bheinen74

only if you disconnect rear driveshaft, 4 12mm nuts, bolts connecting the shaft to the rear diff.

depending on the laws there, you may just want to put on a set of hella 500's at the same level as the current lights. Subaru in general, did not research headlight beam quality when they design them..compared to about all other manufacturers, the headlight are as you describe.

swap the heater hoses around and check your heat. thats what was the matter on my BRAT. seems those valves are a one way and you should try to reverse the flow from how it is now. good luck report back.

tis the time of year for threads regarding heat. what year model make?

wow, those things rusted in half here at the frame after the box.. none of the last 40 i looked at had a solid frame, even tho they said it was ok, i saw daylight thru each frame rail and hit it with my flashligt bottom and chunks fell out. goot luck

oil pressure sensor...... its leeaking. so get a new one. end of thread.

I would say its best to just not mess with anything aftermarket on the ej25 engine subaru has machined. anything ea71, ea81, ea 82, and ej20, ej22 is maybe ok for junk aftermarket, but HELL NO for the ej25 which is a 100%+ failure even subaru can't get them right on ej25 so there is my .02 cents.

VLSD conversion, and install in the Legacy SS.

its done, and already in the car, worked on it late into the night. Did have to grind the ears off the case to fit it in. only problem is the muffler fell off when i dropped out the old one...it was a fart can and too loud anyway so this is my chance to quiet it up some.

after after

Hi Spiffy, nice. make spiffy happy and polish up those turd headlights.

if your knock sensor has a crack, it needs replaced, usually i say go with new, cause they all crack around 100k so getting a good used one is a crap shoot.

First off, check and clean out the drip drains for the sunroof the like to clog with crap over the years and so that could be all you need. if you have a factory sunroof, you would be BEST off by FAR, to source some new seals for it, from a Subaru dealer, i like to call jason at Mike Scharff, he can get you new seals.- thats if you got a factory one. There is no way you going to a custom shop is gonna work well, and be cost effective. those new seals might cost less than 50 bucks, worth the check, and should be easy to install. on your own on the headliner.

Forester Diff has been dissected, guts are out. since nobody has posted, I figured i will ask again. -Do i keep the carrier bearings on the vlsd chunk when i install it in my 3.9 94SS diff case? Or do i need swap carrier bearings to maintain the 3.9 carrier? going to junkyard tomorrow to get the axles, then I can pull the 3.9 from the car and put that ring gear on the vlsd chunk, then grind the 3.9 innard to fit the chunk. I found my grinder tool from when I did the lsd on my BRAT to grind the inside of the pumpkin, so I should be good to go. Next question, the vlsd is a sealed unit, meaning i just dump the normal gear oil in, no additives, that sound right. Need some answers, got 2 days of 65 degree days to get this done, before it goes to highs of 40. last warm enough weather to work in a non heated garage this week, then i am done til srping march/april thaw. brent

timing belt been replaced recently. sounds like it skipped a few off. no biggie, its a non interference year of motor.

IACV dirty. light greay round thing under where the coil pack connector is, also under some PCV vacuum line. hard to get to but not too bad. seafoam might help. check all vacuum lines too, you could have a leaking line somewhere.

walnuts:? "Kedge Grip: Our own unique blend of crushed (recycled) glass and crushed walnut shell particle blended into our full grade truck rubber. Kedge Grip acts in a twofold way; first the walnut shell is designed to come out leaving small (approximately 1 mm) size pits in the tread surface that will act as additional siping and create more traction edges to grip the road. The second is the crushed glass which is designed to stay in longer and create a gritty surface to help anchor you to the road. Does it really work? Don’t take our word for it, read some of the testimonials. Also, check out the 4Wheeler magazine (though under a different name that we are not allowed to use any longer due to trademark issues) in the August 2009 issue. They consistently had excellent results with our Kedge Grip." thats a first i would have never imagined.. price is right on sale now too. 142

I can go pull one monday, i plan to go to the junkyard that day. should be less than 15 bucks for the part, plus shipping. I do know they have multiple 92-94 legacies so I for sure can get you one. -brent

as far as i concerned all those 4eat to the svx were busted status from the factory, mine never made it past 40k and none of the other of 92 made it much further....why would anyone recommend him to use a original trans-they are garbagex10xea82x ej25 worst setup for a subaru EVER was the eg33 torque monster witha 4eat. subaru was way wrong.... back then needs a 6mt from sti and then good forever. that motor is non-interference, good for many million miles (helicopter/airplane/etc) and it is a torque monster, N/A, yeah turbo guys have to have psi to beat this sucker. love mine, 7.5 qt oil change is a bit much, but oh well.

<--- nice avatar wut happend

where are your bubbles? what car? what year? thanks bh

congrats, its looks stock keep it that way if you can, production number7 will be an investment over time as in will hold its value more than the others. Then, someday (if you keep it stock) it will go up in value. How many of these in 20 years will still be stock, or still around, and not wrecked?: none but this one is my hope will still be the same as today. good find. trade offerered for my BRAT, SVX, , and my brothers outback and dads forester, along with a pretty big sheepdog

as above, last week switched to snow tires, but what i didnt say was that i saw cords on the old summer tire, inner left front, all others were looking good. So, went over to see if dad could get out his alignment rack. first off, toe looked about .4 negative or so right tire had -.8 camber left tire had -1.8 camber spec says 0 to -.75 give or take .o2 decided to only adjust front left got it to about 0 decided to leave the right side as it was, since the tire on the side had shown normal wear. back over the toe machine. perfect dead on to 0 going to check tires soon and often for any wear -need to go get tires balanced, or re-attempt the bubble balancer. oh, changed oil in the SS also.

replacing the axle would cost alot less than renting a tow dolly... regardless, towing a brat in neutral is not really putting a lot of stress on any axles but you dont want it grenading on you going down the road at 70mph.