Maybe the floor supports could be used to revive my parts Brat..