bheinen74

Well, on Sunday I completed more of this, got the front brake extensions on, BFH'd banged the humps to clear the struts, the front upper strut extensions installed, a AC bracket to hold the compressor instead of a board and metal tube holding it up. Got the lower radiator hose trimmed and fastened. Also made a make-shift "lightweight aluminum support bar that now holds the skid plate back on. It will be the perfect model for something more beefy, or else I can reinforce the flimsy ness of this one. I am not going to be happy with the \ / of the front tires, it is not as bad as _> \ / but it is enough I am not going to like the way it wears tires or bearings. I also noticed SJR went to the same style as mine for the extenders (is there another company that make a proper extender for the EA81 Brats?), was hoping they still had the one piece alloy ones, so I am going to be looking for advice on that. As it sits, the lift plates pull the top of the struts in at the top, to the point they are almost rubbing the outer frame, i did bash them in some. So, with the camber as it is, i do not see an easy fix, as the struts are already inward at the top about as much as possible. I could be overlooking something. Still need to buy a longer top radiator hose to clear the snorkus, as i don't want to hack off the cold air vacuum of it. Have not purchased tires yet.

It looks like the best option to me for shifter workability for all gears is to heat bend the shifter shaft lever. I think with a torch down below, heat the middle, and have someone inside slowly bend to normal position while its all heated up, so neutral is back to where it once was. I took the interior trim cover off and still cannot hit 2, 4th, or R., and it looks like with a 2 inch bend it will be okay but I am not fully sure? Yeah, definitely the rust-free ness of this Brat helped on all the bolts coming loose with nothing breaking, no captive nuts coming loose or cross threaded bolts, etc. It was the oil leakage mess that was the worst which caused big dirtyness. Everybody, Mick is a terrific helpful hand, and he gave up a whole day, drove the distance, and was the kind of help that I needed. I want to thank him very much. Even his boy helped keep tools near us when we couldn't quite reach them. Looks like we are almost done adding this to the many already lifted rigs.

Mick and I worked on it about 6 or 7 hours. He had to take off, cause it was getting on into the evening. I still have the front strut spacers to put in (i worked on it for a few after mick left, no luck) I may have to get different front tower spacers. Stuff to finish up: rear exhaust hangs down. shifter housing needs mod'd or the slop shifter fix need a longer curved top radiator hose shorten bottom hose tigthen steering joint bolts put on front brake extensions reattach AC bracket I have yet to make, but can make now i know what it needs tires and about a dozen other things.

well, here it all sits. 4 pics of the start of it all located here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=20565&cat=500&ppuser=14357 lift kit all ready to go in, painted in POR-15 Skyjacker Shocks Pugs that are about 3/4 the way to being polished to my liking. Rear LSD to go in soon too. So, yeah, my Brat sits, with the parts next to it. It is getting aquainted tonight.. and tomorrow they will be one.

yokohamas touring with 60k or 80k mileage

yeah, get a cheap harbor freight $8.99 come along, and find a sturdy tree, and start cranking that front back out. take a log chain, wrap around trunk of tree, hook in come along to chain, tie into holes in frame, crank it. throw in a radiator, top fluids. then trail it, or do like the aussies do and find a offroad arena and jump it around some.....posting on youtube

turbo wagon 94 has 180,500 on its ej22t turbo sedan 92 has 150,500 on its ej22t legacy L wagon with blown ej22 had 174,000, and the new one i got to replace it has over 200,000 i think. that is a total of 705,000 miles of ej22's in my drive. add in 121,000 on my brat ea81, and 61,000 for my civic D16 and i have approaching 1 million miles on my cars.

Ben. Those are the wheels that were on craigs 4 or so weeeks ago. I would have got them, but I found my pugs to complete my set. For 50.00 bucks, you can't go wrong just drill the hole in the wheel to match the 2 lugs on the subie. Those will look nice, and you will easily find a tire size to work that is not too $$

around here they are starting to pick up on numbers. I remember growing up in iowa never seeing subies. Then moved to Colorado, they were all over, and that is where i bought my first subie, and second subie. Then came back to iowa, and have bought a few more. But, take for example, a search on Craigslist. go to Denver craigs, and search Subaru, you get tons and tons of hits, same for seattle, portland, etc. but then do a search here in Iowa, and you might get 3 or 4 subies in like 2 months. its the same for getting parts at the junkyards here. They might not have any. And you need the part real bad, so to all the members here who have shipped parts off to us here in the midwest, thanks, you got us the part the only way possible. Big thanks.

the rollover check valve should have cut off fuel supply before any damage could have been done..notice i said should.

What do you guys (and gals) think i should choose when getting my tires mounted for my soon to be lifted Brat? White letters out to be seen, or mounted in? tires I decided on are Peerless Baja Widetrack A/T 215/75/15 cause they are cheap at 67.95 per, +the mounting/balance, and they are available in the town i work so i don't have to drive 60 miles to get them.

its probably the dipstick o ring where the dipstick tube mounts to the tranny. There is one 10mm bolt holding the clamp on at the tranny, and one bracket further up. the o ring is like 50 cents. and some dealers might charge 400 to do this job, i suggest a second opinion. if it is a leak at the wire, i would try some permatex around it to see it that seals it up

good luck on getting rid of the wind noise after he "sprung" the window glass.

my favorite junkyard charges 100 buck a ej22 if you pull it, and thats AS IS NO WARRANTY figured if the one i pulled today is no good, i will just go get another one. I might start hording the lower mileage engines for my future plans to acquire all the outbacks around when they blow the HG, and i can swap/flip them.

i agree, the pattern when they do spray is less the perfect. -when i got my Brat, no spray. So I unclogged them with tiny fine wire made to unclog the crud build-up -they worked for a couple days then stopped -clogged again, and this time the washer pump and resevoir jug was full of crud too. apparently 22 years had done a number on the seal around the pump to the tank, and it was dissentegrating and clogging my nozzles. -fix, remove the old gasket, put in a similar rubber seal my dad had laying around. -no more clog, just piss poor pattern of spray hmm, this may be a worth while thing to mod.

and some lsd gear oil. and some grinding of the pumpkin

thanks Mick i knew you could help. so i need ring gear with S39:10 lol and new gasket for access cover and bolts for holding the ring gear to the LSD and stub bolts and stub covers/seals and the bolts for them stub covers. This will be fun but very doable, i have time i hope. got a pic of that special socket for the stub bolts? I think my dad prob has the tool if i know what it looks like. oh, and yeah i want to keep my existing open diff complete and intact, in case this doesnt pan out so well....

what is the ratio of a ring gear stamped S37:10 DB 7 11 16 . . also, what is the recommended gasket or sealer for the rear diff access cover plate?

if it got any or combo of the roof, A pil, or B pil, or lower rocker it could almost be a total.

rockauto.com is a place for cheap h2o pumps, they have pretty quick shipment too, its the cost of shipping that is the downfall. otherwise, http://www.1stsubaruparts.com/ the above places will be cheaper or about the same as going to the local parts place, and have them order it, mark up the price. etc...

could be fuel pump buzz vibration

ive got one from a 93/94 leg, should be the same. 12.75 plus 4.85 ship

i would leave the water pump til the 150k change. they are meant to last that long last i recall (that applies to oem, not aftermarket pumps) I would wait til the HG's go anyways to do the pump. btw, a oem pump should easily get double the life than an Oreilly pump. So, you should get another 80k out ofr yours, but the O'reilly specail maybe only 60k to begin with.

does anyone know if hella makes a direct fit sealed beam headlight for out gen 2 brats?

front axles have to "turn" when you steer. rear axles stay straight, totally different......