bheinen74

yes you can swap the blocks, but the heads, water pump, exhaust stuff, and intake/injectors you have to keep from the turbo motor. but you need to get over to legacycentral before you go this route. the turbo block is "gold" and the non turbo block is "salt"

it is usually good advice not to purchase electronic items on ebay.

hold on a sec on getting another engine. What is wrong with the current block first? You do know that is the Best Block subaru ever made, period. If it has a hole in it, then yeah...but it could just need seals, bearings, etc. Would be wiser to fix that block if it can be done. the folks over at http://bbs.legacycentral.org/ will be glad to help you decide this one.

yep 91 si. i still got the Colorado title and way expired CO plates on that one.

first pic of my other baby for a while..it just shows i want everthing to be perfect...especially on the Brat

yeah i just don't want to spend xxx on the lift kit and wish i got a 2" instead. trying to put 15" pugs on and NO bashing,/ NO CUTTING anywhere on my pristine car.

i have a brand new water pump on now...single pulley style so that would waste the 15.96 i spent (got it on special closeout price) on my water pump. I think, maybe you might be right, if i Raise up the AC compressor enough to clear the lower radiator outlet, then it might work....with the 4" lift also, can you tell, i am ANAL when I plan ************ like this. I am anal in the way i keep my cars too (otta see my 91 civic Si hatch with 71,000 miles, it might have less i am guessing)

yes the AC compressor needs to stay within 1/2" of stock, but, when the crossmember, and engine drop the 4". it lowers the guide pulley (on engine) and it will make the AC belt, attached to the crank pulley, drop so the Belt inteferes with the lower radiator output for the hose.

these 2 pics show the clearances stock form. the lower radiator outlet might interfere once the engine drops the 4" with the guide pulley, and mostly the belt. i think a 2" lift might be more do-able

the other side has the air cleaner for the craptachi carb, and most imporantly the BATTERY.

hence why the photo on the above link has no belt on. I am starting to think that my brat will not get a 4inch lift but instead a 2"....sigh

i say drop it out too. but first get 4 jackstands and get the car up about 1 to 2 feet higher than normal...... remove flexplate bolts first at the little access hole on top right . disconnect engine bolts, starter, shift linkage, dogbone, both electrical wiring, speedo cable, and CV Axles. now remove the driveshaft, maybe exhaust mid pipe. then remove the tranny mount bolts to the subframe and it will come right out.

very nice car there.

great, now show me it with the belt on the compressor so i know for sure the belt will still go on, and then i am golden..

Final question on lifting a Brat. My Brat has working AC. Doesn't look like the engine can be dropped, it looks like the AC compressor will hit the frame rail, area by the jack mount. No I don't want to ditch AC just for a lift. I am KEEPING the AC over a lift. Anybody confirm? maybe only do a 2" lift, i wanted a 4"

simple. yank the engine put in ej22 never pull the engine again for some stupid "ej25" problem once you got the ej22

my wagon does the same in this cold weather. in fact, for the last 3 years when it gets this cold it squeels for 5 secs.

rollbar for me?

do 95 legacy front lights/fenders, etc interchange with 99 outback? I know the bumpers are styled different and hoods scooped, but what years interchange with my 95

the speedo gear swap does not require splitting the case. you can just remove the axle, then remove the bolt for the bearing retainer, then unscrew the passenger side retainer, and pull the bearing. Then you have to pull the stub. The speedo gear will slide right off. no need to open the case, i did this with my 94 turbo leg, and the tranny was still in the car. there are a couple of large o-rings that will need replaced. don't do this unless you are familiar with diffs. must measure tolerances, by a similar method as needle settings. mark the current setting on the retainer, count the turns in until bottom out. unscrew. when it goes back together, do the same number of turns from bottoming out.

is anybody making a bumper such as this? i want sign me up

blower motor fans are kinda like excercise wheels for pet rodents....they do like their excercise and a warm protected place to burrow into, and the blower duct tunnels are fun for mice, rats, etc.

i can't wait to find a wrx or sti for cheap in the next few years with the blown up motor. .... to put in my EJ22T motor(s) from my 94 turbo leg, or my 92 turbo leg. My 92 will be rusted all apart but good by the time i find one with a blown motor, my 94 has no rust yet really. course the brat will be jealous, so maybe the brat will get an ej22t

85 is the best year: last year for jumpseats, first year for the motor not needing lifters adjusted every 15k course, 82 is best cause it had the cyclops, i need a 82 too

on my 94 leg turbo wagon, the washer fill bottle for the back wiper is above the left rear tailight. open the back hatch, and look above the drive tail light for the fil cap.