bheinen74

always take an ej25 for test drive of 10-15 minutes, and pop the hood while engine is running -warm, and check into the overflow for ANY bubbles. If you see any bubbles, then the headgasket has failed.

while you are at it, buy the Subaru BRAT timing belt tensioner sold here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Timing-Belt-Tensioner-STANDARD-BRAT-RX-XT-GL-DL-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem483375191dQQitemZ310100957469QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_6195wt_1088 and dont forget the bolt on turbo kit for bRat as seen here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Brat-T3T4-TurboCharger-Turbo-Kit-/350419476022?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5196a0de36 and for even more power buy this Brat turbo kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Subaru-Brat-T3T4-Turbo-Charger-Kit-/350296212317?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item518f48035d

hardly see any rust. por-15 is good but it wont stick to slick smooth for very long.

probably the strongest and most well built engine subaru ever made. Things under there get brittle like glass, all hoses, rubber lines etc, electrical wiring for sensors. All due to the turbo heat. The engine will not have issues internally if maintained, but plan on new hoses for most everything including coolant and vacuum lines crossover, breather hoses etc. I have seen them with 400k miles and still going strong with those types of upkeep. non interference design, parts are shared accross the non turbo model for the most part. i enjoy all of mine previous, present, and future.

paint booth time

yes my paint booth is the bathroom. -when its 5 degrees outside and windchill of -20, projects have to be brought into the house. -preparing the bumper with some primer/sealer at this point.

They are made of pretty soft stuff, not hardened, and like said, it can be straightened if you do it carefully.

ooops wrong section. could be your cam seals. you could pull off the plastic timing belt covers and look in at the cams and i hope the Tbelt is not oil soaked.

there are 2 fuses for ABS, one is under the hood in the fuse box and one is behind the cover to the left of the steering wheel. did you check both fuses? An ABS fault on the 2005+ will disable your cruise as a safety function. Once you fix ABS the cruise will work again,

I do think maybe the solenoid could have gotten ruined so ask for the old one back on that. I will buy the old clutch discs from you if they are still iike new, those are worth something or someone else on here would gladly buy them. Maybe the piston seal is bad on the transfer clutches that is possible too and it could have gotten torn up.

the key info here is its an insurance claim, that makes sense now, they will make out big on this on labor and parts. I hate insurance.

nothing you are saying here makes ANY sense. If it was like new, then why did they replace it with new. I bet you are getting screwed on the bill for this unneeded stuff. Go someplace else for a second opinion, and FOR SURE ASK for all old parts they replaced back, cause i doubt they will install new parts, but will charge you for stuff they didnt do.

i have it up to 8.7 volts today which is .7 more than yesterday. not looking like it is good. its s deep cell battery so i guess it is possible it was deeply dishcharged i dunno.

you could probably go to europe and take one apart there and ship it over piece by piece. good luck if you got time and money do it.

just a thought, maybe they tried to steal the whole car and it wouldnt start for them with screwdriver, and maybe someone about caught them so they ran off quick. get a club. does your ignition looked messed with.

If all you keep in your car is the AM/FM stock radio, and nothing else, then probably nobody would mess with it ever. thats sucks. all for a jacket is pretty crazy. some homeless person looking to stay warm most likley.

vc = viscous coupler? that assumes the equation = manual transmission. transfer clutch = automatic. i think i would get a new shop who is familiar with subaru terminology.

coool. like to buy these timed wrong and fix.

The fuse is not supposed to be installed. you need to take the fuse out. the fuse is for diagnostics trouble shooting the torque bind issues, or if the car was having problems, such as duty C solenoid. Having the fuse in there for long time could have burned up duty C. Lots of idiot owners put a fuse in there cause they think its supposed to be there. NO NO. you will not get a AWD light with the fuse removed. But you should get awd back with it removed. You sould remove fuse, and have all four corners of the car supported on jackstands. once on jackstands on all 4, put the car in drive and see if the rear wheels are turning. You could also theoretically find a snowy ice patch road, and have someone watch the back tires for spinning action when you mash the gas pedal from a stop. report back what you find. and we will go from there. and, are all the tires exact same sizing, with same identical wear?

so i use my good battery like this can i use set of jumper cables to hook them together? I "assume" this battery had to be good, since the car was running and driving before the front accident and then it went to auction site. Like a ghost story, sometimes the seemingly dead really aren't dead at all. The same may be true for your over-discharged AGM battery. In time, AGM batteries, including OPTIMA batteries, may fail. Failures are typically caused when a starting battery is used in a cycling application, in which a deep cycle battery is the better choice. Okay, so now you have a seemingly bad AGM battery, you attach it to your charger and…CLICK. The charger won't even charge it! "It must be a bad battery!" you exclaim. Or is it? In many cases, OPTIMA batteries that are assumed to be bad may actually be perfectly fine, just deeply discharged. The great thing about AGM batteries, including OPTIMA Red Top® and Yellow Top® batteries, is that they have incredibly low internal resistance. This allows very high amperage output and for the battery to accept a charge very quickly. An AGM battery, with its low internal resistance, may stump car guys because sometimes it doesn't work like a traditional flooded lead acid battery. Here's the problem: most battery chargers have built-in safety features. A traditional battery that's at 10.5 volts or less is seen as defective, having either a short, a bad cell or some other defect. The charger "knows better" than to charge a defective battery because the results could be unsafe. But the fact is the AGM battery is just fine; it has simply slipped below the minimum voltage threshold of the charger and the charger doesn't know what to do with the battery. Here are three options for bringing that fine AGM battery back to life. So grab your jumper cables and charger and…CLEAR! Recovery Option #1: The Best Solution – AGM-Specific Chargers The best method for recharging a deeply discharged AGM battery is to purchase a modern charger that has kept up with battery technology. Many chargers now have AGM-specific settings and de-sulfation steps that help recondition and recover deeply discharged AGM batteries. These are becoming more common, and they work well for all lead acid batteries. They have the additional capability of doubling as a battery "maintainer" for vehicle storage. Some come with additional wiring to permanently attach leads from your battery to an accessible spot on your vehicle. This makes it easy to hook up when you store your car, truck, boat or RV. OPTIMA Batteries does not officially endorse specific chargers—we simply don't have the time to test all of the excellent chargers on the market. There are a few that our customers and staff have tried and liked. You can contact OPTIMA Batteries Customer Service at 888-8-OPTIMA (888-867-8462) or via email at info@optimabatteries.com for charger recommendations based on different applications. Recovery Option #2: The DIY Solution This is a recovery method for the do-it-yourselfer using the equipment you've got in the garage. With this option, you're going to trick your charger into charging the deeply discharged AGM battery. Here's what you need: Battery charger Jumper cables A good battery, preferably above 12.2 volts (It can be an AGM or flooded battery, it doesn't matter.) The seemingly dead, deeply discharged AGM battery A watch or timer Now, here's what you do: Hook up the good battery and deeply discharged AGM battery in parallel—positive to positive and negative to negative. Do not have the charger connected to the battery or turned on at this stage. Now, hook up the good battery to the charger. Turn on the charger. The charger will "see" the voltage of the good battery, and start providing a charge. After the batteries have been hooked up for about an hour, check to see if the AGM battery is slightly warm or hot to the touch. Batteries naturally become warm during charging, but excessive heat may be an indication that there really is something wrong with the battery. Also discontinue the process if you hear the battery "gassing"—a hissing sound coming from the safety valves. If it's hot or gassing, STOP CHARGING IMMEDIATELY! Check back every hour to see if the AGM battery has charged to 10.5 volts or above. If it has, disconnect the charger from the wall outlet and remove the good battery from the charger. Now, connect only the deeply discharged AGM battery to the charger. Turn on the charger and continue until the AGM battery reaches a full charge, or until the automatic charger completes the charge process. In most cases, the AGM battery will be recovered. Recovery Option #3: Enlist the Professionals If you don't own a battery charger, you don't want to make the investment, or you're not the do-it-yourself kind of guy, this is the option for you. Take the battery to a professional battery specialist who knows AGM technology. Most specialists are willing to provide "charge and check" procedures free or for a small fee. Auto parts stores are typically not capable of accurately determining an AGM battery's condition, and many use conductance testers that don't provide correct readings. Battery specialists like Interstate Batteries and other independent battery distributors are experts who can help determine if your battery is recoverable or not. I am working option 2 now. i dont have a agm charger and neareset optima dealer etc is not close.

it only read 7.5 volts after a day and half at 2amp. i left it on the 50 amp boost for a few hours and it is to 8.0 but as soon as i put the dmm on it, the 8.0 just continually goes down. I guess i will go drive it to the parts store and see what they will do. Its most likely more than 3 years old which it says 3 year free replacement. Now, if i get lucky, someone there will make me a deal trade or something. Too bad, so sad.

I am attempting to chaarge my optima redtop that came with the 94ss builder. it arrived dead, the parking lights virgin switch on the dash had been on all the time the car sat at auction for who knows how long. I had it on 2amp charge a day or more. only got 7.5 volts on the dmm. I read you need to charge it at 50amp or more. so i have the charger set on start, and am cycling r in charge for 15mins then letting the battery cool off and cycling that. any help maybe this battery is no good but i guess you have to force charge them.

Tribeca shares same bolt pattern as SVX and STi. Tribeca is H6 only.

the beam will stay together, its the mount bracket that is getting swapped to it.

dual blades cause lots more strain on the wiper motor and over time will cut its life short. too much friction with the extra blade. be careful with that type mod. you can read up on this on the google.