bheinen74

I like this thread. I always recommend buying used, as Shawn does, Snap-On. It is an investment, one can always selll for a premium a used Snap-On. Buy used Snap on for half off, use it, sell it for what you paid for it. I could not afford that, and bought some cheap "Stack-On by Remline" I would never be able to sell it for anything close to what i paid for it (200). If i could have, i would have bought Snap-On. Sears is usually good. Just know it is for you to use and keep, it has no marketable re-sale value after you are done with it. I did get a used Waterloo top box from Craigslist. wish i had the bottom half to it. wish i had money for this today http://desmoines.craigslist.org/tls/2111579401.html

someday....i will venture to tear one down and rebuild. thank you and bookmarked

"coolant reservour cap was off and it was low on coolant" do you mean overflow bottle cap was off? was it flipped up or was it missing. I could see it bubbling pressure and popping it off. That could explain it going low, if it is bubbling out and such. You need to open the hood of car after a drive, with it still running and look for volcano coming out of the overlow... report back your symptom relates more to the 96-99 era, not what we see on the 00+

have fun getting the rear right brake drum off:eek: thats one long trail of rubber, and a decent looking project too.

I do BET itis off on timing. seen it, others have seen it, i buy cars that way when others have had it triple checked etc. the last one i had shipped down had sworn it was not that.. his shop sworn it was not that either.-went thru new ecus, coils, mafs, plugs, ignitors, injectors, i got all the spare with the csr. he gave up on it and i got it for 530 bucks. Sure enuf. set the tining, drove it for a a few years sold it for my 1850. sold or used all the other parts on others.

why you think its tired? I have NEVER seen cylinder wear on a early ej22, EVER. True all the gaskets and rubbers turn brittle, but those are cheap to replace. Put all new seals and gasktets in it, new timing components, water pump, plugs wires etc,and run it another 500k miles. my 2 cents.

i saw the error 55 on my 06 outback the first time i tried to pull it into a non plowed parking lot, that was not 8 inches deep. I had to spin tires, front then back a few and got the code. after almost getting stuck in something my first gen legacies would have drove through with ease never needing reverse foward reverse. Due to it, i got a blinky cruise control light. Used a code reader, canceled it out and sold that pile of crap It was not safe on ice either. I will reiterate that nothing have failed on your car, but the engineers of that bastard year range model car. I dumped mine and bought an older one which is snow proof maybe you will do the same for those others that see a 2005-2009 outback on the road in snow/ice, STEER CLEAR that car will spin out at 40mph and be the death of anyone, steer clear of those year outbacks at all cost. if you dont believe me, then follow one and read the posts of this.

sure sounds like the non-subaru person changine a tbelt and having the timing off on it. I will almost put LOTS of money on that. I have come across at least 5 ej22 in the junkyards with brand new t belt, brand new idlers, brand new tensioners, and the timing was not set right.

you used the tick mark at the back of the gear notch, not the front right?

so you used the front lines on the cam pulleys, and lined the crank up to the notch. Do not use the cam arrows.?

you used the wrong marks for the timing belt install.

GD no. fisrt gen yellow plastic cover plans for its already split wating for my payment and sold. thse were only made for 91-94 and they only made abotu 1500 of these cars that had ej22t, with the piston squirters (these squirters on this block were all where they were suppsed to be not in the pan like other tails of this) already 3 people here stopped by and said "wow that has no wear after 194k miles) And another estimated it at 25k miles lol i lol'd at him and told him about this engine mileage at 194k. Someday these blocks will go for 3g a block....cheers

here, mid grade (89) always has ethanol 10%, low grade 87 has no ethanol for the most part here, and 91 and premium can have it, sometimes not. I never use the 89 ethanol, and am taking a chance on the 91. A few of my cars require premium. i do see 15-20% decrease in mileage of fuel with the ethanol, so i cant wait til it done for and not pushed in my state. Right now they push it and push for 15% and push for 20% and i sold my SVX recent due to the owner manual saying specifically in quote " do not use fuel any more than 10% ethanol due to damage to engine as a result" that was in my owners manual and that car did 27.5mpg ave on non ethanol and only 20 mpg on the crap with ethanol on 2 tanks i had no choice.

and a few hours later in the garage after a few hours i have this. ah those will go on my 94SS when its due someday, new tensioner, idlers etc. closed deck crosshatching, plastic separator plate :-\ box of trash?

Anybody got a guess?

Brats can be towed, but don't use them to do the towing. Can't give any smarter advice than that right there.

it should, if the original engine, be EA81 with Hydro lifters, a step up from the non-hydros of earlier years. Yours is better, no valve adjustments every 15k miles. Look for a silver sticker on the sides of valve covers stating this. 85-87 Brats had 74hp vs the 73hp of 84 and older due to valve upgrades. brent

like those wheels, and the impreza wagon with rear mid wing. black would look awesomer witha thin red line along the outer lip, kinda like hotwheels redlines

When installing new brake pads, Subaru caliper pistons must be screwed into the caliper and not just pressed in like most other cars. Pressing the piston n wihtout turning it will buckle aand thus ruin, the handbrake spindle inside the caliper-from my how to keep your subaru alive book

your new alternator could be bad, its not out of the question to get bad ones from parts stores.

just follow my instructions. You will need to replace the speedo drive gear and the speedo driven gear as a set. cheapo parts kindof get a new o=ring seal for the cap. The small gear is a little tricky to maneuver in there, it is a small place to work in but I was able to get it, think i ended up using long reach needle nose for the circlip install, while holding the gear into place with a screwdriver tip. a few times i dropped the circlip down into the housing before i finally got it. You will likely need to make some sort of bearing puller to get it started.

Are the ej22 and ej25 sohc timing belts the same? I have a used ej22 belt in near new shape, going to put it on my Baja engine if its the same?

thats the way it was designed. poor HVAC in the 05+ legacy/outback.

yeah i doubt that engine, if oil changed routinely, has many things to go wrong anytime in the next 200k miles. highway miles are baby mles. its the short trips round town that are harder on a car. 298k allhighway miles are like 150k avg miles.

how about DD (daily driving) as he says? we are not talking wheeling or rally, DD is about it